Bathroom walls help

Repair help for the do-it-yourselfer.
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Moderators: Greg, Mark, mhrAJ333, JD

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Dani

Hi All,

I'm back with more strange questions from female mind trying to remodel alone. Funny huh? Have to laugh all.I had an Estate Christmas Sale today, trying to do something with a 5x7 shed FULL
of xmas stuff.Any and all you cann image 75% new never been opened and I had 2 people show up. Funny

Ok, The facuet in the bath sink apparently had been leaking from the pipe connection for a long time. The pressed wood/paneling built in vanity was pretty much plup on the inside. I removed it.
Looked for 48 ", ( wall to wall 48 1/4) vanities all over town and saw 459.00 and higher.
Found a really good deal Brand new in the box wood for 200.00
borrowed a truck picked it up. Was all jazzed. Then I went to buy the top part, LOL 49 ". Why wouldn't I think that the bottom part of the vanity and the top part should be the same size.

Ok since I'm only minus 3/4 of an inch I was wondering if I could cut a hole the same size as the vanity top and slide the 3/4" into the wall and put moulding around it to cover the hole.

Walls on each side look to be just paneling. One side goes into the heater compartment which has at leaset 2" clearance. The other side is harder to tell and is the hot water heater compartment.
The wall the back side fits up against . Should be the kitchen but it looks like there's 2 walls with a few inches inbetween those two.

Is this a do able thing or aseriouslu hair brained idea?? If so got any other suggestions?

Thanks in advance & Happy Holidays to all,
Dani
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Demolition
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Joined: Wed Nov 14, 2007 3:07 am
Location: Arkansas
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When buying repair parts for mobile homes... I found out that they are not exactly the same as regular house parts.
Lowes sometimes carries parts for both. Look at the box of what you are buying or tell the salesperson that you are working on a Mobile Home.
Don't be embarrassed to carry your old part to the store with you. It won't be the first time they seen that.
Call Dinwiddie Demolition we'll tear that house right down.
Sweep up every splinter n haul it out of town
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Yanita
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Joined: Sat Feb 17, 2007 10:16 pm
Location: Eastern N. Carolina

Hi,

I got to admit I am totally lost on what you are asking. Are you saying that you removed the original vanity and that you custom built a new one? Now you are trying to buy a vanity counter top and install a new sink?

Need some clarification or maybe some pics.

Happy Holidays,

Yanita
The difference between success and failure is who gives up first!
skunkman

dani,
if i understand your posting...
you have a space of 48 1/4 inches between 2 walls.
you have a 48" vanity cabinet to go in that area.
you want to know how to get the vanity top which measures 49" total into your 48 1/4 inch space?

you figure since you are 3/4" short of space you want to notch out the side walls so the vanity top will slide in, right?

if we knew the thickness of the panelling or drywall on the walls and how thick is the vanity top is someone may be able to help you more. just a thought!
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Greg
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Location: Weedsport, NY

Dani, the vanity tops are always slightly larger than the base. It sounds to me like you bought the 1 pc. sink / countertop. You have 2 options that I can see, you could very carefully cut the wall to match the end of the counter and slide the end into the wall a half inch on either side and then caulk it up. If done carefully I doubt anyone would ever know.
the other option would be to get a section of counter top to fit and then cut out for the sink.
Greg
"If I can't fix it, I can screw it up so bad no one else can either."
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Yanita
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Joined: Sat Feb 17, 2007 10:16 pm
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Hi,

Wouldnt it be easier to cut the counter to fit, providing it is not a granite or other stone/tile.

Yanita
The difference between success and failure is who gives up first!
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JD
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The countertop should be cut or sanded to fit the walls, as Yanita said. I am just guessing that this is a cultured marble countertop/sink combo. I run onto this often with mobile homes. The cultured marble can be cut with a fine tooth saw, but I like to use a belt sander because it has less chance of chipping. I work with coarse belts.

JD
☯JD♫
Today is PERFECT!

All information and advice given is for entertainment and informational purposes only. The person doing the work is solely responsible to insure that their work complies with their local building code and OSHA safety regulations.
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Harry
Posts: 1249
Joined: Mon Feb 26, 2007 7:45 pm
Location: Citrus county Florida

Hi

A masonry blade in a circular saw works for me. Then finish it off with a belt sander like JD says.

Harry
Aside from the roof leak, soft floors, rats, mice and bursted plumbing ........ how do you like it?
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