can I use this beadboard?

beachpeach · Wed Mar 03, 2010 1:32 pm

Hello, I am buying a 1994 MH and want to put beadboard up the walls about 5 or 6 feet in the living areas. My idea was to buy the panels at Lowe's, but the HFH ReStore has real pine beadboard for about 16 cents a square foot!! I excitedly told my husband but he said we would need to put up 1x3's to attach it to (they are about 4 inches wide) and it would be so thick it would stick out past the door frames.

Can anyone think of a way to accomplish this, or am I just out of luck on this one? I want to be vertical, not horizontal. Thanks for your comments and suggestions, BP

Greg · Wed Mar 03, 2010 3:51 pm

How thick of bead board are you looking at? I used 1/4" in strips in the hall an used adhesive over the dry wall to hold it. Greg

beachpeach · Wed Mar 03, 2010 9:47 pm

The beadboard is 3/8" thick. The walls are those wallpaper covered panels that you typically see in a MH, with the strips to cover the joints. BP

Brenda (OH) · Thu Mar 04, 2010 11:36 am

If I may ask, why are you covering so much of the wall? in the homes I am fixing, that would put the bead board up 2/3 of the wall in height....

If you can live with 32 inch high and a trim piece, or 48 inches high and a trim piece, you could get the bead board paneling sheets, which are 4 feet wide, by 8 feet tall, and you cut them into 2 or 3 pieces each 4 feet wide. you then could either nail them or glue them or both. you need to hit the studs in the wall to get the best benefit from nailing... tapping the wall or pushing on it usually gets you close. these boards go up very easily... you can get very flat trim/molding to put over the seam edge if needed. trim out with the cap molding if possible, it fits the best...

try to nail in the groove, and set it in with a nail set if you are noticing the nails too much.

I hope you can find the material you want to get the look are after. I did the hallway in my apartment building with the beadboard paneling, and then painted it, and it really updated the area, and the tenants commented on how much better it looked than the wall paper that was on the lower part of the wall before the renovation.

Brenda (OH)

Brenda (OH) · Thu Mar 04, 2010 11:47 am

rethinking this....

for the real bead board...

could you have someone make floor molding and cap molding out of 1 x 3 or 1x4 that has just over 3/8 inch deep groove in it, install the floor molding by nailing it to the studs or the floor, put the bead board up with glue and dropping it into the floor groove, and nail the cap molding on the top?

this puts both ends of the bead boards behind a rim, so they are not likely to come loose, the molding will help keep the boards against the wall as the adhesive cures.....

or, experts, if this is the method, do you have to glue the bead board at all? could it float in the grooves like door panel insets used to float in the framing of a door? wouldn't that be cool if no glue were needed!

Brenda

beachpeach · Thu Mar 04, 2010 10:12 pm

Brenda, your idea for the real beadboard sounds pretty neat. Someone I spoke with today said how about using adhesive to put up four pieces (it's tongue and groove) then nail the fourth piece which should put the nails into a stud - 4 four inch pieces equals 16" on center. That sounded like it might be feasible, though I will not know if we have studs 16" apart until we get into the home. Anybody have any thoughts on either of these ideas? Thanks, BP