Replacing wall studs and joist band

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J_SEPH0729
Posts: 7
Joined: Mon Jul 22, 2019 2:18 pm

Need some ideas here. I recently found out that because my wifes ex-husband fastened deck to trailer with no flashing the joist band has rotted in places. No problem fixing that as I am over half way done. I noticed in some places that the bottom of the stud has rotted off. We are fixing to get new siding put on, I have already tore the entire deck off as well. My question is where I have replaced that joist band I had to remove a few inches of the sheathing just above it to get the rotted band out. Should there be new sheathing placed in the area so that it overlaps the subfloor and band? I do not want to have to remove the siding completely to have to replace the full sheet of sheething as this is not a done in one day job and leave the outside open to the elements. Also, where the studs are rotted at the bottoms, should the entire stud be replaced or should they be cut off just above the rot say 12 inches above the sub floor then a new 2x4 fastened horizontally at the bottom of that cut connecting it to the next stud, with 2 10 1/2 inch 2x4's vertical connecting back at bottom for support?
mdnagel
Posts: 187
Joined: Thu Jan 06, 2011 12:39 am

I'm about to embark on a similar project (caused by the same ignorant construction by a former owner). I will be watching!

How much of the stud is rotted?

Might be able to shim in pieces of 2x (if only a few inches rotted).
J_SEPH0729
Posts: 7
Joined: Mon Jul 22, 2019 2:18 pm

mdnagel wrote: Tue Jul 23, 2019 10:34 am I'm about to embark on a similar project (caused by the same ignorant construction by a former owner). I will be watching!

How much of the stud is rotted?

Might be able to shim in pieces of 2x (if only a few inches rotted).
All I know for sure right now is 3 inches or so. I just hate to pull off siding exposing however long the siding is from the top to the bottom then it having to sit like that for 2 or 3 weeks. The joist band is no problem to do just a slow go. Do far I have found that a sawzaw with a metal cutting blade works better between the subfloor and band to free it vs. a coarse tooth wood blade. I am just doing 4 foot sections at a time. Then I will screw a 6 or 8 inch 2x6 to a joist to keep from having the seam of the band being in the center of an existing joist.
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Greg
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Joined: Wed Feb 28, 2007 8:01 pm
Location: Weedsport, NY

I would cut the rotted wood off, add a block in and sister the area up with an other section of stud. Piece in sheathing as needed before residing.

Greg
"If I can't fix it, I can screw it up so bad no one else can either."
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