Torch on
Moderators: Greg, Mark, mhrAJ333, JD
I came home from work today to find my bootroom and kitchen flooded. I was in tears. New flooring. The Terrace weather was calling for snow, but never had a problem. Today the slushy snow piled on the roof of the addition, and then it started raining. Came home to a waterfall indoors, where the flashing is between the two rooms. The flashing was put there by someone with a roofing company, but for free cause he is supposed to be a friend of the family, so I can't even go back on him. We have Torch on that we want to do, but at what temp, and how long do I have to let everything dry first? I hope my uderlay for my flooring didn't soak up too much, cause I don't want to tear it up. Troyster has no simpathy for me cause he knows who I am talking about. The guy was seen peeing off my roof.
Humanity is a parade of fools, and I'm at the front, twirling a baton!
Sorry to hear about your roof kashton. So, if you are using a torch-down roofing (modified bitumen), is it being applied to the original metal roof? The flashing you are talking about, is it flashing to a stepped down add-on room? Depending on how this joint is put together, you may want to reinforce it with plywood. Torchdown can be applied on metal, wood or of course on the built-up roofing materials. I would not advise applying it to a coated metal roof. If there is a coating, you can cover the roof with 3/8" plywood and apply the torch-down to it. Screw the plywood to all trusses. Install a 2" galvanized drip edge metal like would be used on a comp shingle roof. Using a drip edge with a 2 or 2-1/2" side will let the edging hang just past the original mobile home drip rail. This will force rain to freefall away from the edge of the roof. This actually makes for a pretty nice install compared to applying it to loose old roof metal.
How hot is kind of a look at it thing. I would roll the stuff out in the street and cut the material to length before taking it up on the roof. There is also a special mastic the should be used on the edges of the roof. Roll the roofing out on the roof to be sure it is aligned properly, then roll it back up to the starting edge. Wave the torch on the torch-down and on the surface you are applying it to. About 3/4ths the time on the bitumen. Watch the black back surface of the bitumen. It starts out looking like the back of comp shingles, kind of rough and grainy looking. When it is hot enough, it will get almost a shiny smooth look to it. As soon as that happens, it is ready. If it lays down soft and mushy, it is too hot. After you get 5-6 feet of the material rolled out, be sure to come back and get the edge that was under the roll (and not heated) when you started. This is really a 3 person job. One to torch, one to roll the material and one to use a metal roller on the seam edges while it is still warm.
Now for the disclaimers. This is a roof best installed by someone with experience working with torch-down. You are using a propane wand torch, so of course there is some danger. I would get galvanized boots for the plumbing vents and clean all other vents (in good condition) with a buffer and wire brush, removing all coating material. This is not a roof I recommend to my customer's, but I know it is a viable product used by many people. Also, this type of installation will not adhere to installation guidelines from the manufactures. They offer this product to be used on asphalt built-up roofs only. But like I said, I have seen many people with these roofs last 10 years or so. The company I used to work for installed them all the time. I hated them actually.
If you haven't seen it before, there is a torch-down that has a heavy aluminum skin on the top side instead of the common granular stuff you see on comp shingles. I think this is a much better product. Certainteed makes a product called FlintClad. I have used a product from SBS Technologies, but can't find a link to them right now.
One last chapter to my book here. Have you considered using a product like Peel-N-Stick. I have used Eternabond, but it is very expensive. The Peel-N-Stick is a similar concept but lot's cheaper. You can look at that product at this link.
http://www.mobilehomeadvantage.com/sku. ... 121/ID/23/
Much easier, much safer but more expensive than torch.
Hope this helps.
JD
How hot is kind of a look at it thing. I would roll the stuff out in the street and cut the material to length before taking it up on the roof. There is also a special mastic the should be used on the edges of the roof. Roll the roofing out on the roof to be sure it is aligned properly, then roll it back up to the starting edge. Wave the torch on the torch-down and on the surface you are applying it to. About 3/4ths the time on the bitumen. Watch the black back surface of the bitumen. It starts out looking like the back of comp shingles, kind of rough and grainy looking. When it is hot enough, it will get almost a shiny smooth look to it. As soon as that happens, it is ready. If it lays down soft and mushy, it is too hot. After you get 5-6 feet of the material rolled out, be sure to come back and get the edge that was under the roll (and not heated) when you started. This is really a 3 person job. One to torch, one to roll the material and one to use a metal roller on the seam edges while it is still warm.
