Greetings again from N.H.
Our small park has 82 units. 61 of them pre date 1975, mostly 12 x 60's. 58 of the 61 have had gable roofs with a 3/12 or 4/12 pitch built directly on top of the MH. Each with a permit granted by the local jurisdiction. My conventional wisdom tells me not to do this to my crown style roof because of the weight, but when I look around at all who have done it in the last 30 or so years, I get second thoughts because I DO want a gable style roof. All the owners have done it without using footings on the sides with posts & beams. The footers, post & beams would hold a roof over nicely but the park owner does not allow footings. Please allow me to list the manner of construction directly attached to the existing flat or crown roofs.
1. 12" high knee wall ( 2 x 6 ) with top & bottom plates that ran down each side roof line of the MH.
2. 2 x 6 rafters, 16" O.C. attached at the peak to a 2 x 8 ridge beam with hardware ties.
3. The rafters then have the "birds mouth" cut which enables them to sit of the knee wall. Also connected with hardware at this spot.
4. Collar ties spanning the 12 feet on every third rafter.
5. The sheathing is 1/2" O.S.B. or plywood sheats.
6. Ice shield 3' up from the edges all around.
7. Fiberglass shingles or metal roofs panels from the Big Box stores.
My point is: These all appear to be just about conventional stick built roofs. They all sit on MH's that have 2x4 or 2x3 exterior walls. All the MH's just have blocks under the rails. No chains No footers.
I want a gable style roof badly. My common sense tells me the weight is WAY TOO MUCH for the home. But when i walk the park each day I am envious of all who have a gable style roof.
Our jurisdiction still grants permits for this construction and none of the MH's have fallen or buckled. Here in N.H. we have harsh winters also. Sorry for being so long winded, but any input is greatly appreciated as usual.
Another roof question
Moderators: Greg, Mark, mhrAJ333, JD
Hi Spongebob,
All we do is give common sense answers here, that might apply to most situations.
If this is something you really want, then look into the process in your area. Like Greg always says, anything can be done with enough money LOL!
Personally, I wouldn't do it to my pre-hud home. I'd go the pole barn route when we're ready. These can be closed at the gable ends to look just like a metal, pitched roof.
Maureen
All we do is give common sense answers here, that might apply to most situations.
If this is something you really want, then look into the process in your area. Like Greg always says, anything can be done with enough money LOL!
Personally, I wouldn't do it to my pre-hud home. I'd go the pole barn route when we're ready. These can be closed at the gable ends to look just like a metal, pitched roof.
Maureen
Never discourage anyone...who continually makes progress, no matter how slow.
'Plato'
'Plato'
Spongebob, I would be very concerned about the support factor of 2x2 or 2x3. you left out one key word when you said that none had buckled or collapsed (YET). I would listen to your common sense. If you really want a new style roof I would design at least a 4x4 support in the walls to hold it up with perimeter blocking. It would be a lot of work but honestly it is the only way that I would even think about it. Yes as I say ANYTHING is possible with enough money & planning. Greg
"If I can't fix it, I can screw it up so bad no one else can either."
Thank you both for the sincere input. Best of all, at present I have no leaks so I am not really in a bind. I'm still happy with my MH.
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