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I'm going to be replacing my cracked window. It's been ordered lowes will call when it's in. Its almost exactly like the current window they both are screwed in. The current window is srewed in with what appears to be sheet metal srews.
My question is there an easy way to access the window frame without removing the whole wall paneling? I've located rotten wood in my frame upon inspecting it. If I stick my fingers in the rotten part I can actually feel one of the screws. I'm bound to find more bad wood. I've been thinking about maybe just redoing the whole frame to be on the same side.
If you have found rotten wood, then yes, opening up the wall panels is the best way to go. You have to remove the interior panels to get to the framing. Removing these panels is not a hard job. Take your time and you should be able to remove them without alot of damage.
~Yanita~
The difference between success and failure is who gives up first!
Hi Fargoman,
yes recip saw is good way to remove old wood, but watch out for wiring as saw + wiring = shock of your life as well saw will not like LOL. in so far as cutting down 2x4s would use skill saw or table saw. recip may cut on angle or worse. remember measure twice,cut once. have a great day.
The dirtyist word in the dictionary CANCER....it takes many too soon and leaves nothing but anger and pain. We all mourn the loss of those that have succummed to this......
If your exterior walls aren't 2x4, then they'll be 2x6. Depends upon how old and what part of the country you live in.
Myself, I would try to remove the damaged frame pieces without removing any wall or siding pieces. It can be a little tricky to do, but its do-able. Then if you discover more rot below that, then your about stuck removing the wallboard and doing a repair.
Got any tips on mark's idea on how one would remove the bad wood with out removing the wall board? I’m just trying to hear everyone’s opinion before I begin.
Usually dryrot will first start on the cross member framing at the top and bottom of the window. With the window removed, you should be able to see if the water damage is real bad at the upright studs. If they are in good shape, you can just pull wood paneling away from the framing. If it is gypsum wallboard, you may be able to just pull the screws or nails. If not, a hack saw blade would cut through them, as well as the siding screws or nails. A sawzall could get in there and save you a lot of work, but you will need to be very careful not to damage the siding.
Personally, I remove the interior paneling to make it easy to replace whatever needs replacing. For instance, with the paneling removed, I will use the sawzall and cut the 2x in sections, making them a lot easier to remove without damaging the siding.
Most of this gets real self explanatory when you get your hands on it. You will know if you feel comfortable with just pulling out the cross framing. Every situation is a little bit different, but you know that the bad wood has to come out.
You also need to be sure that there is significant damage to the entire 2x4 (sometimes 2x3s here in CA) and not just bad wood at the screw holes. Larger screws or the new screw locations of the new window might do the trick for you. If you can dig out chunks of wood with your finger, it needs to be replaced.
JD
☯JD♫
Today is PERFECT!
All information and advice given is for entertainment and informational purposes only. The person doing the work is solely responsible to insure that their work complies with their local building code and OSHA safety regulations.
One other thing to think about, When building the new frame, use screws, you really don't want to pound on your walls any more than you have to. there is less damage with screws. Greg
"If I can't fix it, I can screw it up so bad no one else can either."
This might be a dumb question but how would be the best way to remove the wall paneling.
I was messing around looking at the damage so I'm prepared when the window arrives. I pryed the staples back around the window frame but I got to thinking how will I do that around the rest of the wall where theres no place to stick my pry bar?
When I pryed the paneling back from the window frame I was able to stick my measuring tape back there. The the thickness was one and a half inches thick. Those aren't 2x4 's in there. I don't buy wood regularly and I was wondering can a person buy boards one and a half inches thick? The length dosen't matter since that can be cut down.
One last thing...on the frame length wise would I have to put a whole new board in since that part of the frame acts as a wall studd. It's the one I measured that was one and a half inches thick. It goes to the ceiling to the floor if I'm right. I did the knocking test
First you will need to remove the trim at the ceiling and batten (if there is any) at the paneling joints. Sometimes there is floor molding too, so that would have to be removed. The best tool for all of this is a trim bar, which looks like a miniature flat bar. You need to be careful if you find the paneling is glued to the wall studs. This can be a major pain if it is. Since you have worked the paneling loose from the window, just slide the trim bar up the studs to keep popping the paneling away from the studs. Some staples will pull through the paneling and remain stuck to the wall stud. You can also start working panels loose from the edges, but that can sometimes leave a mark. I like to start low near the floor. If there is no glue, once you get a handful of paneling loose, the rest can come off pretty easy.
You say that the wall stud measures 1-1/2"? Is that the thickness of the stud or the depth of the wall (from paneling to exterior siding) I have see 1-1/2" (2x2) wall studs in some old mobiles. At any rate, you can get 2x2s at any home store. They are cheap, so get the better quality ones not the utility grade.
Keep us posted with how you are coming along with this repair, OK?
JD
☯JD♫
Today is PERFECT!
All information and advice given is for entertainment and informational purposes only. The person doing the work is solely responsible to insure that their work complies with their local building code and OSHA safety regulations.
I'll have to try and find one of them trim bars. I was using a flat head screw driver to work the paneling from the window.
Can those trim bars be bought at any home store? Is there a special name for them?
1- 1/2 in. was the wall stud thickness. I'll look for those 2x2's
I'll keep everyone posted. I won't be doing it till the window comes in a about a week. I'm just trying to plan everything out so I'm not just jumping into it.
