'73 Viking Doublewide - Odd Ceiling Panels Hard to Remove

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73Viking
Posts: 11
Joined: Thu Nov 08, 2018 1:40 pm

Hi Greg and Forum,

I tried to remove one of my ceiling panels in my kitchen..1973 Doublewide made by Viking. I thought OK, this will be just as easy as cutting out sheetrock. I cut away at a small section in my kitchen to test how easy it would be to rip out...it wasn't! Come to find out the faux sheetrock/paper centered-panel can be cut like butter w/my Fein Multimaster, but when it came to pushing all the way thru to complete the short 1ft long cut, it didn't budge. Come to realize after putting my hand up where the old Vent Hood flue opening was, that there is a Masonite-type backing on the ceiling tiles. My ceiling tiles don't have 'plastic splines' rather they are 12 ft long by 1 ft wide and nest into each other on the long 12 seam side.

Question, how do I cut out to remove these beasts? Hate to use a sawzall as there is rickety 2x2 inch roof framing materials up there and Romex just tossed everwhere. A real hodgepodge. How the heck did they frame this mobile home and install the ceilings...did they put the celings on the 2 trailers FIRST and then build the roof?

Lastly, the reason I want to cut out the tiles in spots, I have noticeable ceiling tile bowing in the middle of the living room and from what I have read on the forum, it could be due to my roof weight...2 layers of asphalt shingles with a slight depression in the same exact area that I have the bowing in my living room. I fear broken or bent chords! Or worse, drywood termite damage. I want to open up the ceiling to check out the condition of the rafters/chords before I call a roofer out to do the exterior assessment and bid.

Thanks all, 73Viking
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Greg
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Posts: 5696
Joined: Wed Feb 28, 2007 8:01 pm
Location: Weedsport, NY

Usually they are held up with BIG staples or glued (or both). I would try a drywall saw, you should be able to feel an obstacle on the other side of the panel. Some stud finders have electrical sensors in them so you check the areas with one of them also.

You will heed to get the ceiling open to get a look at what is causing the bow. Remember that weight is ALWAYS an issue with mobile home roofs, If there is already 2 layers of shingles plan on stripping it down to the decking. I would also consider doing a metal roof if it ends up going that far.

Greg
"If I can't fix it, I can screw it up so bad no one else can either."
73Viking
Posts: 11
Joined: Thu Nov 08, 2018 1:40 pm

Many thanks Greg!
I'll do a test cut someplace other than the vent area that is already open. Hope a simple drywall saw will do the job with the new test cut. Just read online that some older units had the ceiling tiles/panels laid out and glued with a backing and glued to external walls and internal walls, then the roof rafters were popped on. So hoping these panels aren't all covered with Masonite on the backside. Will get back to you on findings later this week! Cheers, 73Viking
73Viking
Posts: 11
Joined: Thu Nov 08, 2018 1:40 pm

Hi Greg and Forum...

I should have been working on the subfloors, but curiosity got the best of me and I had to figure out what my 'ceiling tiles/panels' were made of. Sure enough, they have a rigid back...made of what looks like paper-backed 1/4 inch plywood with a 1/2 inch celotex/drywall front-side. They are approx 12 ft long, 16 inches wide and are just stapled up to each bottom cord. I'm not going to get into tearing into them just yet to figure out why 8 or so sag in 1/2 of the living room. See pic.
DSC02095LR.jpg
Now back to sub-floor removal and my learnings thus far on another post. Thanks, 73Viking
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Greg
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Posts: 5696
Joined: Wed Feb 28, 2007 8:01 pm
Location: Weedsport, NY

That looks like a well built ceiling, usually they are just celotex or drywall.

Greg
"If I can't fix it, I can screw it up so bad no one else can either."
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