Restudding walls

[Cajun One]

I going to remove the old wood paneling in my MH its a SW 12x65 can i add on the the studs with a 2x4 and also top and bottom plates that way the wall cavity would be about 5 inch for better insulation then after winter I can remove the steel siding and windows install new windows and housewrap and new siding. I know its going to be alot of work for a old trailer but this will be my last move. I can do the interior a room at a time and the exterior in spring time a side at a time. What do you think of that plan??? Would I have to beef up the floor joist also for the extra weight are use outriggers because after it all finished I would like to take off the roof off and put up a gabled steel roof. Any thoughts, comments, are advise are welcome

[Greg]

As I have always said, with enough time, planning and money you can do anything. For the little extra money, I would go with 2x6 outside walls and add parameter blocking for extra support.

Greg

[Cajun One]

If I added a 2x4 in front of each stud that is there would that be close to a 2x6 or do I have remove the old stud and replace with the 2x6 because I would have to add to the top and bottom plate as well correct?????

[Greg]

I think a single 2x6 with top and bottom plates would be stronger than a 2x4 & 2x2 plus it may be easier to work with.

[Cajun One]

Thank you Greg but the problem I have is that I'm trying to leave up the exterior siding for now until spring/ the plan was to remove the wood paneling and do a room at a time with studs and new insulation with vapor bearier. Do you think I can add a 2x6 next to the 2x2 stud and add maybe a 2x4 for the remainder of the top and bottom plates??? That way it would be flush with the 2x6 studs?? Just trying to have some type of game plan thanks.

[HouseMedic]

Technically your top plate would not be working like a full top plate unless your roof trusses sit on them so I would think if you just use the 2x4 as a spacer connected to the 2x2 it would serve your purpose. Your top plate spacer will not be holding up anything so it would not matter. Are you going to put the paneling back up or are you thinking drywall? If drywall you better make sure to support underneath the outside walls.

Ron

[Cajun One]

I was thinking of maybe OSB and bead board or 1/2 drywall . Could I use adjustable outriggers instead on perimeter blocking because I would have to put pier below the frost line in IL. If it's to much of a problem I will just put bead board up. Your thoughts

[Greg]

That would work, Mark has them in the site's store.

Greg

[Cajun One]

I was thinking of the outriggers would I need one on each joist or every other one, are would I need to put a 2x8 under the floor joist say in a 12 ft. span then the outriggers about 4 ft. apart

[yakima4$]

At the locations you add outriggers make sure there is a cross member between the I beams at the bottom of the flange. If there is not a cross member between the I beams the I beams may twist do to the load pushing in on the I beams. Also with the increased load you will need to add additional support piers under the I beams.
Make sure all window and door openings have support piers each side of these openings at the rim joist on side walls or you may end up with doors and windows that do not work properly.

[Cajun One]

Thats sounds like a lot of work and expense that it might not be worth the afford maybe just adding new insulation and bead board would be the best way to go. If I added perimeter blocking I would have to have the piers below the frost line correct??????

[yakima4$]

Contact several local home installers and ask them how deep they go if home has metal skirting?
How deep if home has a concrete block skirting/foundation?
Allot of this will depend on how much heat on average is trapped under the home during the winter.
Contact your local BLDG Dept. They may have a brochure/flyer they hand out on setting homes.
Ya don't want to put out allot work to find out it was all in vain.

[Greg]

It would be at least below the frostline. Check with the codes officer and work with him from the start.

Greg

[Cajun One]

So if I went with the adjustable outriggers on the perimeter walls so I can replace the insulation and paneling with bead board . The question that I have is how much of a span that will have to have between outriggers??? The next question is do I need to put say a 2x8 or a double 2x8 under the rim joist and the floor joist the whole length of the trailer then put the outriggers every 4 to 6 feet apart. I know I would have to have cross members on the bottom flange of the main beams to stop twisting

[Greg]

I would sit down with the codes officer and talk things over with him. You may or may not need a permit he could say for sure. And if you do need on he would be the one to sign off on it that things were done right.

Greg