new exterior walls

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troyster
Posts: 166
Joined: Mon Feb 26, 2007 5:42 pm
Location: terrace bc

Hello fellow mobile homers! I have a question. Next week ( weather permitting ) I plan on tearing off aluminum siding and replacing plywood thats missing. I want to seal junction boxes and utility service holes with low expansion polyurethane foam then seal up with plywood thats missing from structure, then cover corners with 30# felt & seal ,then cover walls with Typar house wrap and seal also with Tuck sheathing tape, then apply vinyl trim and siding. Now I plan on using an eave or drip cap flashing at the top of wall and seal flashing with butyl tape or Grace Vycor Plus. Also when I cut & remove metal siding I plan on leaving a few inches of metal siding at the top, just below the v gutter and sealing it with Butyl tape or Grace Vycor Plus. Now my question is should I install a 4" gutter in front of V gutter and install flashing below it or would sealed eave or drip cap flashing suffice? also would this method of sealing be sufficient to protect walls from moisture damage in the future. Sorry for long winded question but just wanna make sure I do it right.
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JD
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Posts: 2696
Joined: Sun Feb 25, 2007 11:57 pm
Location: Fresno, CA
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Hey Troyster,

To really know how to answer the specific question, it would be good to know what kind of roof you have and how it is connected at the exterior wall. Profiles are good.

It sounds like you have a good general plan on installing the siding. I'm sure you realize that you can evaluate the existing insulation after removing the aluminum siding. From what I have seen, most aluminum sided homes have very minimal insulation.

Now when it comes to cutting the aluminum siding, leaving a small portion to work like flashing. Does the existing siding go all the way up under the drip rail and sealed and attached at the top of the wall? Many homes just have the siding slid up under an eave trim at the top.

If you want to make a type of flashing, you will have a lot of used aluminum siding on your hands that could be cut and bent for flashing.

As far as how the drip edge, gutter, flashing and wall all come together, I would have aluminum flashing of some sort behind the gutter, coming over the top of the vinyl siding. How you install the home wrap and hopefully window underlayment behind all of the flashing and gutter would be very crucial. Be sure to properly flash all windows and doors also (see link below).

Know that if this is a roof without an overhang, when you get edge leaks, that water will make it's way into the wall. Very important to keep the roof leak free.

The way I kind of see this, without a picture to go by, is this siding flap you leave at the top of the wall would be at least 8", or you could install a flashing made from the old siding. This flashing would be sealed behind the drip edge. You would install the home wrap and window underlayment all the way up under this flap or flashing. Nail the flashing down. Install a second flashing that will come down just over the top of the vinyl siding. Vinyl sandwiched between two flashings. It would be best if the second flashing was behind the drip edge but under it and permanently sealed would work. Install and seal the gutter up tight under the drip edge, and then install the siding. Personally, I like the 1/4" fanfold insulating barrier board better than the home wrap. It offers a little forgiveness when installing the vinyl siding and helps hide slight deflections and warping of the wall studs.

Don't know if you can picture what I am describing. I hope it helps.

JD
☯JD♫
Today is PERFECT!

All information and advice given is for entertainment and informational purposes only. The person doing the work is solely responsible to insure that their work complies with their local building code and OSHA safety regulations.
troyster
Posts: 166
Joined: Mon Feb 26, 2007 5:42 pm
Location: terrace bc

I will post picture when i can figure out how-lots of changes here and kind of confusing[/img]
troyster
Posts: 166
Joined: Mon Feb 26, 2007 5:42 pm
Location: terrace bc

Hi JD, cant figure how to post pics so will answer your questions as best as I can. The roof is a galvanized rolled roof with no overhang as is typical of pre-HUD homes. (1973) Roof runs under v gutter tucks behind original metal fascia by about 2 inches or so. The bottom of home is horizontal aluminum siding and the middle is vertical siding that tucks under the fascia also. Sorry forgot to mention I will be using either Grace Ice & Water Shield or Grace Vycor to flash windows & door as this is an self adhering rubberized window & door flashing. I installed foam underlay when I sided addition but the cost and installation time involved and reading about bugs burrowing into foam has me leaning toward the Typar. I have given much thought to the insulation as well. unfortunately the walls are true 2x3 studded and has sealed 1 inch foam only. If I were to remove foam I would have to trim 2x4 insulation to fit 2x3 walls and the difference in R value would not make financial sense. The best would be to get it filled with WallTite blue spray foam which is rated at R-6 per inch (R-18 for 2x3 walls)but this has to be professionally installed and the cost is high.
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Yanita
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Posts: 3369
Joined: Sat Feb 17, 2007 10:16 pm
Location: Eastern N. Carolina

Hi,

Not completely off topic here, but did you see the upload picture link in the top right corner in the reply box?

~Yanita~
The difference between success and failure is who gives up first!
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JD
Site Admin
Posts: 2696
Joined: Sun Feb 25, 2007 11:57 pm
Location: Fresno, CA
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Hey Troyster,

Oooo look! A new upload picture button. I have not seen that before. If you could, please post the pick, if not with that button then in your personal album.

I really need to get a better idea of what the profile is on this 2" fascia trim. You seem to have a very good grasp of what you are doing, so I am not thinking that the answer is just "snap" simple. By now, you have probably got it figured out already. But I would be very interested in seeing a picture.

Yes, the Ice & Water Shield is great stuff. I would use it up under the eave too as insurance in directing any water back to the weep holes of the siding. I know the plan is to not have water back there, but that is what the underlayment is for.

JD
☯JD♫
Today is PERFECT!

All information and advice given is for entertainment and informational purposes only. The person doing the work is solely responsible to insure that their work complies with their local building code and OSHA safety regulations.
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gram2logan
Posts: 91
Joined: Mon Feb 26, 2007 7:48 pm
Location: NW Indiana
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Troyster, please post pics and explain everything you do!! My hubby is going to do the same thing to our home this Spring. He's going to take off the aluminum siding, put new insulation, put plywood sheets up and then house wrap....and then new vinyl siding. Oh, and windows too. It's gonna be a big job and I'm sure I will hear lots of #!*#@ words!!

Of course I will post when he starts the job and I will also provide on-going pictures.

Barb
troyster
Posts: 166
Joined: Mon Feb 26, 2007 5:42 pm
Location: terrace bc

Hi Gram2logan I will post pics when I start project if I can ever find that upload link. Sorry JD its not a true fascia because theres no overhang. not sure what to call it.
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