1972 mobile washer leak subfloor damage

[redneeckgirl]

I'm doing several repairs for some friends so I'll keep them in different posts to avoid confusion.

**The family is very low income with 4 children so I'm trying to keep the costs low yet effective.

I'm afraid this one is beyond my abilities so any help is loved.
The washer had a leak in intake lines. The washer lines have now been replace but the subfloor is a mess.
I got back underneath the house (the washer/dryer sit just above where I had just finished the outside main intake leak). The subfloor is sagging onto the joists where I can see it, then farther over there are water intake lines, old vents and others that block view of rest of subfloor. From above it looks like the water damaged floor runs under what I believe is a load bearing wall.

Since there are no clean edges for me to cut out the old subfloor out what are my options?

Could we just lay a new underlayment over the old subfloor and screw attach it?
Could I use my spare piece cement board over old subfloor?
Could I build a 'raised' floor like what you'd find as a shed floor?
... with any of these could or should I add L brackets into wall framing to help keep weight off of old subfloor?

For solutions keep in mind this is under washer and dryer so there's alot of action on this floor area.

[Harry]

Hi

I have seen plywood over the old floor but it is not the best repair.

Chapter 3 of Mark's book covers rotten floor repair.

Repair from topside. Cut the flooring out with a circular saw or a sawsall. I'd try to leave the flooring under the wall unless it deteriorated too badly. Replace with plywood of simular thickness. Cover with sheet vinyl.

Good luck

Harry

[Yanita]

Hi,

As Harry said, adding a new sub floor over an existing rotting floor is not a good idea.

Since the flooring is compromised it needs to be opened up and examined for any weak floor joist. Any and all wet insulation needs to come out and be replaced. Although before replacing anything you need to let the entire area dry completely. To not do so will encourage mold/mildew growth.

You mention this has to be done as cheaply as possible. Myself and others understand that, but a repair is only as good as the products and repair methods used. I can promise you if you simply cover the damage with new wood you will incur other problems.

As to having a load bearing wall...if this is a single wide generally most interior walls are not load bearing. There is a possibility of load bearing if the ceiling height changes from one side of the wall to the other...exp...flat ceiling on one side of the wall, cathedral ceiling on the other side.

If the home is a double wide typically any wall that is running perpendicular to the floor joist are load bearing.

[Greg]

Red, Keep in mind that the old floor is made up of sawdust, glued together. The water has disolved the glue so you are left with sawdust, now add the vibration from the washer & dryer and you will have the sawdust falling between the joists. Do the repair the right way once, cut the damaged floor out and lay new plywood in, It's not that hard but does take some time. Greg

[Leaky]

Hellow all. In our '84 Champion single wide, wherever there is a sink or any water source there has been water leaking and I have places to repair. I've been into the flooring once and have been daunted by the way they glue the sawdust down. Any sugestions on removing the old glue? Thanks, Dale.