Roofing Repair Choices ?

Repair help for the do-it-yourselfer.
For mobile home parts, click here.

Moderators: Greg, Mark, mhrAJ333, JD

Locked
NickD

I have received bids on replacing the roof on a 28 x 40 MH which currently has composition shingles. The bid to replace is $1900 which includes hauling off the old stuff. The shingles would be Architecural type or standard 3-tab 20 year with 15 lb paper with 50% overlap.

He also quoted $2350 to replace with a metal roof where I would deal with the old stuff. The metal is CentralGuard with paint by Valspar, or Signature 200 with Siliconized Polyester coating. I am uncertain as to the manufacturer of either since their color sample charts make no mention of it. Both have 20 year limited warranty available by written request (?). Both are 26ga PBR panels.

The bids are from a handyman who has a lot of experience with MH's.

The home is in Granbury, Tx, 30 mi s/w of Fort Worth. It gets hot (100+ for 12 days so far this year) and the winters are some what mild. The home has cathedral ceilings and there are no vents in the soffits.

Your experience with either would be appreciated. Pros and cons?

Thanks,
Nick
User avatar
Jim from Canada
Posts: 551
Joined: Mon Mar 05, 2007 10:39 am

I just did my roof (see my album). I went with shingles (cost). If you have a low slope and want a metal roof, you need a "standing seam" roof where the fasteners are hidden. The price seems reasonable, but, I recommend at least 1 width of Ice/water sheild, and definitley recommend "grace" brand. I did my whole roof in Grace, it rained before the shingles were on and we had no leaks. The shingle is more or less decoration at this point, just keeping the UV from the Grace. Even though you don't have to worry about ice, it is good insurance. Remember, your roof protects everything under it!


Jim

Jim
User avatar
JD
Site Admin
Posts: 2696
Joined: Sun Feb 25, 2007 11:57 pm
Location: Fresno, CA
Contact:

Hi Nick,

Seems like your weather is very similar to my area. Here in Fresno, CA the sun eats comp shingles pretty quickly. With a standard mobile home shingle roof pitch being 2.5 to 3 in 12, the standard 20 year type shingle (some companies call them 25 yr) last most people about 12 years. The 35 year architectural types will last longer, but not nearly 35 years. The 20 year and 35 year ratings are based on average climate conditions on a 4 in 12 roof.

Personally, I think that the metal roofing would last longer and would also be a good candidate for a rubber coating when it has seen it's best years. Ames Roofing Products makes an excellent seam tape and undercoat/top coat products for metal roofs. I could see 40 years or more with proper maintenance and the re-roof with the rubber coating down the road.

I do agree with Jim on the standing seams. The CentralGuard roofing panels you mentioned (image below) are usually a face nailed/screwed product, resulting in many holes in the roof surface. They will usually use a rubber grommeted screw or nail and put them in the highs of the panels, but I do believe they eventually cause leak problems. You would really be depending on the underlayment to keep leaks out of the home. You might check with the contractor to find out if he has a different way to fasten the panels.

Image

The MBCI Signature 200 Series is actually the silicone polyester coating on the metal panel, but from my quick look, it seems to be sold on a LOKSEAM panel, which is a standing seam panel. (image below) You can see the way this panel hides the main fasteners that hold the panel to the roof. This would be my choice.

Image

One other benefit of the metal roofing in hot climates, the white is truly a "Cool Roof" system. With the cathedral ceilings, this may help keep temps down and energy costs lower.

JMO
JD
☯JD♫
Today is PERFECT!

All information and advice given is for entertainment and informational purposes only. The person doing the work is solely responsible to insure that their work complies with their local building code and OSHA safety regulations.
steve
Posts: 66
Joined: Sat Jan 05, 2008 2:16 pm

You might also take this oppurtunity to add rigid insulation to the roof deck before covering
User avatar
flcruising
Posts: 606
Joined: Mon Dec 03, 2007 2:18 pm
Location: Florida Panhandle

JD, the Signature 200 is strictly the finish. Here's the product catalogs both companies quoted. They do appear to have concealed fastener roof panels, but there's no distinction made. The contractor needs to give panel profiles and metal gauge in order to compare properly.

http://www.mbci.com/new/catalogs/res.pdf
http://www.mbci.com/new/catalogs/arch.pdf
http://www.centralstatesmfg.com/UserFil ... 0Guide.pdf

Forgot to add.
I also agree that light colored metal should be your prefered choice if the underlayment is done properly.
[color=blue]Aaron[/color]
User avatar
flcruising
Posts: 606
Joined: Mon Dec 03, 2007 2:18 pm
Location: Florida Panhandle

What I would also do is have him quote you the difference between the concealed fastener system with roof felt, and the face attached panels with ice & water shield. The water shield would 'self-seal' around all the fasteners, virtually eliminating the leak potential. The metal will probably be installed over purlins anyways, so there's actually two barriers to pass before water can enter the roof sheathing. (Another thing to verify with him.)
[color=blue]Aaron[/color]
NickD

Thanks for the replies!

