trimming edge of fiber glass entry door?

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Lorne
Posts: 368
Joined: Sat May 19, 2007 7:57 am
Location: Murrells Inlet,SC

Last year, during cold weather, I installed an exterior pre-framed fiberglass door, which turned out great.
As soon as the humid summer weather hit the frame expanded and the door scrapes half way up from the latch area. As soon as this winter hit and the humidity dropped it closes great.

Can I trim about 1/16" to 1/32" off the upper side so it closes?
I have an electric planer, so I can take just a whisper of a cut when needed. :P
1987 Craftsman Double Wide 42x28,w/attached 28x12 foot enclosed porch/ re-shingled 2 yrs ago. Original exterior vinyl w/no sheathing.
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flcruising
Posts: 606
Joined: Mon Dec 03, 2007 2:18 pm
Location: Florida Panhandle

Did you use shims to install the jamb on the strike side? It's possible that you snugged them up just a tad too much. If only one portion of the door is hitting, you may need to pull the casing and use less shim there.

Also, depending on the reveal around the jamb/stop where the weatherstripping is attached, you may have more gap on the hinge side as opposed to the strike side. If this is the case, another approach would be to remove just a little material underneath each hinge on the jamb or door or both. This would pull the door away from the strike side jamb.
[color=blue]Aaron[/color]
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JD
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Joined: Sun Feb 25, 2007 11:57 pm
Location: Fresno, CA
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Aaron's suggestions are excellent but it would be easier to plane off a little from the edge. The fiberglass doors I have installed do have a little over an 1/8" of wood sticking out on the edge. You don't want to remove all of it as it is there to protect the fiberglass. Many times I am able to use a longer (thicker if possible depending on the screw head size) screws in the top hinge to suck the top of the door in a little bit to straighten up the door.

Pulling the door trim and resetting the door better would be a pretty easy fix too, provided this is a standard door (i.e Therma-thru, Reliabilt etc.) and not a mobile home door that has a screw flange on the siding. Most times you can just pull the inside door casing, remove the screws from the top hinge (sometimes the middle hinge too), rework the shims and put it all back together.
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All information and advice given is for entertainment and informational purposes only. The person doing the work is solely responsible to insure that their work complies with their local building code and OSHA safety regulations.
Lorne
Posts: 368
Joined: Sat May 19, 2007 7:57 am
Location: Murrells Inlet,SC

flcruising wrote:Did you use shims to install the jamb on the strike side? It's possible that you snugged them up just a tad too much. If only one portion of the door is hitting, you may need to pull the casing and use less shim there.

Also, depending on the reveal around the jamb/stop where the weatherstripping is attached, you may have more gap on the hinge side as opposed to the strike side. If this is the case, another approach would be to remove just a little material underneath each hinge on the jamb or door or both. This would pull the door away from the strike side jamb.
Removing the casing and pulling a little shim away is the best idea for me. It is a "Therma-thru" door. I just went a little overboard in making a tight fit, forgetting about swelling during humid weather.
Thanks.
1987 Craftsman Double Wide 42x28,w/attached 28x12 foot enclosed porch/ re-shingled 2 yrs ago. Original exterior vinyl w/no sheathing.
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