Replacing Facia & Drip Rail

Repair help for the do-it-yourselfer.
For mobile home parts, click here.

Moderators: Greg, Mark, mhrAJ333, JD

Locked
User avatar
JD
Site Admin
Posts: 2696
Joined: Sun Feb 25, 2007 11:57 pm
Location: Fresno, CA
Contact:

Here is the info you requested. I put it in the forum hoping to be able to insert that drawing.


Hi Tim,

I have heard that metal piece called a J-channel and most times a drip rail. That link I sent to where they sell the stuff, mobilehomedepot.com has a couple of syles of drip rail and a J-rail. I would not use their J-rail. It looks more like the termination bar RVs use where they will use a plastic insert to cover screws. I am also not to crazy about the bigger gutter styles of drip rail. The one you have is best.

Remove the screws from the existing drip rail, you may have to scrape away some sealant to do this. Use a flat bar to lift the edge of the roof off of that damaged fascia. You can replace the fascia with hardboard siding cut into 8" strips but I would recommend using Choice Dek Fascia board, if you wanted to put it back like it is. The CD fascia board is 1/2" x 9.25" x 12' . In my post I said I didn't like the design of screwing the drip rail to the fascia board, because the soft materials and expansion and contraction causes the screws to come loose.

By using a custom trim to go from the drip rail to the fascia board (or to replace the fascia board all together), you get a much better connection at the drip rail. The screws go through the drip rail, butyl putty tape, roof metal, butyl putty tape and then into the framing behind the siding. The custom trim part should actuall be just tucked in just below the screws in the drip rail, and not all the way up in there.

When I get another job like this, I will take pictures. They don't come up that often. I hope this helps.

JDImage
☯JD♫
Today is PERFECT!

All information and advice given is for entertainment and informational purposes only. The person doing the work is solely responsible to insure that their work complies with their local building code and OSHA safety regulations.
User avatar
Mark
Site Admin
Posts: 742
Joined: Sat Feb 17, 2007 4:23 pm
Location: Aberdeen, SD
Contact:

JD,

What a great description and illustration. I hope you don' t mind, but I'm going to change the title of the topic for easier searching by others. Good info like this needs to be found!

Mark
You can't fail if you don't try!
User avatar
JD
Site Admin
Posts: 2696
Joined: Sun Feb 25, 2007 11:57 pm
Location: Fresno, CA
Contact:

Thank you, Mark. By the way, do you have a metal brake / porta-brake? I think one of the regular posters do. I think it was Lane or Hvac. I'd love to have one, but looking for a good used one. I can borrow them from my vinyl siding supplier all I want.

JD
☯JD♫
Today is PERFECT!

All information and advice given is for entertainment and informational purposes only. The person doing the work is solely responsible to insure that their work complies with their local building code and OSHA safety regulations.
User avatar
Mark
Site Admin
Posts: 742
Joined: Sat Feb 17, 2007 4:23 pm
Location: Aberdeen, SD
Contact:

I have a small brake, but it's really too small to be much good for doing facias or siding.

For those who don't know, a brake is a tool that bends metal.

Mark
You can't fail if you don't try!
Greg

JD, I'm the one with the brake. Fall & winter are the time to pick them up, contractors folding up for the winter or going out of buisness. check the rental houses also, they sell off older equipment. Mine had been dropped and they were going to junk it it may not do a perfect job over the 10' but since most of what I do is windows, that size is fine. Greg
flgmtech

Your details are excellent! I can actually make the repairs with more confidence now that you have shown me what the best course of acton is.
I have already gutted the bedroom where the picture you saw was taken. I replaced all of the 2 x 4 wall studs and all reglassed both windows as well as replaced all of the insualtion. I want to next go outside and repair the roof line as you have shown me in this post. I intend on redoing the entire trailer inside and out all the walls, windows, floors, electrical, plumbing etc...
A Giant THANK YOU to all here at Mobile home repair.com
You are all a Godsend!
User avatar
JD
Site Admin
Posts: 2696
Joined: Sun Feb 25, 2007 11:57 pm
Location: Fresno, CA
Contact:

You are very welcome Tim from all of us here at MHR. You will find many knowledgeable people here to help you through all of your projects.

Hey Greg. I want one! I just don't want to spend $1400 on one. I would like a tampco Pro-19. It is the 12'-6" model. Long as I am wishing, I will wish up the cutter and rib maker too for another 600.

JD
☯JD♫
Today is PERFECT!

All information and advice given is for entertainment and informational purposes only. The person doing the work is solely responsible to insure that their work complies with their local building code and OSHA safety regulations.
hvac1000

Great idea. My J channel is rusted and falling apart. I am still deciding weather to go back with the J channel or hang gutters. With gutters I can direct more of the water away but then I will also have to use leaf guard or something to keep the leaves out.
Thanks for the drawing and if I go this route I can hopefully borrow a sheetmetal brake at on of the supply houses.
Locked
  • Similar Topics
    Replies
    Views
    Last post