The original quote on the metal roof is for 36" wide "R" panel which is similar to JD's pic of the Panel-Loc Plus, only 1-1/4" high. It is face fastened (screws). I like the idea of having the fasteners hidden if possible.

Looks like I need to clarify the details with the contractor.

Who carries the Grace ice/water shield? How is it installed?

flcruising: Please explain installing over purlins??

Nick
User avatar
flcruising
Posts: 606
Joined: Mon Dec 03, 2007 2:18 pm
Location: Florida Panhandle

Hidden fastener panels always adds to the cost. Both material and labor come out to more $. That's why you should have him quote the two systems described. Grace Ice & Water Shield can be purchased locally at most big box Lowes'/HD. It's more expensive than tar paper, but the roof becomes a completely sealed covering with just cladding of your choice on top like Jim described.

Purlins are simply horizontal runners (in your case wood 2x4s) that are screwed to the roof that elevates the metal roof panels above the decking. This creates an air space between them to allow moisture to escape. You can pretty much count on moisture getting under them, either by condensing on the back side or through wind driven rain. The purlins simply accomodate this and keep your roof happy.
The only downside; you must step on the purlins when walking around up there yourself if you want to keep it dent-free.
[color=blue]Aaron[/color]
User avatar
Jim from Canada
Posts: 551
Joined: Mon Mar 05, 2007 10:39 am

Most building stores will carry Grace. They may have to order it from one of their other stores due to lack of demand in your area. It is about 3x more for it than regular Ice/Water sheild, but apparentley, you can put a nail in it, take it out, and the hole will seal. I paid $130 CDN/ 60' roll. Dollars are about par now. Cheap insurance! Awesome thread too guys! Thanks for all the info!

Jim
User avatar
Yanita
Moderator
Posts: 3369
Joined: Sat Feb 17, 2007 10:16 pm
Location: Eastern N. Carolina

Hi Aaron,

I am a little confused here. Just need some clarification for myself or maybe other ladies reading that are not understanding this either.

In JD's post he said that the "MBCI Signature 200 Series is actually the silicone polyester coating on the metal panels." Upon a quick check of the sites I see where the manufacturer says the same.

In one of your post you say the Signature Series 200 is strictly the finish, this is where I get confused, could you please clarify what you are talking about as far as the finish, I thought the silicone polyester coating was the finish???

Yanita
The difference between success and failure is who gives up first!
User avatar
flcruising
Posts: 606
Joined: Mon Dec 03, 2007 2:18 pm
Location: Florida Panhandle

I see now how that could be confusing. I think my interpretation of this quote may be off too:
The MBCI Signature 200 Series is actually the silicone polyester coating on the metal panel, but from my quick look, it seems to be sold on a LOKSEAM panel, which is a standing seam panel.
I took that as saying that the Signature 200 coating is synonymous with the lokseam panel . But after reading it a few times, I think he was just pointing out that the finish comes on that panel profile, which would be the best one to choose. ?

Sorry if I confused anybody (myself included). I was trying to carrify that the finish the contractor quoted NickD doesn't necessarily mean he was getting the panels we described as the best to use.

I hope I didn't offend JD.
[color=blue]Aaron[/color]
User avatar
Yanita
Moderator
Posts: 3369
Joined: Sat Feb 17, 2007 10:16 pm
Location: Eastern N. Carolina

Hi,

Thanks for the clarification. For myself I never second guess what JD has to say about home repairs, but that is just me. I was not second guessing you either just needing clarification as I thought JD's post was very informative then it got confusing, LOL. A women thing I guess. :lol:

Jim from Canada..would like to thank you for all your contributions as well, the pics are worth alot for other members!

Yanita
The difference between success and failure is who gives up first!
Locked
  • Similar Topics
    Replies
    Views
    Last post