Heating and Air Ducts

Repair help for the do-it-yourselfer.
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jbmike7
Posts: 2
Joined: Thu Nov 22, 2007 8:57 pm
Location: Lugoff,SC 29078

Hi Their,
I've been reading this Forum for several days and the info I've learned has been real helpful as I own a 1997 Imperial 28x60 manufractured home. Bought it new in 1997 and it's been cool in the summer and comfortable in the winter. It's total electric with a Coleman Furance. I'am wondering if I can get a picture of the layout of the duct work as I can't see it because of the covered under belly. It was explained to me by the set people that the duct work was made up of wood and connected to the vents by a hose!!!. Hard to believe...I figured it was made just like regular duct, with aluminum?. What are ur thoughts about that and the Imperial Homes. Thanks, Mike
Love Your Freedom...it doesn't come cheep...Thank a Veteran for it.
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Yanita
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Posts: 3369
Joined: Sat Feb 17, 2007 10:16 pm
Location: Eastern N. Carolina

Hmmm,

LOL, I will reserve opinion of the set up people, but your duct work is made of lightweight aluminium, unless you have flex duct, which is a hose per se.

To see what you have go to a register and put a bright flashlight down the vent, go to the very next one and put a small mirror into the duct, this will allow you to see what it is and how much debris is down there. While you are looking check for any damages.

Glad you find the site informative.

Look forward to helping you again,

Happy Holidays,

Yanita
The difference between success and failure is who gives up first!
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Demolition
Posts: 176
Joined: Wed Nov 14, 2007 3:07 am
Location: Arkansas
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Being a 1997 model, I am almost going to guess it will be the flexible ducts.
If you have a shop vac with long hose, you can remove the floor duct covers and vacuum some of the junk out. You will find leaves, dust and some pocket change.
Call Dinwiddie Demolition we'll tear that house right down.
Sweep up every splinter n haul it out of town
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Yanita
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Posts: 3369
Joined: Sat Feb 17, 2007 10:16 pm
Location: Eastern N. Carolina

Hi

My home is a doublwide as well, I have aluminium ducts, except the crossover peices are flexible. My sons home is only 5 years old and his is the same. But as MH's go things can be different.

Yanita
The difference between success and failure is who gives up first!
skunkman

Having just found this site this week and I'm in awe of the wealth of info posted here.
I just acquired a 1975 single wide fixer upper that needs lots of elbow grease to make it liveable.
I took a quick look down the heat registers and the dirt, food & grime looks to be about 4" thick. What's the best procedure to replace duct work if it's rusted out?
Archie
Posts: 55
Joined: Mon Feb 26, 2007 5:08 pm

I have found that generally in the older homes if the registers are out in the floor and running pretty much in a row that they are cut directly in the main trunk and come straight up (older single wides). If the registers are along the walls with with possibly a few out into the floors (beds and bath) but not in a row then that would mean they tee off the main trunk with 6 inch ducting (also single wides).

On double wides I have seen they are pretty much the same as my last description except that there is a second trunk for the other half of the home. The furnace sits above the main trunk and feeds that side of the home via 6 inch ducts that tee off. Close to each end of this trunk however is a 6 inch flexible duct that connects the second trunk of the other half. This in turn feeds the 6 inch ducts that tee off of it. Of course there are a few variations to the rule.
Experience is what you get after you need it.
jbmike7
Posts: 2
Joined: Thu Nov 22, 2007 8:57 pm
Location: Lugoff,SC 29078

Thanks to all for ur replys and advice, I will have my wife do as you all have suggested to inspect and clean the vents ( Oh yeah, that will go over well!!!). Again can I get a picture of a diagram of how the vents look?. Thanks again, Mike
Love Your Freedom...it doesn't come cheep...Thank a Veteran for it.
skunkman

Demolition Man, I spent today cleaning the debris out of the heat ducts with my shop vac. I know I sucked up more than leaves, pocket change and dust. I couldn't even identify some of that stuff that came out.

Yanita, thanks for the tip about the light and mirror...a great tip!

Now if someone can tell me the best way to repair the bottom of the bathroom heat duct that has rusted out I'd be grateful. I thought about putting foil tape over the bottom to seal it off but then maybe I need to place some metal over the holes before hand so the critters can't get in. Any ideas?
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Yanita
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Posts: 3369
Joined: Sat Feb 17, 2007 10:16 pm
Location: Eastern N. Carolina

Hi Skunkman,

LOL, I wish I could take credit for the mirror and flashlight trick, but I can't. It is something I learned from Robert our primary heat and air tech here on site.

In all honesty, from what I have learned from Robert it is not always advisable to hire a duct cleaning company to clean our ducts, ours are lighter weight aluminium than traditional homes. I am not a tech so please do not hold my answers in this area as the gospel truth!

As for repairing your ducts that might best be answered in the HVAC forums. Robert or HVAC will certainly give you the best possible repair advice.

Happy Holidays,

Yanita
The difference between success and failure is who gives up first!
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