Residing home

[free2bme]

We finally got enough saved up (I hope) to reside our home . It is a 14X70 with a 7X21 tipout .
The outside walls are about 9 feet tall . Right now it is sided with T-ll . The siding on it now is done with one 8 foot section with another foot above that .
I would like to reside in one piece - the full 9 foot . Any suggestions ?
I was thinking of metal siding . We would have to remove all the current exterior T-ll . Would we have to apply exterior OSB and then put up the metal ?
Anything else out there that is at least 9 feet ?
I called to get a price on 9 foot T-ll and it is almost 3X the price of 8 foot . ~~~~~~~~~Vickie in NY

[Greg]

Vickie, welcome to the family. A 9' high panel is going to be about impossible to find and lots of money if you do find something. I would recommend using vinyl siding, it may cost a little more but I personally think it would look much better than the 4' wood panels, plus it lasts a lot longer. Greg

[Yanita]

Hi Vickie,

As Greg said WELCOME to the family.

I'll be the first to admit that I have limited knowledge of tip outs. I would like to caution you about the amount of weight you add to the tip out exterior walls.

Hopefully someone with alot of knowledge about these will chime in here.

Glad you found us,

Have a great day!

Yanita~

[Lane]

Like Yanita, I'm not familiar with tipouts either. It sounds like you really want the T-11 off and, if that's correct, what about Hardiboard? It comes in a variety of styles. It's much more durable and long lasting than vinyl siding. There's pro's and con's to each though.

I believe there's also one (in larger sheets)that looks like lap-siding. If not that, then you can use the 4x8 sheets, and the butted edges are really easy to caulk and feather together for a nearly invisible appearance. Anything outside of metal sheeting will be so much more expensive it's not cost effective. Hardibioard's a bit heavier than the siding you already have on it, but don't think that much, just check thoroughly if you choose to do that style. There are a few precautions to use on the dust when cutting, and special blades, but I really like it on our SW. One person could do it, but I'd suggest at least two people at the job though. It's just easier.

Added supports under the home on the perimeter/outer walls may be necessary with anything you choose. Just consider the added weight when making ANY improvements or even adding a large aquarium (50+gallons) so you don't get a surprise.

Whichever choice you make, welcome to the board and ask away! Everyone's here to help each other. If it's a DIY job, we'll help any way we can. If it's not, we'll tell you, plus things you might need to know when contracting the job.

[Maureen]

Hi there, and welcome to the forum!

I am familiar with tip outs! They used to be very popular out West here. Since you're located in NY, and have 9 foot walls, are you sure that this isn't an addition?

I first have to say that 'tip outs' are a very mobile feature. They are meant to slide out from the main part of the home. I'm not positive that they can be placed on anything permanent.

JD might have a solution for that. I'm sure he's seen a few tip outs in his business. He's the Pro out West here.

I'd make sure that whole home was level first, then go with vinyl siding. I'd get the T-11 off. Most tip outs are pre 1976, pre-huds, with aluminum siding. If you could provide more info about your home and location, this will go a long way in helping you.

Maureen

[free2bme]

Thank you for the welcome . I am not new to the MH forums - I was known as leftey on the old forums .
I really detest vinyl siding . I live out in the sticks and there is normally some pretty rough activity around our house at times such as paintball wars , 4 wheelers , snowmobiles , snow blowers ect . Vinyl siding punctures pretty easily . I know because the last paintball war was across the road and the fellas house didn't fair so well
The tip out isn't a typical tipout . The previous owners couldn't get it to tip in for the move when they bought it and it wouldn't so the tore everything off but the floor and rebuilt it . It is now like a stick built addition with a hinged floor .
Hardiboard is nice but , I believe it is too heavy . I guess I will have to do more digging on a solution to this . I really want one piece from top to bottom . ~~~~~~~~Vickie

[Greg]

Vicky, one other idea I have and I'm not sure how it would look would be pole barn steel siding, I doubt much of anything would damage it. But it could be hard to work with. Greg

[JD]

Hi Vicky,

You did not say whether you would want to use vertical or lap aluminum siding. Vertical aluminum siding are the ~4x8 sheets with the vertical ribs. While this is old school mobile home siding, it is probably the most dependable product and certainly the easiest to install. This type of siding is available at http://www.all-rite.com/aluminumsiding.html.

