Re-roof a Roof-Over?

Repair help for the do-it-yourselfer.
For mobile home parts, click here.

Moderators: Greg, Mark, mhrAJ333, JD

Locked
rockncountry101
Posts: 79
Joined: Sun Mar 11, 2012 3:56 pm

Thu Sep 18, 2014 6:19 pm

Here's how my roof over was done:

My home is 16 feet wide. On each side the contractor put 3 lathes down. One at the ridge, one on the eave, and one in the middle. He used regular ag panel (tx rib, classic rib, imperial rib, etc). I was told by several people that it needed a maximum of 2 foot centers. Mine would be 4 foot centers because of only 3 lathes per side. In between the lathes and the metal panels he used 3 inch fiberglass insulation with a vinyl backing. I asked him why he didn't use R-panel. He said that since my house was newer that ag panel would suffice. Now granted I think ag panel looks better. But he used R-panel on my parents' house because it was an "older" trailer. It also seems quieter when it rains than mine does. Some folks talk about double bubble insulation but I wasn't too crazy about that. Does it sound like this guy knows what he's talking about? And could I ever have someone else come in and redo it the right way?


User avatar
Greg
Moderator
Posts: 5683
Joined: Wed Feb 28, 2007 8:01 pm
Location: Weedsport, NY
Contact:

Thu Sep 18, 2014 7:18 pm

As far the type of panel, it may be what ever had the best price for him. You could add more laths under it, but I don't think I would move the existing ones so you could reuse the screw holes in the panels.

Greg
"If I can't fix it, I can screw it up so bad no one else can either."

User avatar
JD
Site Admin
Posts: 2690
Joined: Sun Feb 25, 2007 11:57 pm
Location: Fresno, CA
Contact:

Tue Sep 30, 2014 5:44 pm

I am thinking that if the R-panel was a better panel, it would be better for your home. The Ag panels definitely need 2' o.c. support, minimum. From time to time, we may need to walk our roofs to seal or install stuff. There is no way to walk a roof with 4' centers and not bend up the metal. If the metal ends up with a belly between lathes, you will probably end up with a chronic leak problem. Since the lathe needs to be screwed to the trusses, there really is no short cut way of correcting this without removing panels. And as Greg was referring to, I would not want to end up with a bunch of caulked up holes to give me grief 5 years from now.
☯JD♫
Today is PERFECT!

All information and advice given is for entertainment and informational purposes only. The person doing the work is solely responsible to insure that their work complies with their local building code and OSHA safety regulations.

Locked