14 x 70 Renovations

Repair help for the do-it-yourselfer.
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Robert
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Location: Tennessee

Hi David,

They build them from bottom up and anything that falls into belly area when cutting or framing flooring , etc. is usually left there.


One of the best places to find stuff left is atop the kitchen cabinets.


Also inside walls, I found a lunch sack once, LOL.


Oconee County, SC :


Devils Fork with Lake Jocassee and also Lake Keowee, can't leave them out.


ALL of that and the mountain areas on Walhalla side were in my area of patrol when I was a Deputy. Had all that area down to halfway point between Walhalla and Seneca by myself.


Take care and best wishes,
Robert
Some people are Humbly Grateful, while some are Grumbly Hateful.................... Which one are you ?
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DavidW
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Joined: Tue Jan 22, 2008 3:56 pm
Location: Upcountry, S.C.

Robt.,

Thanks for the explanation on the scrap lumber I'm finding in the belly.

************************

"Devils Fork with Lake Jocassee and also Lake Keowee, can't leave them out."

The purchase of a good used, dependable boat is on the agenda. A trip to those lakes will be put on the itinerary.

But first, I've got to finsh this phase of the M.H. renovations.

**********************
Back to the renovations.

Due to bad weather, the carport company did not show up. They didn't let me know until almost evening. The carport now will not be installed for over another week. I think they are having trouble getting a full load to send a crew out on a route. Just have to wait.

The concrete was poured yesterday. The crew used a laser level (expensive looking rig) to ensure the correct level and slope for water run off. The concete slab looks good and was finished with a light broom so it is smoother than a driveway but a little roughness for anti-skid purposes. The slab looks good. I appreciate their attention to details.

The siding company started yesterday, also.

The insulation board is going on first. The OEM "drip channel" (a metal channel feature that runs the length of the M.H., about one foot below the roof eave) will have to be cut off in order for the siding to lay flat.

The installer tried to "mash" it flat with a hammer, but it wasn't flat enough.

The insulation board, about 1/4" thick, is suppose to have the same properties as one inch thick fiberglass insulation. It looks like this insulation board is there to not only help insulate the M.H., but also to protect the vinyl siding from the OEM metal siding, which gets hot in the sun.

Adequate clearance is going to be left for R & R of windows, doors, etc.. I made a point about this because some of the windows need replacing (seals going bad, a bad window tint job).

The windows should have been done before the siding. My error. There are so many windows with different features and sources out there, it will take some earnest research to decide on which to go with.

The siding job will take until this next Monday to finish. What siding has been installed looks real good.

A "BTW" note on siding installation: It's a good idea to remove pictures and things from shelves mounted to the inside walls before the installer starts hammering away.

More to come.
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DavidW
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Joined: Tue Jan 22, 2008 3:56 pm
Location: Upcountry, S.C.

Another note on installing siding on a M.H..

The installer told me about having to locate where the electrical wires run in a horizontal metal channel or conduit in the walls. (maybe someone with M.H. electrical experience could say what the correct name and construct of this).

He has to make sure nails do not go into this and cause a short. He said this conduit (or whatever it is) is at the same elevation all around the M.H..
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DavidW
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Joined: Tue Jan 22, 2008 3:56 pm
Location: Upcountry, S.C.

Follow-up on the automatic vents in the skrting:

Neither I, or the CertainTeed skirting installer could find a suitable manually operated vent with a maximum depth of 2" so as not to hit the frame. The openings he cut were 8" x 15".

He came back with the first auto-vents and suggested we snap off the protuding auto-vent feature, that would leave a vent with no flaps. The auto-vent is some kind of plastic, same as the vent flange and is "spot welded" in six places to the flange. He said the auto-vent pops off with a little prying, so we took one apart. It came apart easily with no damage to the visible side of the flange.

I then discovered the auto-vent fit perfectly into the recessed area on the front face of the vent. I think it was designed this way possibly for the same problem we encountered with the frame ends.

Just flip the auto-vent sub-assembly around, 180 deg. (make sure the top of the auto-vent is still facing up) and hand press it into the front of the flange.

The installer then fastened the four vents normally and then the auto-vents were hand pressed in place, followed up with some clear silicone to ensure they stayed in place.

This seems to be a reasonable solution, though the auto-vent feature does protrude about 1 1/4" from the flange. Being the same color as the flange, and having a grill to cover the flaps, it doesn't look too bad.

The skirting job is complete, with (12) working auto-vents, temperature actuated.

*****************************

Follow-up on M.H. leveling:

While finishing the under belly patching, I noticed a couple of the piers had only one wedge rather than the two (one from each side) I also found one pier where the wedges were not even tight. I tapped them in with a hammer, then called the leveler about the single wedges. (the leveler said he used two wedge system where ever wedges were needed)

He is to return and correct the problem.
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DavidW
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Joined: Tue Jan 22, 2008 3:56 pm
Location: Upcountry, S.C.

