pic for JD

[troyster]

Hi JD, I loaded picture into my personal picture gallery. Hope this helps to clarify what we were discussing. Like the old saying goes:a pictures worth a thousand words (lol)

[JD]

OK, now I see. I would leave that eave trim on. You could check it very closely for possible leaks and then paint it to match your new siding, trim or gutter. I think you will find that the aluminum siding will just pull out from under the eave trim when you remove the screws in the siding. I would use just the plain unpainted 12" aluminum (not galvanized steel) flashing that you can get in rolls at the home store and push it up under that eave trim about 3", while still keeping it fairly straight. This will leave a nice backing to seal the vinyl finish trim to and a flashing to the top course of shingles (the best part). Nailing it flat to the studs with roofing nails or better yet, aluminum nails, about a half inch below the eave trim leaving the bottom 8" or so not nailed. The vinyl finish trim should be about 1-1/2" wide, putting the nail holes for it a little more than an inch below the eave trim.

From here you could either install the finish trim up under the eave trim, leaving the bottom edge accessible to insert the siding or you could make a second flashing from the siding, which is what I would recommend. The pattern on the siding looks like 3"oc. If it is 4"oc that's even better. Cutting the siding (just score with a sharp utility knife and bend) at one and a half humps, a whole hump would go up under the eave trim, and then just slightly bending the half hump out to create another drip edge to cause water to drip away from the finish trim of the siding.

Now here is the best part. It might sound hard but it isn't. Before you install the starter track, measure off the wall to where the top course will be 7" tall, if you are using double 4" or single 8" siding. (change all measurements in this post if using 10") This allows you the right amount of siding at the top course to insert into the finish trim and look good. Now, is when that 8" of un-nailed roll of aluminum flashing comes in. Finish all courses up to the last course leaving the aluminum flashing on top of the 2nd to last course. Cut the bottom edge of the flashing to be right in the middle of clip portion of this piece of siding. Your last course of siding will install over it, no problem. Now the flashing is directing any water that gets in at the top into the weep holes of the top course. You want to use this same flashing method over the Ice & Water Shield under all windows too.

The gutter could be sealed up tight under the roofs drip edge or V gutter on top of the section of eave trim.

Again, this is just my take on it. I have installed vinyl siding on several homes and I always incorporate something like this if the home does not have an overhang. The overhang is the best way to protect the top of the siding. Maybe you could install Mark's steel roof at some point in the future.

I made you a diagram of everything above. I think it will help you see what I am talking about. I posted it in My Personal Album because I just found that the upload picture link above only allows a 500x300 pic.

Let me know if you want more clarification on this. We can talk on the phone.

JD

[JD]

I forgot to give you the link for the Vinyl Siding Institute download page. Definitely get the Instruction Manual. Very complete free manual in pdf format.

http://www.vinylsiding.org/publications/

[troyster]

Thanks JD. Like I said I want to do it right the first time to keep the water out. I will look at your diagram and if any problems I will drop you a call. Thanks a bunch for your time. Have a good night.