Continuing Saga: Help Needed New Tub Install

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nwwoman
Posts: 43
Joined: Sun Oct 07, 2007 11:45 am
Location: SE Washington (not DC!)

As the installing of the new tub story continues, I must admit that this is MUCH MORE work than anticipated. For any other newbies attempting this, consider yourself forewarned!

We are now at the hardest part, from what others have said and I now believe, and need some advice/help before proceeding.

I have posted photos below and to profile to help describe my words.

The new steel/enameled tub (which I now regret getting) has an overflow. The old one did not.

We are now trying to install tub and connect to drain. Yesterday, we tried to put tub into place without removing toilet which sits parallel to tub alcove. Alcove is 54 inches wide; so is tub. We have been contemplating using straps to drop it in. I'm thinking we need to cut the water to the house and remove the toilet.

** If you look at the photo of the tub, you'll see that the vertical overflow drain extends below the base of the tub. Sliding the tub with drain on may damage the floor. Do people remove it and then connect it after tub is installed? Doing that from below would be a VERY long reach.

** If you look at the photo of the recess we have created, you'll see that we left in place the plywood sheathing. I am thinking that we should make a 12 x 12 inch (or so) hole in the sheathing near floor level. The cut will have to go not only through the plywood sheathing but also the 3/16 inch melanite panel that we installed from ground to ceiling yesterday. Is that customarily what people do -- to connect overflow drain to tub drain and to drain under house?

** I am looking at the hole in the floor that was used by the old tub for the left drain/no overflow. The new tub's overflow drain is on the left end of the tub, rather than under the tub, and thus very close to the end wall. I am thinking that we need to cut the floor under the tub almost up to the wall to enlarge that hole to enable the new overflow drain to go vertically down. Correct? (See picture)

I am then thinking that the hole in the access box, if we cut through the sheathing and the melanite, will provide us access to the overflow drain. Will we be able to connect it to all of the pipes (tub and below floor) from through this hole? One of us says no; the other yes.

I am also worried about the effect of these cuts on structural integrity. Once the tub overflow drain is connected, I don't see how we can close the enlarged floor hole. Problem or not?

I have been all over the gallery looking for photos to help but came up with no visual aids. I do have Mark's manual.

Thank you SOOOO much in advance for being here to help. I know it's hard to do this from a distance but it truly does help greatly to have your input and advice.

PS It's raining and cold here today. I cannot imagine sliding under the house today. Grim.

THANK YOU!!!


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1980 Rex Mftg Home; metal ext / roof; bowed roof; 2 bdrm; 1.5 bath., single wide; 14X60
User avatar
Harry
Posts: 1249
Joined: Mon Feb 26, 2007 7:45 pm
Location: Citrus county Florida

Hi

Washington! Beautiful county out there.

- Yep always remove the toilet first.

- Overflow - you could cut and block it off... it's up to you.

- Down-under - usually you will have to go down-under a lot when replacing a tub.

- Lots of cuts - if you are concerned about the weakened floor you can add blocking between the floor joists down-under. Also you can add some blocking beneath the tub.

Hope this helps.

Harry
Aside from the roof leak, soft floors, rats, mice and bursted plumbing ........ how do you like it?
nwwoman
Posts: 43
Joined: Sun Oct 07, 2007 11:45 am
Location: SE Washington (not DC!)

Well, dang ..not in a good mood! ... the install of the high end (expensive) trip lever/drain will not work.

The pipe from the overflow is about three inches away from the air exhaust pipe. Some massive changes would have to be done to install a trip lever and overflow. Called a plumber friend/biz owner -- but he's gone fishing until Wednesday.

So, grrr, having to revert back to the icky old method of using a pop-up drain or a plastic cover/plug. I am sooo upset.

Wanted something nice but guess it won't happen. Now hoping that the small Ace hardware here has something to use for the drain. Otherwise we will have to leave town and drive 35 miles to get to Home Depot...or 80 miles north to Lowes.

Work is tomorrow..Monday..and now...at day five...it seems like the only thing that will be accomplished today is getting the tub in, hopefully, and getting in the drain. Shower faucets will have to wait until Monday or Tuesday.

Lesson: Don't ever try to convert a non-overflow/no-trip-lever bathtub to an overflow/trip lever bathtub in a mobile home without expecting you are going to have to move walls or plumbing --- major changes in plumbing, not minor DIY stuff. And I don't even know how a plumber would do it! Not enough space!

Well, back at it. ... how I wish I drank beer or something!
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1980 Rex Mftg Home; metal ext / roof; bowed roof; 2 bdrm; 1.5 bath., single wide; 14X60
nwwoman
Posts: 43
Joined: Sun Oct 07, 2007 11:45 am
Location: SE Washington (not DC!)

Well, this tub adventure could make a short story.

The tub that was removed was 54. The tub that is going in is 54.

And guess what, the tub won't fit. Measured and remeasured. 54.

So, now we are removing walls for what I thought would be a slip-in.

