EPDM Roof Okay?

[markjhansen]

I want to put a new roof on my 1985 14X70 MH.
The metal roof thats on it in now is in pretty good shape, but it is in northern wisconsin and is our seasonal cottage. we don't want to worry about leaks when we are not there and in the winter, and its old.
My first choice was a peaked roof with a frame biult around the MH but not touching it. The cost was way more than I can afford, so I had a MH roofer come out and he said he could put on a EPDM roof on for about a third of what the other roof would cost.
He also would want to put 3inch polystyrene sheet insulation under this roof to keep it more stable in the winter with all of the snow that we could get.
What do you think about this option and this type of roof?
Are these roofs as good as I here, the roofer is from a mobile home supply company so i i think he should know what hes talking about.
There is a 12 year warranty on this roof and he says it should last 20 to 25 years without any problems.
What do you think about this type of roof?

[hhb]

It's a 1985 and still had a flat metal roof? Maybe that's a USA thing, I think the last year I've seen for those was 1979 around here (Canada), everything since has had peaked roofs, probably when they started calling them "mini homes" and not "mobile homes".

Anyhow, I've heard on this forum and elsewhere of people putting a frame up outside the MH and a roof on top, but I've never seen it around here. I assume there's a reason for doing it this way, but I don't know. Most people around here re-roof their pre-1980 mobiles by attaching a 2 x 4 frame around the soffit, and then rafters, ridge board, sheathing, tar paper & shingles or steel. You could skip the sheathing & tar paper and go with purlins if using steel (lighter that way). Trim it out to match, or put on some vinyl siding on the gables at least along with decent sized vents.

It's more work to put on a peaked roof, but will probably last longer. I've seen some older MHs with collapsed flat roofs from snow load (probably why they stopped selling those in 1979). If you add a rubber roof and other materials, you're adding more weight to your roof to go along with the snow.

[markjhansen]

Hi again,
My roof is not completly flat, it's kind of dome shape with a peak or rise above the catherdral ceiling in the middle of the MH.
Thats why it would cost so much to have have the pitched pole style type roof installed.
They would have to build up both sides past the peak to make it work,
Plus the 6X6's in the ground to frame it out around the MH.
On a 14X70 roof thats a lot of Trusses, Labor,Wood, roofing and Money ( which is scarce right now)
Anyway I am seriously considering the EPDM rubber roofing placed on top of new 3" polystyrene insulation because of the lower price and peace of mind of having a new more solid roof on my seasonal MH.
I am looking for any comments on this type of roof.
Thanks.

[bobfather99]

Theres a roofer on youtube (search for "baseballgrader") that puts the EPDM roofs on lots of homes. I believe he's in coastal North Carolina. He shows whats involved in roofing with the product, and answers questions via message. Give him a look.

[Greg S]

My personal opinion is that if a EPDM roof is guaranteed for 12 years do not expect it to last much longer than 12 years (if that long). The hope with most guarantees of this type is that by the time the roof fails the owner will not bother trying to collect on the warranty and even if they do the fix for the supplier is to simply patch a leak.
You would be farther ahead, assuming the existing roof is not leaking, to save up your money for a couple of years and then go ahead with a conventional peeked roof. It will last longer, increase the value of the home for resale and in the end probably be less expensive that having to replace a EPDM roof a second time in the next 10 years.
I would bite the bullet and do it right the first time when you can afford it.

[JD]

I repair APDM and PVC roofs often. I am amazed at how well these single ply roof materials last. The ones I have seen were having seam problems. But these were 20 year old roofs. These materials have all improved over the years.

I think single-ply roofs are great but quality of install is everything. Seam and vent heat welding and the termination bars will make or break an install. A solid 3" thick piece of polystyrene would help distribute weight on the roof a lot, but you are still counting on the original truss design to hold the weight of snow.

One thing that is real important is you don't water to pond anywhere on the roof after a rain. The substrate, being the metal roof, may need some additional support at the eaves. They tend to cave in a foot or so from the edge.

[flcruising]

Very good information JD.

The only experience I've had with single-ply roofing is detail drawings I've had to produce for their installation. Never used it personally. As stated, installation is critical, which includes attachment method (mechanically fastened or fully adhered), seams, flashing, edge termination, etc.

Being in the north where you have more heating days, I would personally choose black EPDM which would provide some solar heat gain and maybe help melt the snow faster.

Another thought to consider - take the opportunity beforehand to blow in some loose fill insulation into the ceiling cavity (very lightweight), and lessen the thickness of the rigid insulation to be installed on top of the roof. Check to see if 3" of insulation would conflict with any vent stacks or penetrations you have. 3" of added roof height is 3" less snow you want up there if the vents aren't extended to compensate.