Reil Rock Skirting - question about install

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amymarie7923
Posts: 1
Joined: Sun Nov 04, 2018 1:03 pm

Mon Nov 05, 2018 9:10 am

Good morning,
I am installing new Reil Rock skirting. I did not buy a kit, I got this from a contractor that had it left over from a job. I have the instructions for install, however I dont see any info on installing vents or an access door. Nor anything about what kind of heat gun to bend it- just says industrial. Any advice/tips/tricks/what to look out for would be appreciated.
We live in Texas- high humidity and some freezes during the winter.
I will be using the current vinyl skirting rails for support and cut Reil for seamless appearance, connecting them with the recommended 1"hex.
There is no framing and I would like to avoid any extra costs. This is not a forever home, but we would like it to look nice. Als, this is our first mobile/manufactured home, (1997 Fleetwood Greenhill model with front and back deck), so I am sure I am not asking all the right questions-please feel free to advise.
I was told to install automatic vents every 8 feet. That would mean 20 vents. Is this really necessary?
Does anyone have experience installing, and what would you recommend?
I see the Reil Rock access door comes at 36" H, but our space is approx 30" H. Any suggestions?
Thanks!
Amy


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Greg
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Sun Nov 11, 2018 6:21 pm

Sorry I missed this.
I have never worked with that style of skirting. I don't know if you could use some type of adhesive to glue to the present skirting or possibly stainless screws.
Heat guns are just that, Industrial blow driers that heat 3-400 degrees. Home centers may have one.
For vents the formula is 1sq/ft of ventilation for every 150sq/ft of floor space. The vents are marked with their space rating. Attaching them could be a challenge depending on the type, again screws or adhesive possibly.

Not sure if these are the instructions you have or not but I found these
https://mobilehomepartsstore.com/erockinstall.pdf

Greg
"If I can't fix it, I can screw it up so bad no one else can either."

Mark440
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Joined: Tue Feb 26, 2008 8:33 am
Location: Anna, Tx

Mon Nov 12, 2018 12:24 pm

All this venting stuff is 'old school' - back before there was school.

https://www.thisoldhouse.com/ideas/craw ... t-question

I look at this the same as HVAC ducting. Bare metal ducting left exposed (not insulated) will draw condensation. The same ducting in the same space with insulation - doesn't.
Opportunity has a shelf life.

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Greg
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Mon Nov 12, 2018 5:21 pm

The "this old house" theory may work if it were an an actual house on a foundation with a cement floor.
Codes in the U.S. require ventilation in manufactured homes at the rate that I previously posted. I have seen frames rusted & joists rotted from moisture.

Greg
"If I can't fix it, I can screw it up so bad no one else can either."

Mark440
Posts: 220
Joined: Tue Feb 26, 2008 8:33 am
Location: Anna, Tx

Sun Nov 18, 2018 11:41 am

Their take on the venting flies against all I have ever been told. But...this wouldn't be the first time where a scientific approach yields an unexpected result. Their methods did include dirt floor cralw spaces covered with a vapor barrier - but they also extended the barrier up (at the sides) to the bottom rim boards. I'm not sure if retro-fitting a crawl space to enclose the sides would be practical. Still, their approach does present the vent as a two-way street.

The biggest hurdle is willingness to apply their recommendations - and then go down under every couple weeks to check for mold. That could get to be quite the pia.
Opportunity has a shelf life.

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