AGGGGG
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1980 Rex Mftg Home; metal ext / roof; bowed roof; 2 bdrm; 1.5 bath., single wide; 14X60
User avatar
Harry
Posts: 1249
Joined: Mon Feb 26, 2007 7:45 pm
Location: Citrus county Florida

Hi

Reminds me of my last bathroom remodel. It also started with a tub replacement. One problem lead to another and before long the whole room got gutted.

Turn lemon into lemonade. Now you can go for the whole bathroom remodel. It might take longer. You can use the .5 bath till it gets done.

Don't worry be happy.

Harry
Aside from the roof leak, soft floors, rats, mice and bursted plumbing ........ how do you like it?
nwwoman
Posts: 43
Joined: Sun Oct 07, 2007 11:45 am
Location: SE Washington (not DC!)

oh gawd, I don't think I want to mention "go for entire remodel" to my male friend who is helping. He told me yesterday that he almost walked out but decided that since he had committed that he would stick it out.

We did have one success yesterday -- the tub went into the alcove. No hookups but it's in. Needed that win.

We decided not to use the trip lever and overflow drain. That was about 60 bucks in materials so I hope I can sell or return to Home Depot.

Does anyone know where we can get: a chrome plate to cover the hole in the tub that the manufacturer created for the trip lever? I found one at Ace but it does not have a brace for the screws to go into. Fellow there said to use wood and sold me wood screws.

And, has anyone bought the pop-up drain from mobilehomerepair's store? Will the chrome on it flake? Will it last? Is it bottom of the line or top?

I found one drain at ACE but I spent four hours looking for something like the swivel connector. To work with the ACE drain, we need a female thread with a smooth pipe. Female goes into the ACE drain. Smooth goes into the trap. We have a swivel to tighten the smooth pipe. My friend does not want to glue because of what could happen in the future.

Suggestions?
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1980 Rex Mftg Home; metal ext / roof; bowed roof; 2 bdrm; 1.5 bath., single wide; 14X60
oldfart
Posts: 431
Joined: Fri Dec 21, 2007 10:31 am

Aye nwwoman nothing is ever as easy as it seems when upgrading or remodeling these home is it..eh? Well, allow me to interject some humor into the situation and mebbe I can at least bring a smile to you. As in any job.. the tape measure lies constantly. It may say "it fits!" It won't. Something is always in the way, out of square or..it just.... won't... fit! Now, mind ye, my observations are based on my experience with a 1970 s.w. home. The newer homes are much better built. Anyways..ceilings are lower..doors don't fit...a ceiling fan better be a "hugger" unless yer verrrry short or have a crew-cut! And don't even think of instaling the light-kit! Who designed this plumbing? What kind'a pipe is this? I've got ABS/PVC/CPVC/copper..both hard-copper and soft flexible copper/galvanized AND black iron pipe in this home. All from the factory! (ca.1970) Why does a mobile home use toilets that mount 11in. from the wall and all other homes use 12in. from the wall toilets? Who's bright idea was it to install no shut-off valves? Anywhere. All the original electrical boxes in my home are the steel shallow boxes. You might get a standard switch or receptacle in there. Mebbee...mebbe not! Depends on how many wires are in there. Who designed this wiring? I throw a breaker and I lose power "at random" is the best way I can describe it. For example..breaker #1 throws and I lose 1 receptacle in the bedroom..the lights in the livingroom on the opposite side..my outside porch-light..and my van won't start for 2 days! Go figger? And another thing! The original hallway was only 36in. wide and most of the doorways was 28in. wide doorways. How'd they ever get a bed into any of them bedrooms? The bathroom door was 28in. wide and the hook-ups are there for a washing machine. Hmmmm? A washing machine is 30in. wide at minimum. My extra-heavy-duty Admiral is 32in. wide. My ample girth exceeds the minimum allowable entrance to these cubicles! Harrumph! Well M'am, where there is a will there is a way! Plan carefully and be patient. And I firmly believe beer is the lubricant that makes life possible. Now belly up to the bar..pop the top on a Yuengling Porter with me..... partake deeply and pass the peanuts. This job is gonn'a take a while. Audie..the Oldfart....
nwwoman
Posts: 43
Joined: Sun Oct 07, 2007 11:45 am
Location: SE Washington (not DC!)

Laughing here. Thanks so much for the smile. That, and a shower, is needed. Luckily, I can telecommute for work, so I am working at home this morning.

Per my prior post, anybody purchased the drain kit from mobilehomeprepair.com? Have to get one today.
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1980 Rex Mftg Home; metal ext / roof; bowed roof; 2 bdrm; 1.5 bath., single wide; 14X60
brecklundin

when I did my mini-remodel on the master bath...mind my place is a 1966 Boardmore and back then a "master bath" meant something different, apparently... ;)

Anyway, I wanted to block the overflow because I need more depth in the tub and there was no cash to buy a new tub until the full remodel.

I looked EVERYWHERE for a chrome cover plate for the overflow...found nada...nuttin'....noooooothing....so finally I found a nice rubber sink drain plug and it fit the hole pretty well but would, of course not stay in place. So I used a bit of silicone adhesive/sealant and viola problem solved. Looks OK...in your case you could always put a couple coats of outdoor spray paint on it...you know that Krylon stuff for plastic outdoor what-not's? and paint the rubber drain plug white...nobody will likely ever notice.
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