Ceiling paper and woodstoves

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Ok,thanks.

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Im not puting in no woodstove now but you reckon I can just go thru the wall insted of the roof? I mite be asking to many questions agan.The ceiling is more important rite now. That makes sense about the tar paper.There was sum kind of paper up there.Maybe for a vapor barrier,I dont kno.I just figured I shood try to put back as much I cood the way it was.Im not sure what kind of paper it was.I can get a piece of it from another part of the ceiling and maybe match it at Lowes or sumplace like that.Just wish I knu for sure why its there in the first place.I can see space between the insulation and the metal in other parts of the ceiling and there will be space between the insulation and metal wenever I get dun..I never did understand why the metal is sweting.Cold and warm is meeting sumkind of way I reckon.Maybe wen I get it all back together I can seel it up beter.Im reely apriciating yalls help,surenuff.

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Hey Kritter,

Don't know how much help I can be with your wood stove related questions. We don't install new ones but we do service roofs and ceilings that have them already installed. From what I have seen, you stove pipe will go up into a metal ceiling box and your double/triple wall pipe should go through a "thimble" or other heavy rolled metal flashing. Your insulation and vapor barrier would go right up to these items.

While roofing felt can work as a vapor barrier for you, I would be concerned about air coming through the edges of the felt. But I would think any type of vapor barrier product could work between the trusses. Home wrap, fanfold insulation etc.

The paper you spoke of may be a MH vapor barrier that is usually brown paper on one side and asphalt impregnated paper on the other. There is usually nylon or polyester scrim or netting sandwiched between these two sides. This is 12' wide paper that is laid over the trusses before the galvanized metal roofing is installed.

You may want to look into venting your "attic" area. I know a lot of people will put whirly-birds on their metal roofs, but I prefer gable vents.

Hope this helps,

JD

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There is a special paper used under metal roofs. It is called rosin paper and it should still be available at any good quality supply house that has pre-manufactured metal roof sections. It is used to help prevent rust/corrosion/moisture on the underside of the metal and keeps the metal quiet when it expands and contracts with the weather.
http://www.wrmeadows.com/wrm00074.htm

http://www.crest.org/discussion/greenbu ... 00033.html

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Thanks JD.What do you think about the idea of puting plywood between the trusses.Not over the top but between the trusses at the top just under the metal.Id nail a 2x2 or 2x4 on each side of the plywood them screw it to the trusses.Can you think of any problem that mite coz?

Id put a picture in here but I dont kno how.

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I kno what rosin is.Thats what I was thinking on geting if the tar paper was a bad idea.
Thank you kindly hvac

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Hey Kritter,

If you have 2x4 trusses you could probably put 3/8" or less plywood up there. I would not recommend it at all though. If you have the furring strip type trusses, I absolutely would not nail plywood horizontal to the trusses. The plywood would act as a lever when stepped on and put a twisting stress on the top cord of the truss. It is best to learn to walk on top of the trusses and not between them. Walk from the eave to the ridge over areas supported by walls underneath instead of in the middle of big rooms whenever possible.

3/8" cdx can be stapled to the sides of trusses (bottom cord to top cord) to give them additional strength. This is good for switching from MH ceiling panels to sheetrock to help support the additional weight. It is also how you would repair a broken truss. You do not want to totally cover the side of the truss though. You don't want to block off ventilation.

You might also want to consider just how much time and money you want to invest in a rolled metal roof. When these roofs are maintained properly, they can last 20-30 years or more. Nothing more than the factory build, care when walking around up there and good maintenance is required. But eventually, a new roof solution will have to happen. That would be the time for money and labor. New roofs over old metal roofs are expensive enough. No need putting money where it is not needed.

JD

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I wanting to replace the ceiling panels with 1x12s.Just cuz I would like that better and dont like sheetrock.I can renforce the trusses by runing a 2x4 or 2x6 from top of outside wall to top of inside wall if I was needing to do that.I hav the trusses made of 2x2.Its not a very wide span.Less then half the width of the trailer.Evenualy Id like replace all the sheetrok with pine 1xs.Last question and Ill end this here thred.Do you think this is bad strucsure wise?
Thank yall for all your help.

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Structure wise, a section of 3/8" cdx plywood (approx 60% of the span) fastened to the side of a 2x2 truss would give more strength to a truss than a 2x4 running along the top cord only. By fastening to the top & bottom cord, and any webbing in the middle, you will not only make the top of the roof stronger, you will be ensuring the ceiling (bottom cord)stays nice and straight.

I would think that the pine boards would be fine as long as they are kiln dried and/or very light weight. You could have a lot of air pass through these boards so you may want to use some type of barrier material. I am just guessing here since I have never tried it. I did redo some walls in my Arizona room with the real knotted pine tongue and groove wainscot. The stuff is 5/16 to 3/8 thick, about 4" wide and I think it came 8' long. Very light stuff. The tongue and groove would still breathe, and keep the finished wall/ceiling flat without warping. Pretty cool stuff actually. When installed it looks like beadboard, except you have the character of wood grain and knots. I used a solid gray stain, but wiped it off immediately which left it slightly opaque. Very cape cod looking.

JD