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Hi Jd ! - Troyster here! I am putting on my foam underlay ( decided to go with it after all ) now my question is can I move window out far enough for me to slip my air & water membrane behind it ( flanges only)without having to remove whole window & flashing behind it ?. also when working bottom to sides with my flashing membrane which is overlapping foam on bottom & sides-should I tuck membrane at the top of window under the foam underlay? thanks-well back to work will post pics tonight
Hi troyster,
So you are using the fanfold foam backing and no home wrap, correct? You were also removing the aluminum siding?
If it were me, I would put the aluminum flashing, like you said, top over sides, sides over bottom, with only the bottom coming out over the foam board. Again, let the bottom flashing hang loose a little longer than the siding course under the window and trim that flashing to fit the clip edge of the siding.
I would also cut the foam board back about an inch from the windows and use Eternabond tape to seal the board to the window flange. Also, are these the original aluminum frame mobile home windows or have you upgraded? Be sure that the windows are absolutely sealed to either the aluminum siding or wood framing. I would even recommend to remove the windows completely, clean off the old putty tape and sealants and reset the windows with butyl putty tape. This stuff is like the standard putty tape except it is a medium gray color and smooth textured, not grainy and white.
If there are the original aluminum windows, install the j-channel trim just to the outside edge of the aluminum frame so the windows can be removed, if needed, at a later date. Seal the windows with window caulk from the siding supplier that matches the color of the siding (PSI Sealants make urethane in siding colors, or I would use Vulkem 116 or other high grade polyurethane, if the color was not too distracting.
Hope this helps. Everyone would like to see pictures.
JD
So you are using the fanfold foam backing and no home wrap, correct? You were also removing the aluminum siding?
If it were me, I would put the aluminum flashing, like you said, top over sides, sides over bottom, with only the bottom coming out over the foam board. Again, let the bottom flashing hang loose a little longer than the siding course under the window and trim that flashing to fit the clip edge of the siding.
I would also cut the foam board back about an inch from the windows and use Eternabond tape to seal the board to the window flange. Also, are these the original aluminum frame mobile home windows or have you upgraded? Be sure that the windows are absolutely sealed to either the aluminum siding or wood framing. I would even recommend to remove the windows completely, clean off the old putty tape and sealants and reset the windows with butyl putty tape. This stuff is like the standard putty tape except it is a medium gray color and smooth textured, not grainy and white.
If there are the original aluminum windows, install the j-channel trim just to the outside edge of the aluminum frame so the windows can be removed, if needed, at a later date. Seal the windows with window caulk from the siding supplier that matches the color of the siding (PSI Sealants make urethane in siding colors, or I would use Vulkem 116 or other high grade polyurethane, if the color was not too distracting.
Hope this helps. Everyone would like to see pictures.
JD
☯JD♫
Today is PERFECT!
All information and advice given is for entertainment and informational purposes only. The person doing the work is solely responsible to insure that their work complies with their local building code and OSHA safety regulations.
Today is PERFECT!
All information and advice given is for entertainment and informational purposes only. The person doing the work is solely responsible to insure that their work complies with their local building code and OSHA safety regulations.
Hi JD, having a hell of a time getting windows out -sealed with that gray putty -butyl or epoxy putty- have all the screws out and cut into putty with utility blade but to no avail -sigh!. plywood that intersects wall with roof is rotten in places will have to cut that out too. Knew everything was going along to good. oh well if it was perfect then I would be puzzled.posting pics now-thanks-later
p.s already installed foam underlay and ran it under aluminum siding that I left around windows because windows weren't coming out
p.s already installed foam underlay and ran it under aluminum siding that I left around windows because windows weren't coming out
p.s already installed foam underlay and ran it under aluminum siding that I left around windows because windows weren't coming out
Sounds like a good plan to me. I would still tape the top of the cut aluminum to the foam board with Eternabond or at least the cheap window underlayment tape from the home stores. You would not seal the bottom though.
Yep. if the windows are installed with butyl, they are very hard to get off. That is why I like the butyl tape so much. Really good stuff.
I bet you got this siding figured out.
JD
Sounds like a good plan to me. I would still tape the top of the cut aluminum to the foam board with Eternabond or at least the cheap window underlayment tape from the home stores. You would not seal the bottom though.
Yep. if the windows are installed with butyl, they are very hard to get off. That is why I like the butyl tape so much. Really good stuff.
I bet you got this siding figured out.
JD
☯JD♫
Today is PERFECT!
All information and advice given is for entertainment and informational purposes only. The person doing the work is solely responsible to insure that their work complies with their local building code and OSHA safety regulations.
Today is PERFECT!
All information and advice given is for entertainment and informational purposes only. The person doing the work is solely responsible to insure that their work complies with their local building code and OSHA safety regulations.
pics are in JD- go to my personal gallery- I am going to pick up some Red Zone self adhesive peel & stick air & moisture membrane tomorrow-its for flashing windows & doors did you say to leave membrane off the bottom of window and only to do sides & top-just want to clarify thats what you meant-thanks JD
P.S- in pic you will notice 3 inch walls are filled up with spray foam - hard to believe this is factory stock from 1973
P.S- in pic you will notice 3 inch walls are filled up with spray foam - hard to believe this is factory stock from 1973
Yeah, don't know if I said that right. The flat metal flashing under the window should not be sealed. It will be cut to end in the middle of the clip of the first full course under the window and just left there. The course that is notched and clipped into the finish trim will hold it where it belongs. The foam can be sealed to the wall under the flashing and the old aluminum siding piece. You may need to block between the studs for some thing to seal to. The top of the (bottom) flashing could be sealed to the window flange with the sticky tape or polyurethane caulk.
JD
JD
☯JD♫
Today is PERFECT!
All information and advice given is for entertainment and informational purposes only. The person doing the work is solely responsible to insure that their work complies with their local building code and OSHA safety regulations.
Today is PERFECT!
All information and advice given is for entertainment and informational purposes only. The person doing the work is solely responsible to insure that their work complies with their local building code and OSHA safety regulations.