I thought I'd be posting the 'Before' and 'After' photos by now.

The siding job is going into the eighth day and the company is saying it won't be done until this next Monday. Most of the time it's one man working by himself. Occassionally, another one joins him.

He is doing a good job, though. The fit and finish is good. The M.H. is looking good, mostly because I knew what the place looked like 'Before'.

I like the way they are doing the new porch light mounts. It's study and is thoughly sealed so water can't leak back and get between the walls and rot wood.

New cast aluminum, brown anodised decore porch lights have been installed. Antique looking and seem to be sturdy.

The carport was finally installed yesterday. The concrete is sufficiently cured to park on.
I let it cure for a week before parking on it.

The same company doing the siding is trying to sell me on eight new windows. Quote is $3,000 installed. That's high, but they are well designed windows. All the parts come out easily for cleaning and/or replacement.

Windows will have to wait until next year. I need to do more investigating and get more quotes.
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DavidW
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Location: Upcountry, S.C.

The siding job was finally completed yesterday.
The company owner apologised for it taking ten working days.

But the siding looks good (Mastic brand). Fit and finish is good.

This completes the major repairs and renovations for this year. There are still a few minor projects such aas adding an additional outside outlet, connecting the new outside faucet in the back, etc.

The M.H. re-leveler still has not come back and fixed the wedges. He won't return my calls.

I won't be hiring him again, and I need to investigate these set-up people better.

Where would the best place to put the 'Before' and 'After' photos?
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DavidW
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Joined: Tue Jan 22, 2008 3:56 pm
Location: Upcountry, S.C.

There are now a few 'Before' and 'After' photos in the Exterior album.

I'll post a few more next time I'm on a WiFi connection. (Out here in the country, there is no cable, WiFi or DSL, and satellite accounts are difficult to get.)
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DavidW
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Joined: Tue Jan 22, 2008 3:56 pm
Location: Upcountry, S.C.

It's been several weeks since this year's renovations were completed.

Three observations:

1. It's much quieter inside the M.H. with the new insulation and siding. The siding "creaked" for a few days after the job was finished, right after sundown, as the temp outside dropped. But seems to have settled in and no longer makes noise. (My other home has always had siding creak)

2. With night time temps dropping into the upper 40's, the inside is staying at 68 - 70 degrees F. all night. I don't anticipate using the heat until sometime in Nov.. It seems noticeably warmer.

3. A light fog of condensate is now showing up on the windows by morning. It dissipates in a couple of hours. I did not see this before the renovations. Is this going to be a problem?

Comments and feedback appreciated on the fogging.
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Greg
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A light fog may indicate a high humidity condition, perhaps a dehumidifier would help. Greg
"If I can't fix it, I can screw it up so bad no one else can either."
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Yanita
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Hi,

I don't always understand all that I know...but I can say this happened to us as well. With all the insulation upgrades and new siding your home is more air tight than it used to be. Until you can get your new windows in make sure to use the stove vent when cooking, bathroom vents when showering and bathing, and let each run at least a 1/2 hour after your done each task.

Does your home currently have the traditional MH storm windows? If not make sure that you caulk around each window. I also found that using those window plastic covering kits...the ones that you use the hair dryer on work wonders and help reduce the condensation.

It's great when you get all these projects done and you realize in short time that it was so worth the time, aggravation, and expense. I know after we did several upgrades that first winter following it all was sooo much warmer and cheaper in utilities.

Congrats on all your hard work!

Yanita
The difference between success and failure is who gives up first!
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DavidW
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Joined: Tue Jan 22, 2008 3:56 pm
Location: Upcountry, S.C.

Yantia/Greg,

Thank you for your replies.

This 14 x 70 still has the OEM metal track window, 30" x 54". No storm windows at all.

Other than not being energy efficient, the windows work well (tracks are smooth operating) and the seals are still good.

I'm planning on good quality double pane windows with screens that have their own track.

Since I made the comment about the fogging, I haven't had any! It must have been a "last-of-the-warm-weather" quirk (I do not use the a/c in this M.H.). (The windows open during the day, captivating daytime high humidity from outside, when closed at night.) I've not had the windows open at all lately.

I do need to do a little landscaping. The M.H. is on a slight slope and I do get some water run-off going under the M.H., plus there are no gutters and the roof water adds to the problem.

Analyzing this water problem, I'm going to try to fix it by diverting the run-off first. I don't want to put down a vapor barrier yet. I reason a barrier at this point may captivate the water and retain it and may cause the dirt around the support piers to soften and allow the home to get out of level again.

As it is, it dries up in a day or so.

When the run-off problem is fixed, then I'll put down a vapor barrier.

Thanks for the help from this great forum!

The belly did receive a pretty thorough repair, and apparently is acting as a vapor barrier.
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