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I bought the Frost King brand of window insulation Kit at HD. No Other brand available there, like 3-M.
Tried it Outside on the window frame and inside too, "After Cleaning it".
They keep pealing away from the adhesive strip that is stuck to the wood surface. Darn-Heck.

Is the 3-M brand better, if I can find it?
My alternative is to breakdown and by a Table Saw (wanted one for a long time) and custom build frames and buy acrylic sheeting (expensive) set in grooves.

Any experience with this "&^%$#%%^$" Stuff??
Explitives deleted for the protection of the Moderators ears.

Hey Lorne,

I am not familiar with the product you are mentioning but here are my thoughts. Break down and go buy the table saw! You are always redoing something and the saw will come in handy many times. Also over the course of years the saw will certainly pay for itself...and it probably won't take years, we are talking about weatherization.

I am guessing that upgrading to better windows is not an option at this time. I know plexi can get rather spendy but at least you can do it once and be done with it, opposed to plastic which as you say does not stay in place, eventually rips etc...

Ok, gotta get here and go pay my gas bill! Rough winter here in NC this year. Heating budget...well let's say there is no budget!

HAGD! Yanita

You can't go wrong with 3M products there is a reason they cost a little more. Hanging the stuff can be a major pain if you are doing a large window, just like using plastic food wrap. It helps to have two people and start at the top.

As for a saw, I HIGHLY recommend Ryobi's BTS21, It folds up and it's easy to move. It will do about anything you need to do. The ONLY thing about it I don't care for is the blade is a little to far forward (the space between the front of the table & blade) for doing large sheets of plywood easily. Check Craigs list, I gave $70. for mine. Greg

Lorne,

Usually the window film kits (the kind with the double-sided sticky tape and a sheet of plastic, that you shrink to fit with a hair dryer) are intended for interior use. It's a draft stopping product with the same R-factor as plastic wrap, although some users *may* be able to achieve a tight enough seal for the air pocket between the glass and the plastic film to act as an insulator. It's no replacement for double pane, low-e windows and it's a pain in the rear end.

I've used Visqueen & lath in lieu of storm windows. My fella used clear vinyl and 1/4" mounting tape. I have friends who salvaged bubble wrap from a local business and placed the bubble wrap in the cavity between their interior "self storing storm" windows and the exterior windows. It all worked.

google "2011 LIHEAP guidelines." If your household income falls in or below the 200% column, contact your utility company and ask them whom to contact to apply for weatherization services. There are program guidelines and the property owner has to consent to the work, but they frequently install energy efficient retrofits on mobile homes.

In the meantime, try "blackout" curtains and consider installing foam gaskets behind all face plates (for light switches and electrical outlets) on all exterior walls. The foam gaskets work especially well when paired with the plastic plugs folks use for "baby proofing" electric outlets.

Imarja

imarja9999
Thanks for the information.
There are 9 38X48 double hung standard stick built home windows on the porch.
I am getting a table saw (wanted one for a while) and will make 9 exterior storm windows.
I considered Plexiglas type material for the top and bottom half of the storms, with a center cross piece. Each will be 20X32 @ $13 per sheet, pre-cut., so at $26 per window, plus the wood it will be way cheaper then new windows. With a weather stripping seal it should make a good barrier. Thanks again.