Underbelly Repairs

Repair help for the do-it-yourselfer.
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busybee1952

I'm facing a huge underbelly repair project which was beginning to look like I'd have to sell my car to afford! Someone gave me idea for a cheap repair that I thought I should share. They suggested that I find some used paneling to hold up the insulation once that is installed. The paneling can be cut to fit on the lips of the undergirding and bungee cords can also be hooked underneath for added stability. If a future repair job presents itself, it's not hard to just remove bungee cord and piece of paneling to access the spot that needs repair.
Ok, it's not rodent proof as we all know mice can chew through paneling in a heartbeat and it could certainly sag if it got too moist but it's free if you have a source of used paneling!
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Yanita
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Hi Busybee,

Personally it is not something I would use. First of all it will retain any moisture in the air therefore possible mold and mildew issues will arise. As you said it also will not be a deterrent to bugs and rodents.

I also do not think that you could get a good snug fit around plumbing, electrical etc underneath to prevent the cold air from getting in and the heat getting out, thus you will freeze up again next winter. Your underbelly material needs to be able to breath as well.

I understand that not everyone has the financial means to repair/replace items as they should be, making the free or really cheap replacements sound good.

Do you have any friends in the housing construction business, I think Tyvek house wrap would be better, but still not as good as the actual underbelly material.

Sorry for the negativity, but just think that it would be alot of work for something that will not work well.

JMO,

~Yanita~
The difference between success and failure is who gives up first!
lrjester

To any and all......check to see if you have a local Habitat Restore store! They have all sorts of home supplies, new, recycled, contructions extras, etc. Here is the main website;

http://www.habitat.org/cd/env/restore.aspx


It might be worth checking out.
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Greg
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Busybee, Yanita is right about the moisture issue. you will need to make sure that the skirting is tight to keep the critters out, that is the first line of defence. Greg
"If I can't fix it, I can screw it up so bad no one else can either."
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Robert
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Also remember that untreated wood of any kind combined with moisture is an open buffet for termites.

They would come like bees to honey.

A good tarp would be better for a temporary fix , but it too would not hold up long or prevent any rodents/critters.

Take care and best wishes,
Robert
Some people are Humbly Grateful, while some are Grumbly Hateful.................... Which one are you ?
busybee1952

Really, my main concern is the moisture. I can get bundles of syrofoam which are all different thicknesses but come in 4 x 8 sheets for $50.00 a bundle which is about all one could put in a regular sized pick up truck. Sometimes, they even have a deal where you can buy one and get one free. The thicknesses range from 1" to 3". My plan was to install some vents in the skirting which is metal (like pole barn metal) and to install the syrofoam behind the skirting. I'm pretty sure I won't have any further freeze up problems. I base my final decisions on the fact that I'm 55 years old and must do all the work by myself and my trailer is 23 years old so therefore, neither one of us will be around in another 20 years! In fact, I fully expect that my trailer won't be around in another 10 years. So, how long does it take for termites to eat a trailer and have it cave in on you? How long before mold and mildew take over and eat you in your sleep?
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Yanita
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Hi Busybee,

Well with that said you have made your choice. We gave opinions and advice as you asked...might suggest one more thing though. If your home does not have a vapor barrier underneath then I suggest you put one down. This is something you could handle. A vapor barrier is nothing more than a 6ml plastic, (color does not matter) laid on the ground from end to end side to side. Make sure you over lap the edges well and tape together. Also be sure the plastic is snug to all support piers. This will greatly reduce any ground moisture that maybe under your home. It also helps keep bugs under ground as well.

Have a great day...

~Yanita~
The difference between success and failure is who gives up first!
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JD
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Hi Pat,

Everyone here has already given you very sound advice. The right stuff to use is mobile home belly material available through this web site. You will find it under the Books & Parts link above. At 30 cents a square foot, it is also one of the cheapest new materials you could get.

Hope this works out for you.

JD
☯JD♫
Today is PERFECT!

All information and advice given is for entertainment and informational purposes only. The person doing the work is solely responsible to insure that their work complies with their local building code and OSHA safety regulations.
busybee1952

My mobile home sets on a full cement slab which extends a foot beyond the skirting on the sides, 2' in the back and 22' in the front. Do you think I should put plastic down over the cement?
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Yanita
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Hi,

No, do not put plastic down over the cement. You were mentioning moisture concerns so I assumed that you were not on a conrete slab. LOL, guess I should of checked your profile huh.

Have a great day,

~Yanita~
The difference between success and failure is who gives up first!
busybee1952

Yanita, yes, even though I am on a cement slab, I do worry about moisture condensation and such. Maybe once my leaky drains and water pipes are repaired and everything is sealed up with vents installed and all of that, I won't have to worry but so far, I have no idea of how much moisture will just naturally occur underneath. There are 2 x 4's which run along the cement on the perimeter of the home to which the skirting is attached. As mentioned, I plan to install styrofoam behind the skirting as well, but when it rains, I've noticed that some water seeps under the the 2 x 4's. I wonder if I should caulk or something and does caulk hold to cement?
scottman

Busybee,

I have 2x4's going around the perimeter of myhome too. Over that, osb, then Everrock vinyl "stone" siding (We didn't like the osb so we changed directions).

We also get water in a few areas on the concrete when it rains hard, esp along the back where the patio is. We have everything sloped away, but it does get in. It dries in a few hours.

I did use that spray foam where the cracks are. However, now knowing about the "venting" under these homes, I don't knwo how much you want to seal the "outside" from coming in. We added a few (10) vents around the home, which seem to be enough, any water under there doens't last long.

You will probably get the most condensation in the summer, esp when running the air. Concrete is naturally colder than the air. Any small leaks in your ducts, belly, etc, and it will be a lot cooler under there than the outside. Like a cold glass of lemonade on a hot day, you will get condensation, on the frame esp.

My opinion is you will have more condensation under the home. SO you need to put in vents on all 4 sides. See how long it takes for water to dry under there.
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Yanita
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Just to add to eliminating moisture under the home...

Make sure that your dryer vents to the outside of the skirting,

Condensate line from AC exits to the outside as well.

Once all your water lines and drains are fixed, insulation re installed, underbelly material replaced, skirting snug, and proper venting you should be fine.

Have a great day,

~Yanita~
The difference between success and failure is who gives up first!
busybee1952

I don't have air conditioning and probably never will since it's only useful about 1 month of the year here in Michigan but I didn't think about the dryer vent. I always thought it would be a good idea to vent the dryer to the underside to help keep it warm under there in the winter but it never occurred to me about the moisture. No wonder there is more mold on the old underbelly up there by where the dryer is! Duh!

Thanks everyone for the ideas!
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Yanita
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Hi BusyBee,

That is a common misconception.

The moisture from the dryer vent can and will cause alot of issues. As you have discovered, mold and mildew problems, not to mention that the insulation can act as a wick and draw up moisture as well.

If you are uncertain about the dryer vent please start a new thread about it. I think there is something in the Articles links about dryer venting. A few things you might need to know.

Lady, you have a busy summer ahead of you, just keep working one repair at a time, we will be here in the sidelines trying to help you thru it! :D

Have a great day!

~Yanita~
The difference between success and failure is who gives up first!
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