Metal Roof
Moderators: Greg, Mark, mhrAJ333, JD
Isn't it ironic that many of your older single wide mobile homes had a metal type roof and then all the sudden double wides came along with the composition type shingles and all the dealers said this is the way to go instead of the metal roofs. Now, all the sudden owners of mobile homes are removing or laying metal roof (R Panel) over their shingles. My question is does anyone have any DIY expirence that they can pass on to me. What is the best way?
I'm not sure if this should be in the Repair forum or here. I think this would be a repair question. So let's go for it! Hope Yanita doesn't yell at me for it.
DIY has done every combination you can think of. I imagine most ot the roofs performed well. But from a structural standpoint, older single and most double wides with factory metal were not built to handle the weight of plywood and shingles. I know some people have been alright with it but many haven't.
With a low pitch roof, shingles need to be replaced more often than homes with a 4/12 slope. I think the metal roof concept is trying to get something more permanent. A metal roof can certainly last much longer than a shingle roof, but it will still need maintenance from time to time. The quality of the install and the maintenance will determine how long it will last. I figure a good metal roof should last over well 30 years. Aluminum roofs could last longer, depending on how much and how it is walked on.
JMO
JD
DIY has done every combination you can think of. I imagine most ot the roofs performed well. But from a structural standpoint, older single and most double wides with factory metal were not built to handle the weight of plywood and shingles. I know some people have been alright with it but many haven't.
With a low pitch roof, shingles need to be replaced more often than homes with a 4/12 slope. I think the metal roof concept is trying to get something more permanent. A metal roof can certainly last much longer than a shingle roof, but it will still need maintenance from time to time. The quality of the install and the maintenance will determine how long it will last. I figure a good metal roof should last over well 30 years. Aluminum roofs could last longer, depending on how much and how it is walked on.
JMO
JD
☯JD♫
Today is PERFECT!
All information and advice given is for entertainment and informational purposes only. The person doing the work is solely responsible to insure that their work complies with their local building code and OSHA safety regulations.
Today is PERFECT!
All information and advice given is for entertainment and informational purposes only. The person doing the work is solely responsible to insure that their work complies with their local building code and OSHA safety regulations.
CraigE wrote:Sorry, this may should have been under mobile home repair. Not sure!
I think so. A metal roof is a roofing system made from metal pieces or tiles. It is a component of the building envelope. Is that right?
_________________
Fanimation
What got this started is that 5 years ago we had a hail storm and I had the original white shingles replaced with darker shingles. It was during the summer and when I walked into the house the day they replaced them, I knew something was wrong. It was much warmer in the house and the AC was running much more often.
At this point I was stumped. So I called the roofing company to get some insight as to what was going on. No good answers. Upon research of my own learned that darker shingles absorbes much more heat and in turn puts about 5 to 15 degrees more heat into your attic. Since I have no attic (all Vaulted ceilings) the acoustic on the ceiling is warm to the touch on the inside of the house. I want to replace the shingles back with white but white shingles really starts looking badly after a few years. Now leaning towards white metal for longevity. My question is has anyone had metal roofing installed? Did they remove shingles or just lay over them? Thanks
At this point I was stumped. So I called the roofing company to get some insight as to what was going on. No good answers. Upon research of my own learned that darker shingles absorbes much more heat and in turn puts about 5 to 15 degrees more heat into your attic. Since I have no attic (all Vaulted ceilings) the acoustic on the ceiling is warm to the touch on the inside of the house. I want to replace the shingles back with white but white shingles really starts looking badly after a few years. Now leaning towards white metal for longevity. My question is has anyone had metal roofing installed? Did they remove shingles or just lay over them? Thanks
Jack of all trades and master of none.
Hi,
The proper way is to remove the existing shingles. Check over all the roof decking and repair any wood that may be rotten. There are many threads, several recent ones about metal roofing install and the various installations and types of metal.
Yanita
The proper way is to remove the existing shingles. Check over all the roof decking and repair any wood that may be rotten. There are many threads, several recent ones about metal roofing install and the various installations and types of metal.
Yanita
The difference between success and failure is who gives up first!
most tin comes in 3' widths, which wont work with you roof joists that are on 16" centers. You want your fasteners do go down through the existing plywood and bite into the roof joists.
If you cant find tin roofing that will work with a 16" center (ie: 32 or 48" widths) then you need to strap your roof with 1x4.
The way I would (personally) strap my roof would be to run strapping width ways in relation to the trailer (perpendicular to the gutter) down the roof so that I could run rows length ways (parallel to the gutter) down the roof. The first layer will lift the second layer off the plywood roof and prevent water from pooling if any finds its way in.
I would also put tar paper on the roof under the strapping, and then again ontop of the strapping before the tin...but Im a bit of a fusser when it comes to my roof. I hate going up there and working on it, and I hate it even more when water comes in through my roof and wrecks something I just did inside my house.
Thats just my 2 bits
If you cant find tin roofing that will work with a 16" center (ie: 32 or 48" widths) then you need to strap your roof with 1x4.
The way I would (personally) strap my roof would be to run strapping width ways in relation to the trailer (perpendicular to the gutter) down the roof so that I could run rows length ways (parallel to the gutter) down the roof. The first layer will lift the second layer off the plywood roof and prevent water from pooling if any finds its way in.
I would also put tar paper on the roof under the strapping, and then again ontop of the strapping before the tin...but Im a bit of a fusser when it comes to my roof. I hate going up there and working on it, and I hate it even more when water comes in through my roof and wrecks something I just did inside my house.
Thats just my 2 bits
Your very welcome.
I recommend that you check and thoroughly read the post that are written by JD. We consider him our in house roofing expert. Many of his threads have great pics and or links to follow up on.
As with any info, please consult with your local building inspectors as to what they require, insurance company as well. Don't forget that permit.
Yanita
I recommend that you check and thoroughly read the post that are written by JD. We consider him our in house roofing expert. Many of his threads have great pics and or links to follow up on.
As with any info, please consult with your local building inspectors as to what they require, insurance company as well. Don't forget that permit.
Yanita
The difference between success and failure is who gives up first!
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