Total Remodel - Project 2: Kitchen (Thread 2)

Repair help for the do-it-yourselfer.
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JeffInFL
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Previous posts: viewtopic.php?f=6&t=10193

It's been a while since I've done anything in the kitchen. We recently bought 2 new cars and didn't have much in the budget to do anything else. Plus, motivation has been non-existent.

We finally decided on going with cabinets from Ikea. Mainly, because we can buy just the cabinet frames first, which are very cheap. This will allow us to at least get SOMETHING done, and we'll buy doors and hardware as soon as the budget allows.

I've gotten pretty good with the Ikea 3D kitchen planner tool, and we came up with the following layout:

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The countertop will be Ikea's lighter colored wood counter. I've read a lot of reviews, and it seems like it's ok as long as it's sealed and taken care of.

I'll post some follow-ups with comments on cabinet assembly, installation, quality and whatnot.
jasonsdad
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we did a total gut! including removing sub floor and laying plywood before solid hardwood...geez and now i want to leave...

anyway, we did ikea kitchen cabinets, got frames first as money allowed and then doors...we're still not done....happy with the cabinets though! love the soft closure, it's quiet.

kristin
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JeffInFL
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Got the 4 base cabinets put together and set it place for a test fitting. Ended up with 1-2" of space between the cabinets and stove, and cabinet/wall and fridge. I don't think we could have cut it any closer.

The Ikea cabinets were really easy to install, and seemed to fit together really well. I opted to staple the backs of the cabinets on using 5/8" brads in my staple gun instead of the 1" panel nails that came with the cabinet. I hope they hold up. By the time we got to the 4th cabinet, we felt like pros and put it together in minutes.

Image

The cabinet under the window is pushed forward a bit in the pic .. I still need to drill holes for the water and drain pipes
ponch37300
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Looking good. I've never used Ikea cabinets, we don't have Ikea around here. How do the face frames get attached to the carcasses? I would slide the cabinet between the stove and wall over to the stove, I like to leave a 30 1/8" gap for the stove. Then just use a filler piece of wood between the cabinet and the wall. Then you can order the counter top to fit between the stove and the wall.

That piece of glass makes me really nervous!
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JeffInFL
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The cabinets are faceless .. basically the door covers the entire cabinet front. Interesting point about the stove gaps .. Once I get the cabinet to the right of the stove mounted to the wall, I'll have a better idea of gaps around the stove.

The glass is from an old dining room table .. it's heavy and sturdy and has been our temporary countertop for the past few months. As long as the dog doesn't decide to jump up there ...
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JeffInFL
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The only problem I've faced so far was swapping the fridge and stove locations at the last minute. Initially, the fridge was going to go where the stove currently is, without the cabinet to the left of the stove. The stove was going to go where the fridge currently is. I was going to extend the stove outlet under the floor to the new location.

Before doing the most recent layout in the Ikea design software, I decided against moving the stove. I wasn't comfortable with changing the wiring, and I'm too cheap to hire someone to do it. So we decided on the current layout.

Before putting the cabinets together, I moved the fridge and realized the only available outlet is going to be above the counter, about a foot away from the fridge :( Had I thought about this before putting the drywall up and finishing it, I would have ran wire for another outlet to go behind the fridge.

Maybe if I ever get around to replacing the old aluminum siding, I'll wire up a new outlet from outside.

Moral of the story: When remodeling, make sure you have outlets where you need them!
ponch37300
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I added a ton of outlets to our kitchen. Also added wiring for under cabinet lights, a dishwasher, and a garbage disposal.

If you just need to add an outlet one or two stud cavities over they make drill bits like these, http://www.homedepot.com/p/Klein-Tools- ... /203913339. I have one an love it. It takes a little to get used to using it and controlling it but it's amazing how it lets you drill "inside" your wall. If your outlet needs to be moved over 12 or so inches then it should only be one stud cavity which this drill makes pretty easy to do.
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JeffInFL
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Interesting .. I was considering cutting a hole in the drywall behind the fridge so I could fish some wire thru the existing work box to the new location, and then install a work box and outlet. I THINK there was room between the stud and aluminum siding for the wire to fit.

On an unrelated topic, are there any lightweight, cheap panels that I could put over the existing ceiling? There's a few areas where the popcorn is all messed up from where the old pantry and upper cabinets were, and I figure covering the whole ceiling would be easier than trying to repair and make it blend in.
ponch37300
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Location: wisconsin

One option is ceiling max, http://acpideas.com/index.cfm?XlinkID=13. I've used it before in basements and even did a few schools with it. It's a little expensive but nice to work with and you only loose about 1 inch. Home depot sells it.
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JD
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If this is true popcorn texture on sheetrock, it is pretty easy to remove. Just spray is with water and tiny amount of dish soap (to soften the water) with a bug sprayer. Give it a couple of minutes and it scrapes right off. Messy work but you can cover everything with cheap poly painters tarp. When considering the cost of new ceiling panels, it might be cheaper to hire a texture guy to just repair what you have.
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All information and advice given is for entertainment and informational purposes only. The person doing the work is solely responsible to insure that their work complies with their local building code and OSHA safety regulations.
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JeffInFL
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I'm not a big fan of drop ceilings, but the ceiling max product does look interesting (and probably beyond my budget).

I'm not sure if it's actual popcorn texture on sheetrock, but I'm pretty sure it is. I know it is in the 2nd bathroom, since some areas got scraped away somehow. Maybe I'll just scrape everything and roll on some new texture. We did the living room walls in a texture similar to popcorn but more low profile, using Homax dry mix.
ponch37300
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JeffInFL wrote:I'm not a big fan of drop ceilings, but the ceiling max product does look interesting (and probably beyond my budget).
Then I would do as JD suggested and try scrapping a small area and see how easy it comes down. Hopefully it will come down good and then you will have a fresh canvas to do as you please.
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JeffInFL
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Image

started putting trim up around the kitchen ceiling, getting paint on the walls, and replaced the old plastic strips that hide the seams in the ceiling with some 1x4's that were painted to match what we have in the living room.

It's hard to tell in the pic, but the wall color is sort of a bluish-grey, maybe like a slate blue. The cabinets will be dark brown, and the backsplash tiles are these:

Image

Got them for $7 each at home depot.
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JeffInFL
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Got the wall cabinets mounted this weekend. The Ikea stuff is easy to work with .. just screw the mounting rail into the wall studs, and hang the cabinets on the rail. The rail is easily cut to size with a reciprocating saw.

Upper corner cabinet:
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All upper cabinets assembled:
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Corner cabinet hung:
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All the wall cabinets hung:
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Everything in place:
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The cabinet under the window is sticking out because I need to cut holes for the sink plumbing. I'm really pleased with the cabinets. The rail makes them simple to install and level. Cost was our #1 factor in choosing these. We are starting off by just buying the frames, which are really inexpensive. I think for everything you see, we're under $500 so far. As budget allows, we'll get the doors, toe kicks and other random pieces, along with shelves and drawers.

This is what we started with, after moving in:
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