My BF and I have a double wide (28' x 66') that is in need of a complete interior renovation. Before we begin, we have a few questions..
We plan to rip out all the paneling, and put in sheetrock but we're unsure about what size we can use. We also were thinking of replacing all the windows, but wondered if you have to use special windows meant for a manufactured home? Can you install stick-built home kitchen cabinets, light fixtures, etc? Can the floor support it? Can walls be taken down, or are they supporting the roof?
Pictures can be seen here.. http://www.flickr.com/photos/48104066@N ... 973261965/
Any help would be GREATLY appreciated! Thanks so much!
Total Renovation Possible?
Moderators: Greg, Mark, mhrAJ333, JD
Wow! Your home looks to be in great shape! You'll have other posts but my motto: if it ain't broke, don't fix it. Sometimes removing walls, that don't need to be moved can open up a can of worms...when there aren't any worms...if you know what I mean.
IF you have great insulation already, I'd reconsider the sheetrock. It looks like some elbow grease and some finishes like paint, wallpaper, woodwork, and just basically cosmetic changes would do.
I have a '67 that I had to rip down paneling and rip up flooring...but that was due to rot and critters living in the walls. Insulation was basically gone.
What I've learned is-
windows can be replaced using different sizes- you just must ensure you have the correct support, framing done. Same goes with doors.
cabinets, light fixtures, etc can be the same for manufactured homes just like stick built; however- weight is a concern. So before you add all the sheetrock that you wanted, and some granite countertops, and wall to wall heavy cabinets- check your foundation. And be careful.
I had custom cabinets built into the kitchen and have done my reno with things from Lowes/Home Depot.
Keep us posted with your progress and photos.
IF you have great insulation already, I'd reconsider the sheetrock. It looks like some elbow grease and some finishes like paint, wallpaper, woodwork, and just basically cosmetic changes would do.
I have a '67 that I had to rip down paneling and rip up flooring...but that was due to rot and critters living in the walls. Insulation was basically gone.
What I've learned is-
windows can be replaced using different sizes- you just must ensure you have the correct support, framing done. Same goes with doors.
cabinets, light fixtures, etc can be the same for manufactured homes just like stick built; however- weight is a concern. So before you add all the sheetrock that you wanted, and some granite countertops, and wall to wall heavy cabinets- check your foundation. And be careful.
I had custom cabinets built into the kitchen and have done my reno with things from Lowes/Home Depot.
Keep us posted with your progress and photos.
When you mention weight being a concern, do you mean for the material that is used on the floors itself, or for the house in general? I know that probably doesn't sound right, but I mean like, is the concern something breaking through the subflooring from being too heavy?
The trailer definitely has major potential to be super, super nice. It's in an extremely remote area, with tons of land too which is just perfect to us (we love, LOVE the country).
Here's the current floorplan:
We want to take out all the walls separating out the kitchen, living room, dining room, and den, and have a nice wide open feel when you first walk in. Especially with the pitched ceiling, we think it's going to open up a ton.
What are some things to look for in the foundation? We saw that it looked like some of the vinyl on the outside of the home was buckled towards the bottom, but the brick (skirting?) around the bottom looks to be in good shape.. No cracks, straight, no bricks missing, etc.. None of the floors inside the home creak, dip down, etc..
The home was a foreclosure though, and the family who had it prior to us ripped everything they could out. In some areas, it looks almost like a motor oil type substance was just flung all over the walls. It's a shame, because the location is seriously to die for if you like privacy and quiet.
Will definitely keep adding updates as we go!
The trailer definitely has major potential to be super, super nice. It's in an extremely remote area, with tons of land too which is just perfect to us (we love, LOVE the country).
Here's the current floorplan:
We want to take out all the walls separating out the kitchen, living room, dining room, and den, and have a nice wide open feel when you first walk in. Especially with the pitched ceiling, we think it's going to open up a ton.
What are some things to look for in the foundation? We saw that it looked like some of the vinyl on the outside of the home was buckled towards the bottom, but the brick (skirting?) around the bottom looks to be in good shape.. No cracks, straight, no bricks missing, etc.. None of the floors inside the home creak, dip down, etc..
The home was a foreclosure though, and the family who had it prior to us ripped everything they could out. In some areas, it looks almost like a motor oil type substance was just flung all over the walls. It's a shame, because the location is seriously to die for if you like privacy and quiet.
Will definitely keep adding updates as we go!
Hi & welcome. I would stay away from the center (marriage) wall, It is a loaded wall. I'm not saying it can't be modified, but I would get a professional opinion before hand.
Windows, there are two school's of thought here. Some use replacement windows, you will need to special order the correct sizes most likely. I like to use new construction windows, slightly larger than what you have and reframe to fit.