Now for the disclaimers. This is a roof best installed by someone with experience working with torch-down. You are using a propane wand torch, so of course there is some danger. I would get galvanized boots for the plumbing vents and clean all other vents (in good condition) with a buffer and wire brush, removing all coating material. This is not a roof I recommend to my customer's, but I know it is a viable product used by many people. Also, this type of installation will not adhere to installation guidelines from the manufactures. They offer this product to be used on asphalt built-up roofs only. But like I said, I have seen many people with these roofs last 10 years or so. The company I used to work for installed them all the time. I hated them actually.
If you haven't seen it before, there is a torch-down that has a heavy aluminum skin on the top side instead of the common granular stuff you see on comp shingles. I think this is a much better product. Certainteed makes a product called FlintClad. I have used a product from SBS Technologies, but can't find a link to them right now.
One last chapter to my book here. Have you considered using a product like Peel-N-Stick. I have used Eternabond, but it is very expensive. The Peel-N-Stick is a similar concept but lot's cheaper. You can look at that product at this link.
http://www.mobilehomeadvantage.com/sku. ... 121/ID/23/
Much easier, much safer but more expensive than torch.
Hope this helps.
JD
☯JD♫
Today is PERFECT!
All information and advice given is for entertainment and informational purposes only. The person doing the work is solely responsible to insure that their work complies with their local building code and OSHA safety regulations.
Today is PERFECT!
All information and advice given is for entertainment and informational purposes only. The person doing the work is solely responsible to insure that their work complies with their local building code and OSHA safety regulations.
Well, with that last comment, I have to say this. If the guy can't figure out where to relieve himself, in a proper manner... how in the heck can he know how to repair anything???
I can't say how long it will take until it's dry enough for a proper repair. I'm not familiar with your area. At the very least, get a tarp up there until it is! Weight it down over the home and the addition. This will minimize the damage, somewhat.
Then call a professional in that knows how to flash between an addition and the home. Make sure he's been potty trained also, for your neighbors sake, if nothing else LOL!
Maureen
I can't say how long it will take until it's dry enough for a proper repair. I'm not familiar with your area. At the very least, get a tarp up there until it is! Weight it down over the home and the addition. This will minimize the damage, somewhat.
Then call a professional in that knows how to flash between an addition and the home. Make sure he's been potty trained also, for your neighbors sake, if nothing else LOL!
Maureen
Never discourage anyone...who continually makes progress, no matter how slow.
'Plato'
'Plato'
We have done the torch before, and being applied to original trailer roof and overlap to tin on addition. We are doing a new roof(snow roof or tin roof, what ever you want to call it) This summer, but do not want to deal with another flood before then. I couldn't remember what temp, cause when we did it before, it was the middle of summer.
Humanity is a parade of fools, and I'm at the front, twirling a baton!
My cousin and I got it tarped until the weather clears. Already have a roll of torch-on. Just sitting in the shed waiting to be done. As for the family friend roofer, well, he has left town cause he developed a rather expensive habit besides the drinking one, and has lost his whole family because of it. His company has gone bankrupt too! What comes around, goes around. He got what he deserved! Just one more thing to add to my day. My cats drink out of the toilet, and there is an ant in my bathroom sink! I think the day is over for me!
Humanity is a parade of fools, and I'm at the front, twirling a baton!
Kashton, The problems you are having is the very reason we do not recommend an addition. Unless the addition AND the home are on below frost line footers that will happen. when the ground heaves with frost the home & addition move at different rates and usually in different directions. If you do not have the proper support I would recomend a summer project to prevent this from happening again. Greg
"If I can't fix it, I can screw it up so bad no one else can either."
The weather here has kinda been out of sorts. It decided to snow and rain yesterday. The slush was trapped against the flashing, and had nowhere to go but in. Thanks Troyster, but if you had seen how wet we were, you would have ran home and hid. No wonder I can't get rid of my cold! 
Humanity is a parade of fools, and I'm at the front, twirling a baton!
Don't believe the addition had shifted to leak that bad, and supports are far above expectations for what the home inspector even suggested. Bad weather, and an Idiot on the roof are what I'm blaming this one on.
Humanity is a parade of fools, and I'm at the front, twirling a baton!