Water heater maintenance

Repair help for the do-it-yourselfer.
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ponch37300
Posts: 622
Joined: Tue Nov 11, 2008 6:12 pm
Location: wisconsin

I'll be the first to admit that I'm a procrastinator and while I'm a firm believer in preventative maintenance sometimes my stuff gets put off. We have crappy water. We have a nice filter on our drinking water but don't have room for a water softener or whole house type filter. Our water heater has been making some gurgling noises for a while now, it's about 4 years old if I remember right. Last year I flushed it out by just draining it and then running some water thru it. It got some sediment out but I knew there was still more crap in there. Our water hasn't been as hot as it once was and it runs out faster then it should for a 30 gallon heater. So yesterday after lunch with the family I had some free time and it was rainy outside so I figured this would be a good time to try to tackle the water heater issue and figure out what was going on.

I have been thinking about this for a while and trying to figure out the best way to get all the sediment out of the bottom of the tank. I bought some rubber plugs from lowes, http://www.lowes.com/pd_139554-37672-88 ... facetInfo=. I found one that fit the end of my shop vac hose. Then drilled a hole in it and used a two sided barbed fitting, http://www.lowes.com/pd_77341-104-LFA29 ... facetInfo=. I used a 3/8" ID hose and fitting but I'm going to make up one with a 1/2" ID hose. The 3/8" plugged up a lot. I used some clear vinyl tubing, http://www.lowes.com/pd_443064-104-LSVG ... facetInfo=. But I think I'm going to pick up some of the stiffer plastic tubing, not sure the real name for it but it's a frosted white color and is stiffer then the vinyl but still flexible. The vinyl tubing I had bent to easy so it was hard to position and push it around inside the tank. I ended up using one of my electrical fish sticks and taped the tubing to that to keep it somewhat stiff so I could push it around inside the tank. I use these fish sticks for all sorts of things and they come in handy all the time for uses other then pulling wires, http://www.amazon.com/Greenlee-540-15-G ... +glow+stix. I also found this on amazon and will probably order it sometime since it's only 9 bucks with free shipping, http://www.amazon.com/Micro-Vacuum-Atta ... se+adapter.

I started out by shutting off power to the water heater. Then testing the water heater to make sure the power was off, safety first! Next I tested the heater elements. Mine has an upper and lower element. From online searching I read that it should be 10-16 ohms on the meter. Mine were just over 16 ohms so they should be good. To test them just set your multimeter to ohms and touch one lead to one screw on the element and the other lead to the other screw, doesn't matter which lead to which screw. My elements had a film or something on them so I'm going to replace them since they are under 10 bucks each.

I drained the tank by hooking up a hose to the drain and opening the valve. My valve was plugged and I had to turn the water back on to get some pressure to blow out the clog and let the heater drain. Another thing I need to do is replace that cheap plastic valve on the bottom with a nice valve. After it was drained I unscrewed the elements and took them out. You will need a 1 1/2" socket for this. I have one made for water heater elements and they are about 8 bucks at the store, http://www.lowes.com/pd_159985-135-9008 ... facetInfo=, but any socket should work. Once the element was out I was able to see all the crap in the bottom that just flushing your water heater will not get out. This wasn't just a little layer, it was over an inch thick of crud.

I went to work with my homemade shop vac adapter sucking out the crud by sticking the hose in the hole for the bottom element. It kept plugging up so I turned the water back on a little to keep a little water in the bottom of the water heater which really helped with not clogging, the water helped to push the crud thru the hose. I just kept "poking" the hose down and pulling back up and that seemed to work the best. Spent about an hour with my daughter helping and we finally got it all out. There is still a tiny bit left that I think is clogging the drain valve because I tried to flush some water thru it and I had to fill it to get some pressure to push the last bit out the drain valve. I'm going to drain it again after I buy new elements and I will also replace the drain valve with a nice one that shouldn't clog as easy. Our water is a lot hotter then it has been. I haven't tested if we have hot water longer but with 4 girls in the house I'm sure it will be tested very soon!

Here are some pictures of my homemade tool and the crap that came out of this. Hopefully this helps someone else and you can do some preventative maintenance on your water heater to keep it working at it's best and help prolong it's life span!

Water heater element
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Drain valve
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Element socket
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Hose adapter taped to fish stick
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Close up of adapter
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Adapter in shop vac
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Small part of the crud that I sucked out, there was a LOT more but this is just what I saved for a picture!
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Greg
Moderator
Posts: 5696
Joined: Wed Feb 28, 2007 8:01 pm
Location: Weedsport, NY

About 15 years ago before the park we were in went on public water, I would pull the heater out, remove the elements and take it out on the lawn and flush it. Fill it on it's side, roll it around and drain it.

Greg
"If I can't fix it, I can screw it up so bad no one else can either."
ponch37300
Posts: 622
Joined: Tue Nov 11, 2008 6:12 pm
Location: wisconsin

I couldn't believe how much crud was in there. I knew we didn't have the best water but didn't know it was this bad! I think taking it outside might have been easier. I had all the connections undone but started with the shop vac and just kept going. Maybe next time I will just take it outside, although after some trial and error the shop vac adapter worked out pretty good. I know we're on city water but it obviously isn't that good.

It's heating better and hot water lasting longer so the women in the house are very happy!
DaleM
Posts: 385
Joined: Wed Apr 07, 2010 10:07 am

Replace the original drain valve with a full flow ball valve. Plumb that down and out so you can flush the water heater with a quick turn of the valve. Easy to do once a month for a few minutes, it will keep the build up to a minimum.
ponch37300
Posts: 622
Joined: Tue Nov 11, 2008 6:12 pm
Location: wisconsin

DaleM wrote:Replace the original drain valve with a full flow ball valve. Plumb that down and out so you can flush the water heater with a quick turn of the valve. Easy to do once a month for a few minutes, it will keep the build up to a minimum.
I had planned on switching to ball valve but didn't think about just dropping it right out the floor. The pressure relief is ran right out the bottom so might as well do that with the drain also. Thanks for the suggestion.
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