mobilehomerepair.com

i really need some input on what we should do to attach this together.
what you are seeing is the gap between trailer and deck roof if you were looking out the door and up towards the sky.
i purchased a preowned(used) deck. we already cut the legs down as much as possible since it was almost 16 inches above the roof of trailer .
we really wanted it to be the exact hight but with the pitch of the roof , if we cut anymore then we couldnt open the door. the door is not a regular trailer door but one that was custom ordered( cut more into the trailer) years ago.
the deck roof( shingled part) is still about 2 inches above trailer roof. i am okay with that , i guess........ i have to be okay with it..
the inside of the deck roof( don't know what you call it) is level with trailer roof though. we want to use something to attach them( flashing?) so that no more water is running down over the door( already replaced door brick mold 4 times due to water damage). what do you guys( and girls) think??? i am really frustrated right now....

I am thinking that a porch roof should always be connected (flashed) to the home below the roof level. It is just the nature of roofing to have design as your first line of defense.

But something that might work for you is adding a 4" gutter under that top horizontal trim piece of the siding. You may want to be able to dismantle the ends of the gutter to be able to clean it out as it may be difficult to do from the top. Just an idea.

We are going to move this post to the repair forum where it may get more responses.

we are going to try coil stock?? i think thats what its called.

i agree with jd . aside from rebuilding the deck or raiseing the trailer that's about theeasiest and cheapest way out. you really don't want to have the roof of the deck and the sofet attached permanetly . seen many problems with that. frost heave and wall stress from the added weight of deck roof .makes these m/h unhappy. make sure what ever you use is wide enough to over lap both sides. rain is cold when it trickels down the back of your neck.

Coil stock is simply a roll of flashing material that is to be bent to a profile with a sheet metal brake. Since the peak of the deck roof is above the house eave, you're only choice really is to divert the water to each end of the deck roof using a gutter system like JD said. If you could drop the deck roof below the house eave, then the solution would simply be a drip edge flashing spanning the gap and overlapping to the deck roof from the house. Rain would simply continue on it's way. But since you have a barrier (the deck roof), you must gutter it and divert to the sides, not an ideal solution.

I would agree with the guttering added to the side of the mobile home, but I would also add some flyscreen material above it, suspended from the deck roof and hitting near the bottom of the guttering. This is because, in the case of heavy rain, drops hitting just above the mating point will splash over the edge and straight down your neck - the flyscreen will trap them and let them run into the guttering instead.

Add a few weights to the bottom edge of the flyscreen, so it hangs and stays there, and since it doesn't reach the bottom of the gutter, it shouldn't become a trap for leaves and other debris.

Looking at that photo, the deck roof is supported on what looks like a 6x2. What the heck is that roof made of that it needs that kind of support? You could probably replace that beam with something a lot less imposing and then lower the deck roof to the required height without the problems that you are currently facing. You could even add a couple of intermediate support posts along the back edge of the deck to reduce the length of the support span, and by putting them in pairs, you could disguise them as vertical supports for shelving on the deck itself. Just an idea

Just make sure when you build it yourself, that it can hold any furniture you put on it, plus the weight of multiple people.

<<<URL removed by moderator>>>