water heater replacement

[KLBoldon]

Peace of mind

[Greg]

Don't forget to put a line on the T&P valve.

Greg

[ponch37300]

Isn't there something that says that you should use metal pipe for the first 12" or something out of the water heater? Something about the PVC getting too hot when you come right out of the water heater like that?

[crackur]

sharkbites (for connections) are great for waterheaters......I just got a new one installed and they are wonders.

[jpingram5]

Isn't there something that says that you should use metal pipe for the first 12" or something out of the water heater? Something about the PVC getting too hot when you come right out of the water heater like that?

As long as it is CPVC & not regular PVC. CPVC is rated for the high temps of hot water & must be used with the proper glue and given time to set right.

Some people just prefer copper in the start off the tank. I run PEX directly off just fine all the time. Maybe local codes might require you to use metal in the first section because if it was a gas water there might be issues with the vent being too close to the pipes.

[ponch37300]

Isn't there something that says that you should use metal pipe for the first 12" or something out of the water heater? Something about the PVC getting too hot when you come right out of the water heater like that?

As long as it is CPVC & not regular PVC. CPVC is rated for the high temps of hot water & must be used with the proper glue and given time to set right.

Some people just prefer copper in the start off the tank. I run PEX directly off just fine all the time. Maybe local codes might require you to use metal in the first section because if it was a gas water there might be issues with the vent being too close to the pipes.

Interesting. The couple I have replaced that used pex I've bought the pex hot water heater connectors. They are a 12" or so long piece of flexable copper with a shut off valve on them and a pex connector. Makes it nice and easy.

[jpingram5]

I usually throw a 3/4" Sharkbite Female Adapter on each Hot/Cold, stub up maybe a foot or so with PEX and then a 3/4" Sharkbite Ballvalve on each Hot/Cold and then run the PEX to where it goes or adapt to the existing.

[JD]

While it may be time for you to replace that wh, just looking at the picture makes me think the problem is inside that wall. You will have at least one fitting above the floor that could have a small leak or it could be 1" water lines coming up through a 2" hole, creating a condensation problem. You should also check the floor insulation and underbelly in that area.

I believe you are supposed to have flexible supply lines, like the copper of braided steel ones. Might be a California thing but I think it is HUD, which would be national. The pex part ponch was mentioning sounds great!

[ponch37300]

While it may be time for you to replace that wh, just looking at the picture makes me think the problem is inside that wall. You will have at least one fitting above the floor that could have a small leak or it could be 1" water lines coming up through a 2" hole, creating a condensation problem. You should also check the floor insulation and underbelly in that area.

I believe you are supposed to have flexible supply lines, like the copper of braided steel ones. Might be a California thing but I think it is HUD, which would be national. The pex part ponch was mentioning sounds great!

JD, I've used these a few times now and they are really nice. They are 20 bucks a piece but make installation easy. http://www.menards.com/main/plumbing/ro ... c-9381.htm. Hopefully the link works for you since I don't think you have a menards out there. But I'm sure they are avaible other places.

[KLBoldon]

Thank you everyone for your involvement and responses! I want to first address the issue of the CPVC connections right out of the water heater.
- This is exactly how it was hooked up when i bought the place from the park. The brass connections are sold with 3" CPVC stubs and labeled 'water heater connections'. I read numerous blogs and 'how to' posts before gathering all the parts to install and all said CPVC is OK straight from the water heater. My uncle, a master plumber, also stated i could should keep with the CPVC set up, as I was thinking about switching to PEX. Now im not saying i still couldn't be in the wrong, but all those reasons are why I would think it is correct.

-As for the source of the leak...After removing the water heater, I can say with almost 99.99% certainty it it had a leak. As i watched what I thought was a 'condensation' problem over a week changing towels wrapped around the bottom to soak up the water. It progressively got worse. To the point i was wringing the towel out with all the water it soaked up. The bottom of the water heater was rusted out. You can also see from my pics, that both the inlet and outlet lines are coming up from the floor. BUT i will definitely be double checking the underbelly in the area,

- Here are some more pics of the final product! Im pretty proud of it. Added some shelves to take advantage of the wasted space above it, a nice little utility closet now. I am added an 18" door to replace the large drywall access panel with chewed up corners that was covering it.

[KLBoldon]

,