Cabinets, go with a good quality cabinet weight should not be an issue. I would use 1/2" sheetrock, again weight should not be an issue.
The first thing you may want to do is relevel the home before any repairs are started. If the home is not level to start with, all repairs will be off as well. Greg
Windows, there are two school's of thought here. Some use replacement windows, you will need to special order the correct sizes most likely. I like to use new construction windows, slightly larger than what you have and reframe to fit.
Cabinets, go with a good quality cabinet weight should not be an issue. I would use 1/2" sheetrock, again weight should not be an issue.
The first thing you may want to do is relevel the home before any repairs are started. If the home is not level to start with, all repairs will be off as well. Greg
"If I can't fix it, I can screw it up so bad no one else can either."
Thanks for the suggestions!
Do you think columns would be a solution to taking the walls down? We actually went and walked through one of those model double wides, with top of the line everything, and their ceilings were slanted like ours, but the entire living/eating space was wide open, no walls. We were trying to duplicate the open feeling it had, but I'm sure it could have been constructed differently.
I noticed, and this could actually be standard, but it seems like the windows were very deep, or almost double lined in the home we have. If you look here:
and the other side of those windows is here:
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4055/462 ... 9188_b.jpg
It's like there's a double layer of glass or something weird.. Is that normal?
Do you think columns would be a solution to taking the walls down? We actually went and walked through one of those model double wides, with top of the line everything, and their ceilings were slanted like ours, but the entire living/eating space was wide open, no walls. We were trying to duplicate the open feeling it had, but I'm sure it could have been constructed differently.
I noticed, and this could actually be standard, but it seems like the windows were very deep, or almost double lined in the home we have. If you look here:
and the other side of those windows is here:
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4055/462 ... 9188_b.jpg
It's like there's a double layer of glass or something weird.. Is that normal?
They look like standard "Trailer" windows to me. They are actually 2 single hung windows on opposite sides of the window jams. If that is the case and you are in a colder area, get rid of them. It is one step from impossible to get them to seal air (and water) tight. Many here upgrade to a quality double hung window, like Anderson or Pella the same windows found in stick built homes.
You MAY be able to use a column, but it may require beefing up the headers. Again I would talk to a professional or contact the manufacturer for their thoughts. Remember that that wall supports the roof, any movement from weakness may result in at best leakage and if you are in a snow zone collapse. I am not saying that it is impossible, but proceed with extreme caution. The little you may spend on a professional before, may save thousands later. Greg
You MAY be able to use a column, but it may require beefing up the headers. Again I would talk to a professional or contact the manufacturer for their thoughts. Remember that that wall supports the roof, any movement from weakness may result in at best leakage and if you are in a snow zone collapse. I am not saying that it is impossible, but proceed with extreme caution. The little you may spend on a professional before, may save thousands later. Greg
"If I can't fix it, I can screw it up so bad no one else can either."
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TappanTrailer
- Posts: 17
- Joined: Sun Feb 22, 2009 2:45 pm
- Location: Alviso CA
Hi Shaeness,
I'm going to be removing some load bearing walls in my double wide, and cutting out a section of an outside wall, and recessing my entryway into the house. Check SC permitting process to see what is needed. I can tell you that here in CA, because I'm removing a load bearing wall, increasing the width of some windows, and creating additional openings in the outside walls, I was required to have my plans done by a structural engineer.
Similar to your idea of opening up your kitchen space to the dining/living area, that is somewhat the same idea I'll be doing and where the load bearing wall will be removed. To accommodate removal, I have to add additional piers underneath, and put in a substantial header and posts in the opposing end walls to hold it up in order to create the clear span space.
If you go the structural engineering route, the engineer will come to your house and thoroughly inspect it's current construction, including your trusses, joists, etc, to determine how to construct the changes so your home is safe, and will last after the modifications. In CA, structural engineers have to be licensed by the state, and are liable if your home falls in on you after they create your plans and the home has been permitted, built to their specifications, and inspected once it is complete.
It isn't cheap to have done - but probably would be less expensive in SC than here in CA. My complete set of blue prints, including the electrical, plumbing, and structural changes, cost $4000. But, the good news is, I am now get my building permits and also feel confident that my structural engineer (his firm works 90% in the modular or mobile home industry) was thorough and he made every change I wanted happen and designed the construction so that it will pass code.
Food for thought for you - I definitely agree you need to consult with a professional before tearing out any of these load bearing walls.
Best of luck with your project!
