Roofing repair question JD or Mark?

[Johanna Bruns]

Hi, it's been a while.

When I got into really repairing my trailer, we determined that the only thing that made sense was to take a Sawzall to small sections of the wall and cut it completely out (floor to ceiling) to rebuild with 2x4 walls. I don't use the factory aluminum wiring, so that 's not an issue. I was able to buy a large amount of Hardipanel 4x8 sheets to reside with.

Here's the issue:
The edge of the roofing doesn't accept the Hardipanel underneath without bowing out.
I'm looking for good ways to refasten and seal the edge.

At present, here's my plan:
Nail drip edge to the wall so the wide edge extends under the edge of the old roofing, after I've straightened it as much as possible. Support that with 1x4 laid narrow side up with 4x4"angle flashing sandwiched between it and the wall. Screw down more 1x4 on top of the roofing near the edge of the old roof, for more straightening, then remove the 1x4 and put the screws back in the holes. Use a wire wheel on the area and cover it with Peel 'N Stick, maybe warm it a bit with a blow dryer to encourage bonding. We rarely get snow or ice here so no worry there.

I'm open to suggestion. A strong cold front with high winds and rain is coming in the morning, and I'll be ready to start the roof section in early afternoon (25 ft, can do).

TIA
Johanna

[JD]

Sorry for the late reply. I flew to WA to be at my daughter's wedding. Still here actually. Anyways, I am assuming you had aluminum siding before, because the hardie should fit in the same space as hardboard if that was what you had. I could see how trying to get the metal folded back over the thicker panel could be difficult. It is still the best way to go as long as the screw holes don't end up to high near the edge of the new panels. You might be able to trim off some of the panels so that they end up about 1/2" lower on the wall. This may give you better angle to get the roof metal to lay down.

If this just won't work, I would next be looking to use regular siding Z-bar metal to "cap" the top of the siding. The top part of the Z would go under the new roof. But before I did that, I would install the siding, being sure that it still has that 1/2" or so lower level to make room to install the Z bar. There needs to be solid wood behind that very top edge of the siding also. If the top plate of the wall framing ends up to high, you can sister 2x2 or 2x4 between the studs, nailed to the top plate and studs. This way you can put in the required fasteners for the Hardie panels. I would also run a bead of polyurethane or butyl rubber calk behind this top edge to seal it.

Then I would use putty tape (dark gray butyl, not the standard light gray) on the top front side of the Z bar and slide that under the roof metal. You can tack down the metal first with a couple of roofing nails to hold it in place, put the putty tape on and then bend down the roof metal and nail that down real good. Actually, I would use a 1" roofing staple gun. Then more putty tape behing the new drip rail and attach that over your nails or staples.

Anyways, that is what I would think up in your situation. Maybe that will give you some ideas. one hint here. You can bend that roof metal down nice and flat by putting a 12" piece of 2x4 on top of it and banging it with a heavy framing hammer. 28oz will do.

Hope this helps.

JD

[Johanna Bruns]

Weddings of children trump everything, don't they? Congratulations!!

As usual, I bit off more than I can chew, so the roof still needs that attention. It was still in place when I got home this evening, so it's all good.

Yes, the old siding is aluminum, and will become skirting.
Most of the top siding is in place, but I've found that if you score it (I've had the best results with the siding screws) it can be broken off fairly smooth with care. After having argued with it for a while, I think that capping the siding with Z-bar is the best suggestion yet. No problems with the wood in this area, it's the raised roof portion that was so popular at the time. Now, if they'd just raised the ceiling in that area as well...

I picked up some neoprene caulk on the way home, can it be used instead of the dark gray butyl (simply because I'd have to hunt for it; I can get neoprene at Lowe's)?

I'll rent a roofing staple gun tomorrow-- I'll have the afternoon to work on it.
Also, my weapon of choice is a 32 oz. mason's sledge, it just feels right. 2x4 for a straightener board sounds good, too.

Thanks so much, now go have fun! I'll keep you posted.

[JD]

Most any long lasting caulk material will work as the part that seals will not be in the sun. I like the butyl rubber tape because you are assured a continuous adequate seal with no holes or light areas. This is also what the manufacturers of mobile homes and RVs use.

JD

[Johanna Bruns]

JD,

I'm weathertight, at least!

The close hardware store was out of Z-flashing, and the truck was tied up, so here's what I did:

Sealed the seams of siding to be covered with polyurethene,then installed the angle flashing under the roofing with the long side covering the siding. Under this is polyurethene on the roof side and neoprene on the front. I didn't trim the siding back as it turned out that I didn't need to.

I then pulled down and fastened the roof with washered screws, with a careful bead of neoprene underneath. I haven't found dark butyl tape anywhere local or at Mark's store. I should find some by mid-December, when I've got time to put up the drip edge and trim. I'll replace the washered screws with the Simpson flat heads and seal them when I do, but I'm not going to disturb the other work. It rained buckets the other day and it passed with flying colors!

BTW, where do you get the dark butyl?

Thanks so much...
Johanna