leaking hot water heater, desperate for help!

Repair help for the do-it-yourselfer.
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concretegardenstx
Posts: 12
Joined: Wed Nov 09, 2011 5:15 pm

Hi guys, hoping you can help

I noticed water leaking from the wall and I come to find out that the water heater is leaking. The water was leaking from behind the thermostat panels, so I turned off the water to the house and the electric, and I read that a lot of times the lower heating element fails and is corroded and leaks. So I changed out the lower element, turned on the water, then I see that there is water leaking out of the top of the tank, and filling up the inside so it was coming out of the thermostat panels. I thought the water was leaking from the pipes but it's actually welling up from both the inlet and the outlet. I''ve had a very FML kind of week, and I don't have money for a plumber, so I'm hoping maybe one of you can help to advise me?

Also, isn't there supposed to be a water shut off for the water heater? I didn't know if it would be located under the house, since the access door is on the "outside" of the house. I use quotations because the previous owner added an addition to the back of the house, so the water heater access is actually in the new part. I'm trying to figure out how to get under the house to look, but that's a different story.

Thanks for any help you can give!
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Greg
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Posts: 5696
Joined: Wed Feb 28, 2007 8:01 pm
Location: Weedsport, NY

You are right there SHOULD be a shutoff valve for the hot water, but the reality is that most manufacturers don't put one in. You will have to shut off the main (usually under the home) and install on your self, And as long as the water is off you should install an inside main shutoff also. Make sure you use a Brass or stainless Gate or ball valve, don't use a plastic valve or a stop valve. They tend to fail when you need them the most.

It sounds like it is time for a new heater unless you can get very lucky and just have a leak at a fitting.

You will want to get some fans in there and get things dried up as soon as possible to try to prevent more damage.

Greg
"If I can't fix it, I can screw it up so bad no one else can either."
ponch37300
Posts: 622
Joined: Tue Nov 11, 2008 6:12 pm
Location: wisconsin

I had to put my own shut off valves on the water heater when I replaced it. Over the last few years I've installed shut off valves on every fixture in the house.

How old is this water heater? If it's around 10 years old I would suggest just replacing it.

Otherwise some pictures would really help to try and figure out where the water is coming from. If it's leaving puddles you should be able to track it down. Dry everything off and see where the water starts showing up again. Try to see if water is coming out around any fittings and running down.
jpingram5
Posts: 205
Joined: Sun Dec 05, 2010 5:34 pm
Location: Orefield, PA
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Welling up around the inlet and outlet? Is this a specific mobile home water heater that feeds off the side or is it just like a standard electric one the has the connections off the top? Pictures would be great.
2009 Skyline Sunwood Premier 14 x 80
concretegardenstx
Posts: 12
Joined: Wed Nov 09, 2011 5:15 pm

I've attached a picture of the tank. Sorry it's not the best. The best way I can think to describe it is that the nipple? area where the pipes attached is ever so slightly recessed, and there is maybe a black gasket between this area and the body of the tank itself. Basically, there is enough space between the pipes and the top of the tank for me to know that the water is coming up from inside the tank and not coming down from the pipes/fittings themselves, though there is corrosion. Water is inside the tank where the insulation and everything is, which is where water was coming from before. But before I didn't notice water coming off the top, only from the thermostat panels, so I don't know if something else went wrong.

Would air in the tank cause this to happen? I didn't have a hot water faucet open anywhere when I turned the water back on.

I gave up trying to look under the house for a shutoff valve and installed one where you see the grey plastic coupling, so at least we have running water until this weekend.

It's a Richmond tank with a 6 year warranty which I am sure has passed (since we've lived here for 4 years). I think we have given up hope on it, just going to get a new tank this weekend, or figure out if we can afford to go tankless. Going to do some more reading on the forum, but if anyone can offer any insight I do appreciate it!
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CountryLiving34
Posts: 44
Joined: Sun Sep 11, 2011 9:12 am

This is exactly how my hot water heater looks. I simply found it easier to replace the whole tank. I purchased mine from home depot for $237.00 in 2012 ( GE 40 Gal. Medium 6 Year 4500 Watt Double Element 240 Volts Electric Water Heater) and had a friend do the installation for me. :)
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Greg
Moderator
Posts: 5696
Joined: Wed Feb 28, 2007 8:01 pm
Location: Weedsport, NY

Since your unit is Electric I would stay with an Electric tank. You really need Gas for tankless, and the price difference between the two would require a lot of water use age to make the payback cost. Add in running a gas line and it would take even longer to pay for it's self. Do the math and do your own figuring.

Greg
"If I can't fix it, I can screw it up so bad no one else can either."
concretegardenstx
Posts: 12
Joined: Wed Nov 09, 2011 5:15 pm

Thanks for all of the feedback and advice, after a lot of mulling it over we're just going to get another electric tank this weekend. I'll be so happy to be able to run the dishwasher again :)
mattjslaunwhite
Posts: 25
Joined: Thu Mar 27, 2014 8:19 am
Location: nova scotia, canada

didi my whole bathroom last week and replaced the tan, mine was leaking on the bottem weld. dont know how long it was leaking for but there wasnt much floor left, thankfully i was ripping up and putting new floor anyways. took about 20 mins all in all to hook up the new tank,
"The only thing impossible is being impossible itself" - my life motto
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