Metal Skirting idea on installation

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JasonT
Posts: 4
Joined: Fri Aug 10, 2012 6:59 pm

Hi I have a 2000 fleetwood doublewide I have lived in since new. I have the system 1 skirting on it and it is getting in bad shape. Alot of the concrete panels are cracked and falling apart. The system seemed to work ok but never really sealed up the bottom that well due to gaps etc. My question is does anyone thing this would work?
1)Install pressure treated framing from bottom of dw to within a few inches of the ground.
2) Dig a 12'' deep trench under the framing, install 4" drain line then cover with a few inches of pea gravel.
3) Install corrugated metal onto frame with several inches down into the trench
4) Backfill the sheet metal to level grade with pea gravel.
5) insulate back with styro sheets.
My thought on doing it this way is because its very windy in winter here and we are also succeptable to frost heave. I would think the drain pipe would keep heave to a minimum and even if it heaved too much the black 4" drain pipe would just crush a little.
By the way I live around Buffalo NY so I want to try and keep the underside as warm as possible in winter. Thanks Jason
hhb
Posts: 58
Joined: Mon Apr 23, 2012 1:14 pm

You mean something like this:
http://www.mobilehomerepair.com/article6.html

:-)
JasonT
Posts: 4
Joined: Fri Aug 10, 2012 6:59 pm

well, not exactly. If I were to pound 2x4 stakes into the ground to support the horizontal 2x4's and metal skirting I guarentee the frost would push them up out of the ground. I have heavy clay soil that heaves alot in winter so the better skirting idea would not work. Thats why I am trying to come up with some type of variation. Thanks Jason
hhb
Posts: 58
Joined: Mon Apr 23, 2012 1:14 pm

I've seen something on here somewhere about attaching the skirting to the bottom 2x4's, and at the top having it in a J channel or similar so that it "floats". Kind of the opposite of what you're suggesting. Your idea seems good as well, though. I had some metal roofing I was using as skirting around a house extension on my old place (not a MH, just an old addition without a foundation), and did something similar. I found after a couple of years the metal tended not to be in the same place and came apart at a couple of seams a bit. I'm in Canada, so similar climate. It might have been from ice, frost or house movement, but the metal didn't "float" in the gravel like I thought it would have. Could have been from the type of gravel though, and I didn't do the drainage pipe like you suggest; if you can, use gravel with really rounded rocks (like from a beach or something).
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Greg
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Joined: Wed Feb 28, 2007 8:01 pm
Location: Weedsport, NY

Jason, The article was written by the site owner Mark. He set it up on his home in South Dakota, He get the brutal cold of -40 (we get the snow) so if it work there there should be ho problem in our area. The gravel in the trench moves without pushing the metal. I have had metal on our's for a few years with no problems.

Greg
"If I can't fix it, I can screw it up so bad no one else can either."
JasonT
Posts: 4
Joined: Fri Aug 10, 2012 6:59 pm

Thanks for the input guys. My biggest fear is spending 500-1000 bucks on a setup and having it get bolwn up the first year or two. I guess I am missing something on the way Mark does his. I dont understand how stakes pounded into the ground dont heave up and cause problems with the metal or framing. My system 1 uses concrete blocks anchored with rebar to support the panels. The blocks have a hole drilled in them for the rebar and every year the rebar pops up from frost heave but doesnt do damage because its not attached to the blocks. The biggest thing I am trying to accomplish is to not have to work on it every year. Funny how saving a few bucks in the beginning between the perimeter footing and blocks vs system 1 seemed like a good idea. Thanks again for the ideas Jason
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Greg
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Joined: Wed Feb 28, 2007 8:01 pm
Location: Weedsport, NY

As I said, it does work. The gravel in the trench shifts around the steel rather than pushing against it. I don't think the 2x4 stakes shifting has much effect. You could also go with 18-24" sections of steel fence posts They would be as strong and probably less effected by ground heave. I would say try one side and see how it works for you.

If you are having problems now I know you will like it.

Greg
"If I can't fix it, I can screw it up so bad no one else can either."
JasonT
Posts: 4
Joined: Fri Aug 10, 2012 6:59 pm

Thanks Greg, thats exactly what I am going to do. I am going to put all the good panels together and do the side I am now short. I already looked at some nice dark green metal,now time to get to work Thanks Jason
donmorgan
Posts: 6
Joined: Sat May 26, 2012 6:53 am
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I did mine with metal 2x4 studs instead of wood. Notching them at the top to fit into place and screwed them with galvanized screws at the top and buried them in the ground. Then I used sheets of galvanized roofing for the skirting panels that I buried about 6 inches. Has held up now for almost 6 years now and counting.
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