Mobile home siding, resealing, aeration; what works?

[johnsinsight]

We are having some trouble keeping the double-wide warmed; we've been doing lots of different things, but the main question here is about the walls.

As the wind is blowing, we noticed a steady stream of cold air coming through the wall socket holes. Going outside to investigate, I found the outer tin, with its standard corrugated form, to be open underneath directly to insulation. Behind the insulation is, of course, the internal panel board. The internal panel board is very cold to the touch, and emanates into the home. This doesn't seem to be very efficient to me.

I'm pondering if there is a way to seal the outer tin. My workmate said to completely seal the siding would keep the walls from being able to aerate, or "breathe"; I'm sure though that to leave it with such unsealed openings as much as it is would be to continue sacrificing far too much heat exchange.

Can I seal it without destroying the aeration? If so, how so recommended on a tight budget?
Thanks so much anyone for your experienced insight.

[JD]

Can you tell us a little more bout this siding? Is this the typical old school mobile home vertical aluminum siding with ribbing going up and down? There has also been some homes built using very similar aluminum siding, only the panels run horizontal and only about 18" wide front top to bottom. This second type leaves joints every 8 feet or so that was originally "sealed" with a plastic "H" trim. This plastic disintegrates leaving the edges of the siding exposed.

Either way, you probably won't be creating an aeration problem as the siding still breathes at the top and probably at many of the screw holes. I do remember aeration problems way back in the 80's when home owners and some manufacturers would envelope the entire house in visqueen plastic to make them air tight. Many of these homes did end up with a moisture problem.

Ideally, the way to fix a gap in vertical aluminum siding is to remove 3-4 sheets of siding and reinstall, making sure that the male side of one sheet goes well into the lock on the panel next to it. They will spread apart over time due to the home being out of level and tweaking the panels out of place. There is usually enough slack in 3-4 panels to give you the extra length you need. You can also purchase a new and wider panel of siding and cut it to fit the area with a gap. One panel is TERRIBLY expensive though. Many panels is only VERY expensive. The shipping on one panel more than doubles the already high price.

Give us a better description of what you are working with of better yet, upload a pic.

[johnsinsight]

Can you tell us a little more bout this siding? Is this the typical old school mobile home vertical aluminum siding with ribbing going up and down?

Either way, you probably won't be creating an aeration problem as the siding still breathes at the top and probably at many of the screw holes.

Thanks so much for your answers.

The siding is vertical, probably aluminum the way it tears easily. I've included a few photos, the second one is the bottom area where it ends and hits the skirting. This is the area I'm speaking of sealing up. The first option I have for sealing it is the infamous "Great Stuff". My theory is to unscrew the siding, spray it in at the bottom edges, then tighten screws down. I believe first I would follow the method suggested above, by removing multiple panels to re-seat them all and stretch/tighten them.

I welcome your experienced comments.
-John

[JD]

Yes, this is the type of siding that can be pulled and reset to fit better, but in your pictures I am not seeing a separation at the seam.

[johnsinsight]

Groovy, glad to know it can be done. I suppose I will fill in old holes with something made for it, don't know the name yet. Waterproof caulk glue or some such...
The seam looked like an end curled under, where I suppose the next siding is curled also so they clasp together. It will be really nice to seal this up.
Are there miniature vents available to ensure it breathes? Or should I just not worry about it, and seal it up as aforementioned?

[Brenda (OH)]

check the under belly, be sure your belly wrap and insulation is good there, that is another common place that has problems.

I know it is a little thing, but have you looked at the foam insulation inserts that can be put in outlet boxes (under the cover plate)? it may cut the draft while you are going for the bigger solution of sealing up gaps.

you can caulk the vertical seams of the siding if needed. check the caulk around the windows too, the home looks old enough that there may be gaps.

I had an outdoor electrical outlet box caulking fail, and it let water go inside the wall and rot the floor, so that is something else to look for....

good luck, lots of little gains may add up

Brenda (OH)

[johnsinsight]

check the under belly, be sure your belly wrap and insulation is good there, that is another common place that has problems.

Brenda (OH)

Those are great suggestions; I will do the foam boxes nonetheless, since it 'all adds up' as you say.

I've a question about the bell wrap you mentioned, I'm not familiar with that. Is it plastic that seals between the wall and goes down to the underside?

[Brenda (OH)]

belly wrap is the slang term/semi-technical term for the breathable material that is under the mobile home, there is the floor of the mobile home, then insulation, then the "belly wrap" which is also called under belly material...

Brenda (OH)

[johnsinsight]

Thanks for those good ideas.

We actually have no underbelly wrap, so that's going to be some trouble. I wonder if there's a specific kind to use?

I've a question about SEALANT. On the siding, there are many screw holes to seal. I'm wondering what the best/longest lasting sealants are to use for this, that will adhere to the metal siding well?

[1987Commodore]

Do you have insulation under your floors? If not, there is a big reason why you are cold. I can't tell from your pictures if you have skirting.