Bouncy Floors

Repair help for the do-it-yourselfer.
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jimncheryl
Posts: 52
Joined: Fri Dec 20, 2013 1:12 pm

We have a 2006 Karsten, the flooring system plain sucks. I have been working on it off and on between plumbing leaks and many other repairs for the last year.
We have 3/4 particle board on 2x6 joist on 21" centers yes there is a lot of give when just walking on it.
I have stopped all of the floor noise with either shims or most of all over 250 special screws from the Squeeeek No More company ( a very good product) for those that have not used that system.
I also found these supports, this is a you tube video for anybody that has already discovered this system. I made my own from 2x4's and 1x4 cross braces it works but it will take a lot of time.

Jim

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R_OF9KgWhzI
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Greg
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Joined: Wed Feb 28, 2007 8:01 pm
Location: Weedsport, NY

I can't help but wonder how solid 2x6s cross blocked and screwed between the joists would test.

Greg
"If I can't fix it, I can screw it up so bad no one else can either."
jimncheryl
Posts: 52
Joined: Fri Dec 20, 2013 1:12 pm

Greg,
Not exactly sure what you mean.
I am screwing 2x4s to the sides of the joist and screwing 1x4s in an X pattern to the 2x4s.
I am trying to copy the video, it's a lot of work, but on the sections I have completed the floor seems considerably more solid.
Shooting nails from a framing gun would be 10 times faster, my concern would be over time they would become lose as most nails do.
Any method that would be quicker and as solid would be preferred.
Thanks
Jim
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Greg
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Joined: Wed Feb 28, 2007 8:01 pm
Location: Weedsport, NY

My thoughts would be that by fitting solid 2x6 blocks tight between the joists. That would take all of the twist out and should transfer any load to adjacent joists. It works on paper!

Greg
"If I can't fix it, I can screw it up so bad no one else can either."
jimncheryl
Posts: 52
Joined: Fri Dec 20, 2013 1:12 pm

Greg
I had a hard time understanding your opinion on this mater. I reviewed that video many times and came to the conclusion, you made a good point. I believe your thought was solid 2x6 blocks instead of 2x4" with 1x4 cross pieces would be equal if not stronger. I tried it on 2 sections, mind you I have no way to measure deflection, but from the top it feels equal and much easier to make.
The only problem was fastening to the joist, I do not like nails as they have been the source of most of the problems in this home.
I then stole a concept from the marine industry (old fashion wood boat builders) for maximum strength in a given situation use vertical grain applications .
I bought a 2x12 and cut it in lengths equal to 2x6 or 5.5" and fastened those to the sides of the floor joist, again fastening was a problem, I used carriage bolt for this, seemed to work fine, the section that I did with this method feels good, still no way to measure deflection.

I tried a different approach, there are many pictures of joist made from manufactured wood or as we call it OSB,( I love this stuff ) . I purchased 2 sheets of 27/32 sheeting it was marked with this indicator " strength axis this direction", cut them in 5.5" lengths by 48" wide I used 2"x 10
deck screws aprox every 6 inches. Much easier to fasten and work with under the home. I did this on both side of the floor joist in another section and found I could feel the difference with out a doubt. I then did this on the entire living room floor, wow this is how it should feel.

We had some guest over that have been in this home several times and have always commented on the springy floor. We did not say anything to them about what I did under the home. Yes, they noticed the difference immediately and ask if we had someone come in and put a new sub floor in. I now will do the remaining joist with OSB cheaper and easier to work with.
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Greg
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Joined: Wed Feb 28, 2007 8:01 pm
Location: Weedsport, NY

Glad you found a system that works. Can you post some pictures?

Greg
"If I can't fix it, I can screw it up so bad no one else can either."
jimncheryl
Posts: 52
Joined: Fri Dec 20, 2013 1:12 pm

Greg;
I spent all day yesterday putting the insulation and the vapor barrier back , did not get done till about 1800 pdt.

I will finish up the remainder of the house sometime in Feb. It will take me that long to recover, I am old and overweight and have spent most of the month of Jan. under this damn house and there is not much room to work.

To anybody that complains as I have about what contractors charge to work under a mobile home, try it yourself. For me to do this for anybody I would charge enough so I could retire rich, and only have to do it once.

I have another question about the particleboard sub floor, covering with vinyl, ceramic, or hardwood, the best method and or product.
We need to replace the vinyl in the kitchen and bathrooms and the carpet in the rest of the house.
I would like to do it my self as I am on a fixed income. I am looking to the alternative to carpet and sheet vinyl that will be successful over this darn particleboard .

p/s when I start the rest of the undercarriage I will try to get some pictures ;

Jim
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Greg
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Joined: Wed Feb 28, 2007 8:01 pm
Location: Weedsport, NY

I know what you mean by tight work area,

If you do have partial board sub floor I would recommend sealing it with something first. Water turns it to mushboard.

Vinyl, wood or laminate are the best choices. Ceramic is NOT recommended, your home does flex and move slightly. Ceramic doesn't.

Greg
"If I can't fix it, I can screw it up so bad no one else can either."
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