I'm going to be removing some load bearing walls in my double wide, and cutting out a section of an outside wall, and recessing my entryway into the house. Check SC permitting process to see what is needed. I can tell you that here in CA, because I'm removing a load bearing wall, increasing the width of some windows, and creating additional openings in the outside walls, I was required to have my plans done by a structural engineer.
Similar to your idea of opening up your kitchen space to the dining/living area, that is somewhat the same idea I'll be doing and where the load bearing wall will be removed. To accommodate removal, I have to add additional piers underneath, and put in a substantial header and posts in the opposing end walls to hold it up in order to create the clear span space.
If you go the structural engineering route, the engineer will come to your house and thoroughly inspect it's current construction, including your trusses, joists, etc, to determine how to construct the changes so your home is safe, and will last after the modifications. In CA, structural engineers have to be licensed by the state, and are liable if your home falls in on you after they create your plans and the home has been permitted, built to their specifications, and inspected once it is complete.
It isn't cheap to have done - but probably would be less expensive in SC than here in CA. My complete set of blue prints, including the electrical, plumbing, and structural changes, cost $4000. But, the good news is, I am now get my building permits and also feel confident that my structural engineer (his firm works 90% in the modular or mobile home industry) was thorough and he made every change I wanted happen and designed the construction so that it will pass code.
Food for thought for you - I definitely agree you need to consult with a professional before tearing out any of these load bearing walls.
Best of luck with your project!
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TappanTrailer
- Posts: 17
- Joined: Sun Feb 22, 2009 2:45 pm
- Location: Alviso CA
Forgot to add - I also elected to get permits (many many people don't permit here in CA, at their own risk) to preserve some additional saleability of my home later. No one will have to wonder if my house is safe when they purchase, because they will know that every wall, window, door, electrical, plumbing, and the structural changes are to code and were signed off by the building dept. and the engineer.
More food for thought
More food for thought
Thanks for the info about permits!
We're still in the planning phase, so we have a while before we actually start anything..
So, I'm playing around on some home design software, and it made me think of something. Since the kitchen needs new cabinets and appliances, how hard is it to change the position of where the stove, sink, and dish washer are already? All electric appliances.
We're still in the planning phase, so we have a while before we actually start anything..
So, I'm playing around on some home design software, and it made me think of something. Since the kitchen needs new cabinets and appliances, how hard is it to change the position of where the stove, sink, and dish washer are already? All electric appliances.
Shouldn't be any problems. The only problem you may find is at the edge of the door where the striker latch comes through. Some Mobile home doors do not use screws in the door edge plate. If this is your case you may need to look a little harder to find that style lock set. Greg
"If I can't fix it, I can screw it up so bad no one else can either."
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Brenda (OH)
- Posts: 325
- Joined: Sun Apr 01, 2007 7:57 am
the kwik set multipak, $35 TO $50 approx. depends on the finish, is a great set to use.
2 deadbolts, 2 regular locks, adjust to fit the two most common knob width settings (how far the knob is from the edge of the door) by twisting part of one part of the lock. or moving a little switch. (two types of locks, two types of mechanisms lol) this gives you 4 locks that work off the same key. the set comes with 4 keys.
it also includes the feature that you can pop the plate part off and put the circular ring on it for the part I think Greg is referring to. this is for the regular lock piece that goes sideways from the edge of the door into the interior of the door....
ok, what I am trying to say is, I have replaced existing locks on older homes with this set, and not had to worry about door thicknesses, circular cut out in edge of door vs recessed rectangle, etc.
the worse thing I have run into is trying to add a deadbolt, I have a template you screw on the edge of the door and a lot of the metal doors have an extra rim that keeps the device from lining up like it does for a wooden door with a flat edge. Someday I will figure out how to cut a groove in the template thing that will let it go over the rim, just not today lol.
Brenda (OH)
2 deadbolts, 2 regular locks, adjust to fit the two most common knob width settings (how far the knob is from the edge of the door) by twisting part of one part of the lock. or moving a little switch. (two types of locks, two types of mechanisms lol) this gives you 4 locks that work off the same key. the set comes with 4 keys.
it also includes the feature that you can pop the plate part off and put the circular ring on it for the part I think Greg is referring to. this is for the regular lock piece that goes sideways from the edge of the door into the interior of the door....
ok, what I am trying to say is, I have replaced existing locks on older homes with this set, and not had to worry about door thicknesses, circular cut out in edge of door vs recessed rectangle, etc.
the worse thing I have run into is trying to add a deadbolt, I have a template you screw on the edge of the door and a lot of the metal doors have an extra rim that keeps the device from lining up like it does for a wooden door with a flat edge. Someday I will figure out how to cut a groove in the template thing that will let it go over the rim, just not today lol.
Brenda (OH)
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