In my area, 9' siding is slightly more expensive per square foot, but 300% seems very extreme to me. When I install T1-11 type siding, I use SmartSide products. This a Louisiana Pacific product, but it is the product they came up with because of the law suits. LP was not THE bad hardboard siding company. They were ALL bad hardboard siding companies. The newer Smartside products are made with OSB material which is impregnated with zinc borate to resist termites and decay. The finish surface layer is a good water barrier. As with any wood siding, installation and maintenance (paint/caulk) will determine how long the siding will last. SmartSide comes with a 7/30 warranty, 7 years labor & materials, 30 years materials. Read the warranty carefully. As with all warranties, many hoops and disclaimers. It is available in 4x 8', 9' and 10' and in many lap siding sizes. I only use the 4x panels.
http://www.lpcorp.com/sidingtrim/lpsmar ... ature.aspx

Either T1-11, Smartside, or aluminum siding will need a moisture barrier, like HomeWrap. I would think if you will be using aluminum siding, OSB sheathing would be required to replace the strength that the hardboard siding had. Panel siding helps to stop racking and bowing of walls.

Just my opinion.

JD

[free2bme]

Greg - I have thought to use the same metal that we used on the roof a few years ago . We the roof over from Mark's book so we are familiar with working with it . We would still need to apply osb and wrap ? I am not familiar with applying it as siding .

JD - I like the looks and sound of that smartside . I want vertical . Actually another option was to use the 8 foot T-ll and then apply battons to have the board and batton look . I like that look and the extra battons will keep the T-ll from bowing (I think) .
I believe I saw that smartside panelling at Lowes in 8 foot . The price was not that bad as I recall .

Thank you all for your input - I appreciate it

[free2bme]

Just wanted to give an update on our siding . After many phone calls and digging around we had a local building supply store get the 9 foot smartside panels for us . They had to order them special - well worth it though . Not as much as I thought they would be - $45.00 a 4X9 sheet . I'll post pics soon .
Thanks for the tip JD !

[JD]

Hi free2bme,

You are welcome and I hope the project goes well for you. After reading through the rest of this thread again, I wanted to add a couple of more points to your siding job.

First of all, read through the instructions. I know installing siding panels seems smiple enough, but there is a very specific nail pattern, an 1/8" gap where the tongue meets the groove, use of foam tape at the windows, paint instructions, flashing and other considerations.
http://www.lpcorp.com/literature/LP_Sma ... tions_.pdf

I would highly recommend that you do not use the batten strips on the siding. This will often trap moisture behind it and rot the siding behind it.

If you have a vapor barrier, usually clear visqueen, on the interior side of your walls behind paneling or wallboard, I would not use another vapor barrier behind the siding. You don't want vapor barrier on both sides. The instructions for the siding says it requires a vapor barrier, but I have heard of many problems created by having 2 vapor barriers. This may also be a regional problem associated with your local climate. Asking your local building inspector would be the best bet.

Have fun with your project,

JD

[free2bme]

Thanks again JD . There was a plastic barrier on parts of the home underneath the previous siding . We took that off and made nessasary repairs to various areas . Then we put up housewrap . We finished up the backside today and will start on the ends next . Taking out the old bay window in the bedroom and putting in 2 single hung vinyl windows .
The only reason I wanted the batons on the siding was to cover the overlaps but , the overlap on the smart panels is nice and wide - we won't need them . I do like the look of board and baton though .
Our daughter is coming over for the weekend so we may get the paint and let her get some of that done .
I am so happy that we were able to get coverage from top to bottom . I believe it will sturdy up the home and keep it warmer in the winter . I did post a picture in the album of the front of the home .

[troyster]

have you considered Fibre cement board siding-fibre cement board looks like wood but its actually a mixture of cement,sand and cellulose fibres. It can be expensive and hard to work with,but it won't rot,crack or burn, and it does a great job of keeping water away from the inside of your home. You do have to paint or stain it but it holds paint better than most wood siding and it's well rated for the extremes of a Canadian or northern states climate and is designed to last for years to come.

[masswood]

I have used the smartside siding on a shed that I built. It comes primed and ready to paint. Remember to make sure you get the bottom edge real good as this is a place that gets overlooked. good luck

Joe