Roof Repair

[Carrieg]

I have a 1970-something mobile that is leaking like a sieve. The ceiling collapsed in several places so I ripped it out, discovered the fibre board was soaked and moldy so had to rip that out too. The problem looks like the previous owners put torch down roofing on the orginal metal roof but didnt finish it or do it properly. So....now I'm flooded out and no one is rushing in to fix this disaster. Obviously money is a huge factor or I wouldn't be in this situation. What is the best solution for this situation? The only roofer I've been able to get to help me wants to add another layer of torch down, and some drip edge and call it a day. Everything in me says I should have the original metal roof/torchon layer removed, re sheet it and add rolled roofing or torch on. What say those of you with actual mobile home roofing experience?

[JD]

I think if it were me, I would definitely remove the old torchdown but I would leave the orignal roof metal. It plays a role in the structural strength of the original design.

There is a mobile home repair company in my area that installs 3/8" CDX plywood to the trusses through the roof metal. You would want to be sure to end butt edges on top of a truss to secure both edges. They vulcanize the torchdown to the plywood.

They also use a modified bitumen (torchdown) that has an aluminum finish instead of the mineral shingle looking finish. Seems that that stuff would reflect more heat and last longer.

Not sure if the above method would pass a permit inspection, but that would also be the same case with your original torchdown application.

[Carrieg]

Doesn't seem to make sense to me to put new sheeting over the rusty metal roof that's full of holes. Will my trailer fall apart if I remove the metal roof?

[DCDiva]

I know you are working with a budget but putting on a metal roof would be a perm fix to your roof problem and you would not have to tear anything off the roof. You can use 2 x4 to make more of a pitch,attach them to the trusses from front to back, you can add a 1 x or another 2x4 on top of each other in the middle and go smaller as you go to the outside edge--use screws!!! and you can add on to the sides to make a soffit and gutter. The cost depends on size metal in my area is running $ 2.18 a liner foot right now and the metal is 36 inches wide but the is an over lap and the trim is 10 ft long but if need be you can wait to add the trim pieces until you can afford them--For Example if you have a 12x 60 MH--the 3 ft panels is you have a 12 ft wide MH and add a soffit so for 14 wide x3 x2.18 ft=$30.32 x 21 panels(over lap)=$ 606.40 plus cost of lumber/gutter so @800 or less but something you can save for or buy a few pieces at a time.

[Carrieg]

well took the plunge and jumped in to the roof repair. The metal turned out to be way more damaged than i thought, the torch down wasn't adhered to the metal, it left a pocket which collected water and rusted almost completely through. So pretty much no choice but to remove whats left of it and start over. Collected what I hope are all the supplies, already stripped one end and hopefully have it re-sheeted tomorrow. I've chosen to go with white specked rolled roofing with a white drip edge. Some people have said negative things about it, but it's just really one big shingle, and its way nicer to look at than the torch on stuff. Only thing I'm not totally sure about is whether the drip edge goes directly over the sheeting or on top of the felt?

[JD]

Over the sheathing, under the felt.

My first sentence in my reply above may have been mis-leading. I actually would not do either roofs mentioned above, but that is from a professional standpoint. If I were to do what you were asking about, then I would remove the old torch-down and install plywood over the original metal, but as mentioned, this may not be an approved plan.

The old roof metal adds support to the wall, helping to keep the wall from warping or racking. All of the structural components work together to achieve the original permits to build the homes at the factory. Changes in structural elements require engineering to be legal.

I truly doubt that removal of the roof would make the home fall apart or have any negative impact as long as the function of the roof metal is compensated for. Sheathing or wood/Hardie panel siding will offer strength regarding racking. Truss/top plate framing details can keep the wall straight up and down.

JMHO