Heating a Mobile Home

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Bones
Posts: 3
Joined: Wed Mar 10, 2010 12:43 am

I am new to the forum and in need of brainstorming. I have a 6yr old 2100 sq ft mobile and this winter I went through 900 gal of propane and still going and that is with my thermostat set at 67. My bedroom never got above 62. I am Disabled, live alone and can't afford another winter like this one. I have thought about putting a pellet stove insert in my fireplace and installing the Thermostat with the blower control that uses my furnaces blower to move the air throughout the house. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Frack
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Robert
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Posts: 6413
Joined: Wed Feb 28, 2007 12:07 am
Location: Tennessee

Hi,

This is not a repair question, so much as a info post, so moving it to the Off Topic Forum.

Please follow it there.


I don't have any advice or info on pellet stoves, but others I'm sure will.


Thanks,
Robert
Some people are Humbly Grateful, while some are Grumbly Hateful.................... Which one are you ?
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Greg
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Posts: 5696
Joined: Wed Feb 28, 2007 8:01 pm
Location: Weedsport, NY

Hi & welcome. Many of us here use auxiliary heat. We use a Monitor Kero. unit, but there are many types of heat out there. A word of caution no matter what type you chose. The water pipes run under the home next to the heat duct, they are run there to keep them warm from the duct heat so they don't freeze. If you plan on using an auxiliary heat as your main source make sure that your underbelly is in good shape with no holes or tears. The skirting also needs to be 100% with no holes or gaps, you may want to think about insulating the skirting as well. Greg
"If I can't fix it, I can screw it up so bad no one else can either."
Lorne
Posts: 368
Joined: Sat May 19, 2007 7:57 am
Location: Murrells Inlet,SC

Before you spend a lot of money on a pellet stove I might suggest have your system checked for duct leaks and as was suggested, any openings in your skirting.

It is easy to lose a ton of heat through leaks in the ducting. Like the joints between the 2 halves of your home, if it is a double wide.

We had trouble heating ours and found that the cold air retun duch was too small, ours is an outside heat pump.
Do you have something like a Coleman, tall and narrow unit?
Is it is a seperate area, like a washer room?

You also might call a local heating company to see about an enerrgy audit and system check.

I just did a quick check for "Pellet Stove Inserts and it showed a $1700.00 black unit. A system check should be a whole lot cheaper and might help your problem.

hope these ideas help. I know what it's like to be ccccccold.
1987 Craftsman Double Wide 42x28,w/attached 28x12 foot enclosed porch/ re-shingled 2 yrs ago. Original exterior vinyl w/no sheathing.
joedirt63
Posts: 195
Joined: Tue Mar 02, 2010 9:57 am
Location: Pocono Lake, P A
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check the ducts.for leaks or blockage, mine had a ac unit removed and was never sealed i was heating the outside basicly. over time i found that the ducts from the main to the floor registers were not installed properly and leaked also, problem is if you can't go under the house to check you'll need some help.also ck air flow distrbution, my bed room was colder than the rest ,but is was further from the furnace also.
"a man has got to know his limitations", clint eastwood. " i haven't found mine yet," me
Bones
Posts: 3
Joined: Wed Mar 10, 2010 12:43 am

Thank you so much for the info. I had a company come out a couple of years ago and they went under and said all was fine, but I think I am going to go under. It is a double wide sitting on a concrete pad and the skirting is all intact but is not insulated. The master bedroom and bath are the farthest away from the furnace. I can't even use the bath in the winter and have to keep the faucets at a slow drip to keep from freezing. My furnace is in the laundry room (middle of house) and it is a Miller. I called the manufacturer to see if BTUs for this size house was correct and they said yes. When I use the heat pump for AC in the summer it can't keep it cool, so I think I need to check the duct work. Is that easy to get to as I have never looked under a mobile home.
Thank To You All!
Bones
joedirt63
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Joined: Tue Mar 02, 2010 9:57 am
Location: Pocono Lake, P A
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if there is no insulation that would be a problem, there should be a plastic type canvass material sealing the floor joists if it not there then the ducts should be easy to see,
"a man has got to know his limitations", clint eastwood. " i haven't found mine yet," me
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Robert
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Joined: Wed Feb 28, 2007 12:07 am
Location: Tennessee

Look for an about 12" to 14" flex duct running from one half of home duct to the other half. That is the cross over duct. Be sure it is not torn, kinked or sagging and is not on the ground.

Best to use all metal between two 90* ells or flex pulled tight between two 90* ells.


Thanks,
Robert
Some people are Humbly Grateful, while some are Grumbly Hateful.................... Which one are you ?
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Greg
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Joined: Wed Feb 28, 2007 8:01 pm
Location: Weedsport, NY

The fact that you have had freeze ups tells me that there is a problem and all is not well with the underbelly, the belly should be insulated well enough to prevent water line problems. I suspect from your second post that there is also a duct problem as well.

I think you need to "go downstairs" and take a good look around. Greg
"If I can't fix it, I can screw it up so bad no one else can either."
Bones
Posts: 3
Joined: Wed Mar 10, 2010 12:43 am

I want to Thank all of you for all the information you have given me. It will serve me well!
I think it is time to "Go Downstairs" and see for myself when the weather gets a little better.I will let you know the outcome.
Thanks,
Bones
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