Glass storm door FRAME only?

Melitta · Sun Dec 12, 2010 6:35 pm

It is becoming apparent to me that the part I am looking for is possibly not even available. I know the people on this forum are super informative, so I thought I'd post what I am looking for on here. I need just the FRAME for the glass storm door. The aluminum frame that screws onto the outside. The door is fine. Due to the storm door being almost 19 years old, the wear and tear of opening and closing have worn down the hollow tubing on the side that the hinges attach to. You know, the hollow tube the metal rod runs down the length of the frame and the hinges are attached. The hinges are wearing down the hollow tubing causing the door to drop, about 2 inches so far. This leaves a gap at the top of the storm door from the frame. We have to leave the regular front door closed at all times because of this gap. If the AC or heat turns on, you can literally feel it suck in the outside air throught that gap. I have not been able to find anyone who sells just the frame. Lowe's did have just frames, but they are to long and are also made for 4 hinges, not 3 like we have. A mobile home store here sells the door and frame. I don't want to buy a whole new door when mine is just fine. Anybody have any suggestions? Thank you so much!

Greg · Sun Dec 12, 2010 8:33 pm

A couple of ideas,Can you change to a standard hinge set? It will take some fabricating to do. Check Craig's list, there may be a few doors out there. Consider enlarging the door opening to a standard size door.

Your door may look fine, but if the hinge worn through the door is useless. Greg

Melitta · Sun Dec 12, 2010 9:24 pm

Is there a way to post a picture? I am guessing from the Lowe's employee, the problem we are having isn't very common as he made the comment, "Is your door that heavy?" A picture that I took would show exactly what I am talking about, if there is a way to post it.

Dean3 · Mon Dec 13, 2010 12:09 pm

Below the reply box there is "upload attachment" tab,,click it and then click the "browse" tab to search your picture files.

Dean3 · Mon Dec 13, 2010 12:14 pm

Oh yeah,make sure to use the "post reply" tab,I don't see the upload option when using the "quick reply" tab.

Melitta · Mon Dec 13, 2010 8:24 pm

Here is what I'm talking about and why we only need the frame.

Phone pictures 0545.jpg

Dean3 · Mon Dec 13, 2010 9:06 pm

Can you lift and hold the door to where you want it? Then measure the distance needed at each hinge for spacer tubes. Then take it apart and add spacer tubes cut to fit for length and sized to match the worn tube for inside and outside diameter. Not sure that would last another 19 years though! It would be a cheap fix if you DIY or have a very reasonable handyman. Polishing the ends of the spacers to reduce wear might be going too far for a temp fix but isn't out of the question I guess

. Keeping it oiled might be tough too if the rain can get at it to wash lubricant away.

Whatever you do,try to avoid buying a storm door with vinyl hinge rod/pins unless you have a reliable strong doorstop. The wind can catch the door and snap those vinyl pins like toothpicks when the closer piston reaches max. Dang ex roommate,dang vinyl pins,dang wind,cost me a brand new door! LOL. Now I installed a railing that doubles as the doorstop,the wind would have to flip the porch to break a hinge! LOL,works like a charm.

Melitta · Tue Dec 14, 2010 9:06 am

Yes, we can lift the door and hold it in the right spot. I have been thinking the same thing, some kind of spacer to slide in there, but I am not sure what to use or where I would even go to find something like that. I was even thinking a bunch of small metal washers piled up on top of each other to fill in the space. LOL. I can't believe that nobody sells just the frame for the door. It makes no sense to have to buy a whole new door for something like this.

Dean3 · Tue Dec 14, 2010 10:13 am

Tube,tube stock,maybe even some sort of line just so it isn't coiled,you need straight. Just try to match what is there for inside diameter where the rod/pin slides through,the outside diameter too so it fits and doesn't interfere,matching those should mean the wall thickness of the tube is right on or close enough. Hardware,farm & home,big box,plumbing supply,auto parts store,auto repair shop,metal fabrication shop,etc,anywhere that has a rigid tubing. Buy a length of it and use a hacksaw or tube cutter tool to make them. A tube cutter tool might give you the straightest cut.

Save the leftover tube for another project or buy some frozen peas and take aim at somebody with your new blowgun!

I will be amazed if you can find the correct hinged frame,utterly amazed. Good luck and good hunting.

reprosser · Wed Dec 15, 2010 3:43 pm

I wish you were closer to me (SC). I have just a glass door and frame that I am planning to take to the recycling center. I had to purchase a new whole set because of a problem with my core door. I think the mobile home philosophy is "nothing the same, everything is disposable - not replaceable".

Melitta · Wed Dec 15, 2010 5:16 pm

Thanks for everyone's help! I am going to see if I can go on a hunting mission this weekend and find something to use. But first, my water heater decided today it needed some attention. LOL. I replaced the top element and now have hot water, but it is seems like the hot water is running out a lot quicker than normal (50 gallon tank). I think we are just going to replace it, since our water leaves calcium and lime deposits and there is a ton of it sitting at the bottom of the heater. We have replaced the bottom element twice this year. I would be rich if I could invent a tool that would go inside the heater and suck out all the gunk. LOL. A water softner is in the plans after the new year! Again, thanks to all who replied. I will post back if I find something that works.

Brenda (OH) · Thu Dec 16, 2010 10:53 pm

do some research, there are water heaters that swirl the water inside as it fills (and empties?) that let less sediment settle.

you can take a couple of gallons out of the drain of the water heater every month to also help limit the amount of sediment that builds up, until you can get that water softener.

Brenda

johnnysplace2k · Sun Dec 19, 2010 10:07 am

I know this got a bit off topic and went into a water heater problem...
I had that same issue with my water heater, So i turned of the power, Drained the water heater, Removed the bottom element, Used a wet/dry shop vac and used about a 1.5 inch diameter, 2 foot long piece of clear aquarium type tubing duct taped to the end of the vac hose and inserted it into the opening where the bottom element was and just sucked out all of the built up sediment..
Worked great, The first time it took about an hour to get it all out but now i do it once a year an it only takes a few minutes.
John