Rebuild Hot Water Heater Access Door

[busybee1952]

I have removed the hot water heater access door thinking to replace it but that won't be possible. So, I must rebuild this door. It is slightly bent but I can still get it to close if I hammer on it a bit.

http://s162.photobucket.com/albums/t243 ... lldoor.jpg

I have replaced the piece of paneling that formed the door with a piece of something I had around here and then laid the old metal back on top of it. The way it was originally found by me, someone had set screws along the edge of the aluminum frame to hold the paneling and metal in place. I have not done this yet since I'm not happy with the board I used. It seems that 1/4" plywood would be a better deal, but I don't see how you could bend it enough to get it inside the frame. Also, I have thought to make a flap or small door in the bottom of this so that I would not have to open the whole door just to light the pilot on the hot water heater when I run out of propane. (this happens often) That way, I would not have to struggle with opening the whole door which, as you recall, I will have to hammer in at the top in order to make it close.

http://s162.photobucket.com/albums/t243 ... heater.jpg

You can see in the above photo that the small flap would only need to be about 15" tall in order to access the pilot light.

Here are some other pictures. Please take a look and please let me know if anyone has any suggestions. Also, when I took the door down, there was some sort of putty behind it which was about an inch wide and seemed to provide a water-proof seal. Does anyone know the name of that stuff? Thanks for all your suggestions.

ttp://s162.photobucket.com/albums/t243/Busybee1952/?action=view&current=hotwaterheateraccessdoor.jpg

http://s162.photobucket.com/albums/t243 ... ofdoor.jpg

http://s162.photobucket.com/albums/t243 ... oropen.jpg

[altasnowman]

hi,
If you have the room i would build a door frame using 2x2s with a center brace or cross brace then apply outside metal from old door and mount using piano hinge and magnetic catch to keep door closed. if you have the room i would build door using 2x4s and would install doorknob with lock to keep door closed, just a thought tho.

[Mark]

Personally, I would just buy the same door new and install it. Very quick and easy. You could also make a door, but it would have to be somewhat a custom size, which would require some finagling.

The putty you referred to is called putty tape. Something we have, but for some reason not listed in the shopping pages of the website.


Mark

[JD]

Hi Pat,

I agree with Mark with buying a new door. That would be your best bet. But they can get pricey with shipping.

I have fixed bent up utility doors with angle aluminum and pop rivets. This keeps them lightweight and keeps them from folding, bending etc. Where the sheet aluminum is pulling out of the frame, maybe you could use just an extruded aluminum flat bar or a heavy aluminum carpet bar (probably cheaper) to secure the loose metal. This can be pop riveted to the angle aluminum on the inside.

You could also use screws and nuts, but they will tend to work loose over time. Regular metal screws will also loosen. A pop rivet gun and a box of rivets could run $25 or so, depending on what you choose. Just an idea. I know I have fixed a lot of doors that way.

JD

[busybee1952]

All good ideas! Thanks Guys! I want to get some of that putty Mark. How do I go about that since it's not listed? I won't be buying a new door. Too easy. LOL (more like too pricey) My dad says he thinks he can make some clamps to bend the aluminum back the way it's supposed to be. He thinks it got that way from being blown open in a bad wind. He also suggested some cross braces and maybe some small bolts to hold it all together. He said my small door or flap idea wouldn't work and to forget that idea.

My dad is 81 and is pretty handy so maybe he can fix me up.