Need help replacing bath/shower fixtures

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WildIrish
Posts: 144
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The diverter valve is shot, the hot water faucet isn't letting the hot water out anymore (we had a guy fix it once, but now it's down to a trickle again), and the whole mess is just plain grungy, so we want to replace it all! I'm scared to hire anyone in town, because one of them literally damn near flooded our bathroom, and the other ripped me off royally. Because of my distance from the city, a contractor would cost a fortune in mileage alone...so I want to try to do it myself. I've replaced bathroom and kitchen faucets before, but this one's more challenging. Here's why:

There's no way to shut off the water to just the bath/shower, so I have to go into the crawlspace and shut off water to the whole house to remove anything except the faucet. That's why I'd like to know beforehand, what kind of fixtures I need for the hot/cold water...I have carpal tunnel syndrome, so I sure couldn't go down into the crawlspace, turn off the water, take off this fixture, then drive many miles to the nearest city to get a replacement, because I just plain don't have the strength. My solution: I'll need to drive to the city first, get the parts, then do the repairs another day. Looking at the picture, can anyone tell me what type of fixture this is?

Then there's another problem...I want to remove the spout and take it with me to the hardware store, but I have no idea how to get it off. I had my Allen wrenches ready and looked for a screw, but found no screw underneath. Just an indentation with what appears to be a letter E in it (please see photo).

I don't know if I'm missing something, or if it's one of the spouts you just unscrew to remove. Problem is, when I used a wrench to try to unscrew it, it wouldn't budge--and the wall of the tub/shower moved somewhat. So I'm afraid of breaking something, and I'm equally afraid that if I had someone else do this for me, they might break something, leaving me with a hefty repair bill I can't afford!

Any advice on how to get this thing off with less brute force...or am I doing something wrong, overlooking a screw that needs to be removed?

All help greatly appreciated!
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Greg
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Usually the spouts are threaded on, so (in theory) it should just unscrew.

Since you want to try to make this a 1 trip repair, I would open up the wall to gain access to the back of the faucets, see what you are working with for plumbing and go pick out a new shower faucet. Try to figure what if any fittings you will need and maybe add 1/4 turn shutoff valves. If you do add valve, use Brass or Stainless, plastic body valves do not hold up and fail when you need them.

Greg
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JD
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I am hoping that the faucet handles are located at 8"o.c., as that will allow you to use a standard 2 handle faucet. These usually come with just a valve body for the faucet and a separate spout. The spout is attached with 1/2" plumbing pipe coming out of the bottom of the valve body, going down the length you need, and then a 1/2" elbow fitting of your choice. To this, you screw in the right sized galv nipple for the spout. I like to use PEx pipe and then for the elbow I use a PEx drop ear fitting (1/2" PEX x 1/2" NPT Brass Drop Ear Elbow). That way I can nail in a 1x4 across studs to screw the drop ear to, to make the spout secure and solid. A lot easier than trying to keep a regular galv 90 from wiggling with plumbers tape or whatever. (Note: if you have copper plumb pipe, use brass fittings or convert to PEx)

But before you go to the store, I would cut/remove the plumbing to the faucet and just cap off the lines. Then you can remove everything and take it with you. Sharkbite/Gatorbite and well as BrassCraft etc. make push fitting plug caps for pex, cpvc, and copper. For galv pipe, you will have to use galv plugs. Simple easy though. Then you can take your time doing the store thing and even start the work the next day.

I guess if you don't have fitting to "cap" the lines, that would make two trips. So you could look at the faucet through your access hole to see the 1/2" plumbing coming out of the top and bottom of the valve and that the handles are 8" apart. That tells you that you just need a standard 2 handle shower/bath faucet. (The diverter is on the spout) Everything else you will need will be standard plumbing parts, be it PEx, galv or copper/brass. I go with PEx everywhere except the nipple coming out of the drop ear for the spout. You want this part solid feeling.

I would also work out a secondary main shutoff valve that is easier to get to.

PS. You would also use PEx and the drop ear elbow for the goose neck at the shower head gooseneck. Works sweet!
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1987Commodore
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I would GUESS that the chrome trim around the handles should unscrew. IF there is a set screw on the spout, it would be on the bottom, right where it comes out of the wall, which I can't see in your photo. Whatever way it is set up, you're going to need access from the back side. With any luck, there's an access panel there.
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WildIrish
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Actually, the paneling on the wall behind the tub/shower is gone, presumably because somebody else did a repair on it before we moved in. Problem is, our heavy washer and dryer are directly in front of where I'd have to access the plumbing. Normally, I could move those with the hand truck, but the laundry room is SO small, that moving these appliances must be done by a human stronger than myself.

Sigh...I guess that means I'll have to try to find a handyman, because the plumbers around here would keel over in a faint if I asked them to move anything. They nearly die when I tell them how far we live from the city!

Thanks for the info, though...frustrating not to be able to do this myself, but it was worth asking, anyway. :)
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JD
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I think the spout just unscrews, but it could be on there real tight. Again, on the back side of that enclosure wall, is probably some type of elbow fitting, fastened or strapped down to a piece of wood. Moving the WD allows you to put a wrench on that side of the spout connection. To replace the faucet, you will have to go through the front or the back. Going through the front will cost you the enclosure walls.
☯JD♫
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DaveyB
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Before you go hiring a plumber or a handyman ....

You don't need them, all you need is some muscle that can apply their strength where and when told while you do the actual fitting! Consider contacting a local college and see if they would recommend some suitably sized student that would be willing to assist with the muscle part for a small fee?

All they are going to do is move the washer and dryer out to let you do the work, possibly hold a wrench for you, then move the washer and dryer back to where you want them. You don't need a plumber to do that! :twisted:

Just my 2 cents!

DaveyB

Edit: Removed the transient reference, since it was a bit OTT - hope that's a better suggestion :)
Last edited by DaveyB on Thu Aug 11, 2011 2:10 am, edited 2 times in total.
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DaveyB
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Just a quick note to apologize - the remark about the transient was well intentioned, but I didn't take into account the OPs position, and I'm sorry about that. I have edited my above post to reflect a more restrained, but still workable suggestion that may help.

Of course, I would never suggest picking up day-workers for hire from in front of an establishment - here in AZ, they actually passed a law against picking up workers off the street, since it is such a problem, but I'm glad JD mentioned it as it should definitely not be considered an option!

Just as an aside, if anyone else is wondering about my late night posts, I work second shift, and don't normally get home until just before midnight, which is when I log into the forums to wreak havoc ... ummmmm ... post replies :)

Sorry if my comment above offended anyone or seemed out of place, and I hope the revamped version is more acceptable !

DaveyB
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