Hello! First Post; Removal of Particle Board Flooring

kailor · Sat Jan 01, 2011 11:37 pm

Hello to the forum! I'm removing the particle board flooring (PBF) from one of my rental trailers. I'll use a toe kick saw to go along the walls for a flush cut. How many of you have dug out the PBF from underneath the sill plate and slipped the new plywood underneath the sill plate. It seems like an arduous task. If you have done this before, please describe your process and do you feel it was worth it? I don't like particle board flooring to say the least. Also, if I don't dig out the PBF, I'll just put in a new floor joist when edge support is needed. Floor is 2' on center.

Thanks in advance, Keith.

Greg · Sun Jan 02, 2011 9:40 am

Hi Keith, You finally made it! You can use a 3/4" chisel and dig it out or what many have done is to sister a 2x4 next to the rim to act as a ledger board and support the subfloor on that.

As you have found, Partical board has NO use in a mobile home, In fact I don't think anyone here has found a good use for it other than to fill dumpsters with. It is best to use plywood or at the very least OSB. 2" centers on floor joists it too wide for my liking, You could add cross joists every 3-4' to help stiffen things up some. Greg

JD · Sun Jan 02, 2011 1:31 pm

Hi Keith and welcome to the forum. I like all of Greg's suggestions. I only remove particle board from under walls when it is water damaged. Dry and stable stuff I will leave in place. Forcing the edge of your new subfloor between the wall and floor joists can be tough sometimes, but not always. I will work with the 4' width or smaller side edge of plywood into place by prying the wall up a bit, usually with a long pry bar, and getting the edge of the plywood in place as best I can. I can force it in the rest of the way with a piece of 2x4 on edge and bigger hammers. It is necessary to remove all nails and staples between the walls bottom plate and the subfloor. I use a 4" grinder and cut them out flush to sub-flush.

If the particle board under the wall is not damaged, I will block in the edge to support the new subfloor. Much easier.

Was it worth it? I dunno. Logic tells you that if you are missing a 5/8" spacer at the bottom of the wall, the wall could settle/drop 5/8", but I have not seen that to be the reality. Still the wall drops some and so I like filling that space. But then the other side is, I use 3/4 plywood (sturdi-floor) for subfloor, so technically I am raising the total wall height 1/16" (3/4 is not really 3/4", just a 16th shy, while 5/8" particle board is 5/8ths if not swollen). There is pre-existing framing problems, leveling issues, debris being lodge in the area with the new subfloor and human error all working against exact measurements. I feel the thing to do is "the best you can" for the structure.

joedirt63 · Sun Jan 02, 2011 4:18 pm

greg partical board in good for camp fires, burns good . heh heh lol

kailor · Sun Jan 02, 2011 8:13 pm

Thanks for the replies and the welcome! I demo-ed further today where a tub used to be. The 2x6 rim joist...well let's just say I stuck my finger through it in several places! I had to remove long short window over the tub area and a window in the next bedroom and the outer skin panels (left the top attached) and skirting, top rail and the metal layer behind that to replace 12' of 2x6 rim joist. Sill was rotted, too.

What I discovered was: no vapor barrier, the wall insulation was only about 2" thick and each wall panel had about 100 staples or more! The PBF was so swollen and weak in some places. I'll read up on how to post pics.

kailor · Sun Jan 02, 2011 8:29 pm

How do I/am I allowed to post pics?

DCDiva · Sun Jan 02, 2011 10:25 pm

Hello Welcome to the list!
To post photos go to upload attachment,click Browse,get photos from your computer,the add the file--you can add 3 photos,just figured it out my self lol and I have been posting for a while

My dh and I,just finshed well almost,it is livable lol a 1973 12 x 48 MH for our dd that is in college--we gutted it,we could not replace due to zoning laws--it is 3 hours from our home so many weekends,and 8 weeks of dh vacation,lucky we are very DIY and have a ds and dd and house guest(long story lol) that are great helpers lol. Some parts go fast, but plan a lot and off the shelf stock things like doors and windows do work in MH--I have more indetail photos if needed but below is a photo album--out of order sorry--but you can see the before/during/after

http://www.kodakgallery.com/gallery/sha ... s-_-Sharee

kailor · Mon Jan 03, 2011 6:15 pm

Here are some pics of my effort thus far.

IMG_0001.JPG

IMG_0002.JPG

IMG_0003.JPG

Greg · Mon Jan 03, 2011 7:33 pm

Once you get the joists back in place, you may want to think about checking and possibly doing a relevel. No sense in rebuilding a home that is not level. Use a water level on the frame. Greg

kailor · Mon Jan 03, 2011 11:01 pm

Why do you think I'd need to re-level? Is this something you had to do on your MH? Just curious.

bobfather99 · Tue Jan 04, 2011 12:35 am

That's some serious "surgery" there. Looks like you and your Father-in-law have things under control. Nice work!!!

Greg · Tue Jan 04, 2011 5:42 pm

You may not need to relevel it, but I have found out the hard way that when you install doors, windows & counter tops on a home that was not level when you installed them and then relevel the home AFTER, EVERYTHING is off. It only takes a few hours to crawl under with a water level to check it.

Make sure you use a water level, it is the only way to level a 60' span with any type of accuracy. Greg