Hello everybody, is there anything that can be done about squeeky floors in our homes? I have a few sqeeks in my bathroom in front of the toilet and it drives me crazy.
Joe
sqeeky floors
Moderators: Greg, Mark, mhrAJ333, JD
Hi,
Most of the time floor squeaks can be stopped by tightening the lag bolts along the I beam under your home. The bolts can be found on the lip at the top of the beam. They screw threw the beam into your floor joist.
It's best to have a helper, one standing on the squeak, the other under the home. Gently snug the bolts while the helper is stepping on the squeak.
If this does not fix the problem then it is possible the squeak is coming from the subfloor rubbing on the joist. To fix this you have to pull the floor covering back and set a screw into the subfloor into the joist. Orrr, go under the home, locate the squeak with help from someone above, squirt a little construction adhesive between the subfloor and joist and then set a screw threw the joist and subfloor, being careful not to put the screw threw the interior finish floor.
Yanita
Most of the time floor squeaks can be stopped by tightening the lag bolts along the I beam under your home. The bolts can be found on the lip at the top of the beam. They screw threw the beam into your floor joist.
It's best to have a helper, one standing on the squeak, the other under the home. Gently snug the bolts while the helper is stepping on the squeak.
If this does not fix the problem then it is possible the squeak is coming from the subfloor rubbing on the joist. To fix this you have to pull the floor covering back and set a screw into the subfloor into the joist. Orrr, go under the home, locate the squeak with help from someone above, squirt a little construction adhesive between the subfloor and joist and then set a screw threw the joist and subfloor, being careful not to put the screw threw the interior finish floor.
Yanita
The difference between success and failure is who gives up first!
Hi Joe,
Like Yanita said, the first thing to check is the outriggers. Then if you can pull carpet back and screw down the subfloor, that is the best solution. I will say that sometimes you can run into a squeak that is very persistent and may be hard to eliminate. Often times this will be in a previous repair area where the blocking used is causing the squeak.
But here is a tip that I have used often. Sometimes, there is just too much furniture in a room to pull and reset the carpet, at least for a customer to pay to have done. On a carpeted area, I will locate the floor joists, first by measuring, then by probing with a nail. Then using a 16d finish nail, like they use to install door frames, I will nail down through the carpet into the floor joist. With the head clearly visible in the top of the nap of the carpet, I use a nail set to push the nail down into the subfloor wood. This will usually take 2-3 nails to stop a squeak.
There is a product designed to do this same thing called, Squeak Ender. (just do a search). It uses specially designed screws and a jig to set the screw at the right height. The screw is designed with a break point. You use the jig to break the screw just below the surface of the subfloor. It sounds like this should work, although I have always been happy with my nail method.
There are also other squeak ending product that either puts pressure on the subfloor next to the joist and pushes up and another product that puts short screws into the subfloor to pull down, both using a bracket on the joist. I would not use either of these products on a mobile home. Pushing up on the subfloor just stops a squeak for a day or even minutes. Eventually, it just loosens the floor more. Screws pulling down on subfloor will have minimum strength on plywood and virtually no strength on particleboard. The screw in particle board would just pull out.
Hope this helps.
JD
Like Yanita said, the first thing to check is the outriggers. Then if you can pull carpet back and screw down the subfloor, that is the best solution. I will say that sometimes you can run into a squeak that is very persistent and may be hard to eliminate. Often times this will be in a previous repair area where the blocking used is causing the squeak.
But here is a tip that I have used often. Sometimes, there is just too much furniture in a room to pull and reset the carpet, at least for a customer to pay to have done. On a carpeted area, I will locate the floor joists, first by measuring, then by probing with a nail. Then using a 16d finish nail, like they use to install door frames, I will nail down through the carpet into the floor joist. With the head clearly visible in the top of the nap of the carpet, I use a nail set to push the nail down into the subfloor wood. This will usually take 2-3 nails to stop a squeak.
There is a product designed to do this same thing called, Squeak Ender. (just do a search). It uses specially designed screws and a jig to set the screw at the right height. The screw is designed with a break point. You use the jig to break the screw just below the surface of the subfloor. It sounds like this should work, although I have always been happy with my nail method.
There are also other squeak ending product that either puts pressure on the subfloor next to the joist and pushes up and another product that puts short screws into the subfloor to pull down, both using a bracket on the joist. I would not use either of these products on a mobile home. Pushing up on the subfloor just stops a squeak for a day or even minutes. Eventually, it just loosens the floor more. Screws pulling down on subfloor will have minimum strength on plywood and virtually no strength on particleboard. The screw in particle board would just pull out.
Hope this helps.
JD
☯JD♫
Today is PERFECT!
All information and advice given is for entertainment and informational purposes only. The person doing the work is solely responsible to insure that their work complies with their local building code and OSHA safety regulations.
Today is PERFECT!
All information and advice given is for entertainment and informational purposes only. The person doing the work is solely responsible to insure that their work complies with their local building code and OSHA safety regulations.
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