" WARM" water heater ---

[DannyBob]

Hey, "TEAM" ...


Opened the wall panel yesterday, to do some cleaning (YES: single white boys DO clean!!!) ...

The water heater was "ON" ...

*I* heard the roiling / bubbling noise from the TOP element only...
bottom element felt ( thru the cover panel ) to be COLD ...

??? DO *I* have a BAD botttom element ???

{ *I* have turned the element thermostats down to 120° --- living 'single', *I* dont need to take lots of showers }.

40gallon, -2- element ELECTRIC heater...

*DANNYBOB

[Greg]

It is usually the bottom element that goes first. I would Kill the power,drain the tank and remove the element. you may find that if you have hard water that the bottom of the tank if full of lime, rust & sediment. If you can get it cleaned out great, replace BOTH elements, if not I would look at a new heater.

You should also notice a lower electric bill also, with the heater trying to heat with only one element it will run a lot longer. Greg

[DannyBob]

...Tnx for the tip, Greg ...

NOW: *I* didnt notice an isolation valve in the space ... ??? should there be one underneath ... { *I* knows there is a MAIN iso valve --- even in TEXAS ---}

LOTS of rocks, mud, silt, sand, etc in the water here ... guess getting the tank drained will be the first event.

Which kinda takes me into another unplowed field ::: IF there is only the MAIN ISO valve ... might *I* not be 'smarter than the average Bear' by installing iso valves for the HWH and each of the lines leading to the Baths ( at opposite ends of the trailer ) for use when *I* wanna change-out the CHEEZY plumbings ???

[Greg]

Well as you said, "CHEEZY" plumbing. There is a very good possibility that there is no shutoff. So I guess your first job will be adding valves, at least 3. One inside main shutoff, one on each side of the waterheater. Spend the little extra and buy either Brass Ball or gate valves (the plastic body valves are junk) Ball valves are 1/4 turn, great for a quick shutoff in an emergency. Greg