Water damage repair help

gkoclanis · Sat Sep 01, 2007 2:25 pm

I recently bought a 1979 mfg home which had roof leaks from the J channel down the wall on one side of the house and in a couple of corners on the other side. After removing the interior wallboard and paneling it looks like I have to replace 40 2x4 exterior wall studs and the sill plate under the studs due to rotting. The aluminum siding nailed directly to the studs will have to go also since the fiberboard backing is completely rotted. The roof trusses look fine. I plan to brace the interior wall and then remove the 2x4’s, sill plate and sidiing, replace the 2x4’s and install OSB on the exterior.

My questions are (a) does this sound like a plan that can work, (b) can I brace the wall by building a temporary wall most of the length of the inside the home about 24” from the exterior wall I’m removing and (c) what else should I look out for when doing this project?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

GK

JD · Sat Sep 01, 2007 3:22 pm

Your plan sounds right to me. I might plan on doing smaller sections at a time, using doubled top and bottom plates to be able to splice them together. I would also do an extensive inspection first. With this much damage, you could have water damaged on the ends of the trusses too.

Exactly how badly damaged are these 40 studs? You couldn't cut out the bad parts and sister in new studs as you go?

JD

Yanita · Sat Sep 01, 2007 3:25 pm

Hi,

Can you post us some pics?

Yanita

gkoclanis · Sat Sep 01, 2007 6:14 pm

Yanita, I've included one picture of what was behind the kitchen sink area. The picture doesn't do a great job of showing the rot on the back of the 2x4's against the wet siding interior but you can see the outline of the cripple stud that came out when I removed the wallboard covering it!

JD, I understand doubling the top and bottom plates but can you let me know what you mean when you say to splice them together?

Thanks,
GK

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JD · Sat Sep 01, 2007 10:59 pm

I guess splicing is the wrong word. Staggering the top of the double top plate and the bottom of the double plate, you would be able to work in more manageable sections and insert the sections of wall easier. A 4x4 post can be inserted temporarily at 10'oc to allow sections of wall to be put in.

Looking at the picture, it looks like the wall can be rebuilt to me. But I am looking at a picture and not there first hand.

JD

altasnowman · Mon Sep 03, 2007 12:30 am

Hello and yes you can do it. I have to agree with JD in so far as doing the job in smaller sections.Another reason to do job in smaller sections is do only what you think you can replace in one day just in case it rains. As far as a temporary wall to support the roof line yes you can do one temp wall but if you set up for doing only what you can do in one day then you don't have to work around a large temp wall. Also I would and like JD said check the ends of the roof trusses for rot as well as check the floor for rot and delamination,if floor is showing signs of delamination then replace with 3/4 T&G plywood and if you can afford it try to find treated plywood for the kitchen area. If you can as well use 3/8 sheathing instead of OSB as the OSB will swell if it gets to much moisture. Also the plywood sheathing will be structurally stronger.
As a personal preference I would use treated lumber when replacing old structure but that is just me, as i know it is expensive to do but in the long run especially in the kitchen and bathroom areas it is overdoing it but if you think about it these 2 areas are the worst areas for water damage to develop in.