Trim the bottom of new exterior doors

[Lorne]

I want to install (or have it done) 2 exterior pre-hung combo door units in our enclosed porch. The porch is standard construction, not the aluminum porch style.

The height is the problem, because they are both about 79-1/2" high.
Is their a brand that can be trimmed off at the bottom.

[flcruising]

Are there floor finishes to contend with?

I suppose you could trim the door size down - http://www.mobilehomerepair.com/article13.html

[Lorne]

I just realized that the present threshold is part of my measurement and it woild be removed to mount the pre-hung door which has it's own threshold.

I will eventually be adding 1/2" plywood and Pergo to the porch floor, which is only 1/4" over 2x6 underfloor. Originally supposed to be a plain open porch with spacing between the planking. Somewhere along the way the owner decided to enclose the whole thing.

The drywall barely hit the floor and I could see daylight every 6", so I caulked the stuffing out of it. I love caulking.

As soon as I remove the drywall around the door I'll be able to see how he did the studding.

DSCF4634 (Small).JPG

This is what I will have when finished.

Looks like it's chopping time again. Wifey loves my messes.

[HouseMedic]

IF you are installing a complete exterior door unit the pergo and maybe the plywood should not go under the door threshold. The thresholds are ruffly an 1 1/4" up from the floor to give room for the door to open over carpet. If I remember right the smallest opening from top to bottom with the standard 80" door is around 81". (you can measure them at the store) If you have a 79 1/2" ruff opening now and it is not a load bearing wall I don't think it would hurt to just use a saws all to cut about 3/4" off of the header that is now above the door.

[Lorne]

Update:
I cut away the trim molding around both doors and find that both have double 2x4 headers plus a cripple and king stud, so the guy did it right.

The surround paneling I find is 1/8" mush board, vinyl covered, under a lot of paint.
As soon as I get to Lowe's and see what they have in stock I can decide.

The height now measures 81", ignoring the threshhold height, because it will be cut out.
Wasn't a proper type either.

DSCF4641 (Small).JPG

This was the only type he had I guess, which isn't too secure nor does it keep out the cold either. same on the back porch, but a little wider.

A work in progress.

[HouseMedic]

If you have 81" now with the double 2x4 you will be able to cut a little of the header to make the new door frame fit. You can also cut the new door frame at the top sides if the frame extends past the end corners, But leave about 1/4" of the side frame board extending past the top frame piece if this is the type that you get. With most doors minimum height should be around 81 1/2" for the overall ruff opening height for a standard 80" door so you will have to cut the 2x4 header up about 3/4" so the door will fit. When you say "The height now measures 81", ignoring the threshold height," are you measuring from the floor up? With a new complete door unit the threshold is part of the frame assembly so you want to measure from the floor (not including flooring, Hardwood, Tile, Laminate, Ect..)to the bottom of the 2x4 header. I hope this does not confuse you more. If you need anything else clarified just ask.

Ron

[flcruising]

Yea, I'm still confused as to where you are measuring your opening height...?
If 81" is from the header to the subfloor, then you can probably fit a 6-8 door in there just fine. Won't have as much wiggle room, but I think you'd be doable without cutting anything.

[HouseMedic]

All of the door units that I have installed measure out at 81 1/2" high ruff opening.
So from the sub floor to the bottom of the header needs 81 1/2" minimum and it would be snug.
Either way it is do-able.

[Lorne]

Yes, I meant from the sub floor. It's going to fit. Oh yeah.

[Lorne]

I pulled down a section of the wall paneling next to the door.
I found that the header is 2 2x4's stacked and toe nailed on either end into the 2 vertical studs instead of onto a cripple. No cripples, just 2 studs nailed together.

I also found the old doorbell transformer, not used in years, BUT STILL WARM and connected to the 120. WOOF. Lord knows how long it's been in the wall.
I have wireless doorbells now.
Guy coming today to give me an estimate on installing 2 doors and 2 windows. He charges by the job and not by the hour. I'll get the stuff at HD.

Looks like Cutin time again.

[JD]

Just a comment on bid vs hourly. All standard installs and most repairs should be a bid situation. Plumbing and electrical repairs (not installs) and unusual repairs and installs where it is truly impossible to determine an APPROXIMATE price is usually done on a Time & Materials basis. Window and door installs would almost always be a bid situation. If you are paying pro prices, expect pro experience and service. Just my opinion.

[Lorne]

Well, I called Andy on Call and got a call back a couple of days later saying he would come out to estimate on a friday. NO SHOW.
He called 2 days later and said he forgot to come over.....Right.

A few more days and said he would be over after his job was finished on Saturday. NO SHOW. Haven't heard back since.

Since the steel door unit is heavy and I work alone (maybe wife can lift too) I will get the door and cut 4 square 1/4" plywood squares, 1 for each corner and pin nail them to keep the frame square, then unhinge the door from the frame. SEE, I SMART.

If I fail,we can always board up the doorway and say a wind storm blew out the door. SEE,I REALLY SMART.

I was taught that you should do everything yourself, but this OLD AGE stuff got in the way.

Have a great turkey day and have some brewskeys for me.