What kind of caulk do you recommend for trim?

nestsman · Thu Jun 18, 2015 6:10 pm

I was using some adhesive caulk today, which contains no silicone, to caulk around the door trim of all the doors. I found it very hard to work with, almost crumbly, and I think I'm not using the right kind. It did say on the package it was good for trim and baseboards. Is the 50/50 acrylic and silicone much easier to work with?

What is your favorite brand and type?

Thanks!

1987Commodore · Thu Jun 18, 2015 9:59 pm

It sounds like the caulk you have is old, and almost dried out.

nestsman · Thu Jun 18, 2015 10:42 pm

It wasn't almost died out, but it was hard to work with. Is the 50/50 acrylic and silicone much easier to work with? What is your favorite brand and type?

Greg · Fri Jun 19, 2015 6:31 pm

Silicone is about the only caulk I use. this is another area that you don't want to cheap out on.

Greg

nestsman · Mon Jun 22, 2015 1:36 pm

But silicone caulk can't be painted or sanded, right? So how do you use silicone in baseboards and door trim?

Greg · Mon Jun 22, 2015 7:37 pm

I don't caulk Baseboards, but you could either use a clear or put a bead on the bottom before you put it in place and use it more a gasket.

Greg

HouseMedic · Wed Jun 24, 2015 9:34 pm

I would agree that the caulk you have is old. It should have a date stamped on the bottom. If it is going to be painted make sure you sand down any part that needs sanded first, then us a latex caulk. I use "Alex" paint and trim caulk. It is the green letters on a white tube.

Ron

Mark440 · Tue Jun 30, 2015 3:32 pm

In the course of doing commercial/residential drywall and painting, I learned caulking is as much science as it is art. I don't recall ever using a non-latex caulk - at all. The thing to note is that caulking is not an adhesive. It is not glue. It is a filler and sealant for non-porous surfaces. Applying latex caulk to unfinished wood is useless. It will not fully seal - and will ultimately fail in this function.

The standard 'off the shelf' "haley" latex caulk at the big box stores should meet any and all needs except those applications in which 'caulking' is probably not the right product to be using in the first place.

Most caulking fails due to surfaces not being prepared properly, the surfaces are not secured properly, or inadequate application. If you have a large crack or crevice to fill - use styrofoam backer rod for the primary filler - then caulk over that.

And if you want to get the nicest, prettiest caulking results: your finger and a wet t-shirt are all that is needed (never mind those goofy little plastic things!). Apply the caulking, wet your finger in the t-shirt, move your finger across the caulking with moderate pressure that will force the caulking into groves and fissures while at the same time pushing the excess out to the sides. Wet your finger often as the water will keep the surface of the caulking workable longer - but don't over do it. Now go back and wipe off any excess with the t-shirt. Try to keep folds or wrinkles of the t-shirt out of your intended seal.

Rule #1: If, after smearing out your caulking, you have none at all on your finger - you probably didn't use enough.

Rule #2: If, after smearing our your caulking, you have more caulking on your finger than on the work, you used too much.

FWIW - regular old masking tape is great for getting nice straight lines at window/door trim. Apply the tape making sure that inside edge is down good and tight. Then apply a very, very thin layer of caulk and smear it out to razor thin. Now paint. As soon as you have painted - while the paint is still wet - gently pull the tape away at an angle. Using tape like this works just as well for tubs and showers (just clean the surface with isopropyl alcohol).

Lastly - if you are good with a paint brush - you don't have to necessarily wait for caulking to dry before you paint over it. Apply the caulking - then generously apply the paint using long, light strokes to thin out runs. If you used tape, pull the tape. You're done.

The only danger in using tape with caulking is during the removal. If you do long, long sections be aware and alert where the painted side of the tape is as you pull it down. Have a trash can at the ready to discard the painted tape.