Plastic or Metal?

Repair help for the do-it-yourselfer.
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jimncheryl
Posts: 52
Joined: Fri Dec 20, 2013 1:12 pm

Greg

The tube has not cracked.
All the fittings are white either plastic or maybe nylon, all the homes with problems have the same fittings.
Absolutely no metal any where, that is why I choose the metal Sharkbite fittings.
There are no crimp rings.
Jim
ponch37300
Posts: 622
Joined: Tue Nov 11, 2008 6:12 pm
Location: wisconsin

jimncheryl wrote:We have Blue for cold water and The Red for hot water. The tubing itself did not crack just the white fittings.
I just checked the ones I cut out there are NO metal crimps they have plastic type crimps or maybe you call them compression fittings.
I will try to post more info on those with some pictures, I am having trouble with the pictures right now mostly the size, they show the correct size on my computer but when I try to upload the size increases dramatically, I know the problem is a setting or two on my side.

Those fittings are not available in our area and as the plumbing shop explained , even if they where I would not be able to use them, I would lose a few inches for each fitting and tubing would not reach.

One possible explanation was the fittings on the hot water side expand and contract at a much higher rate as to the cold. So far we have had two cold water leaks at the fittings and six on the hot water side.

On another note in the mobile home park we live in there are at least 5 other home with similar problems.

My neighbor to rear told me he could not understand all my problems with leaks. His home is two years older and he has had no problem.. Last month he said he was watching TV with his wife and they heard a sudden hissing noise and thought it was on the TV, well short story, a plastic fitting under the sink let go, they caught in time to shut off the water before any damage. He now has Sharkbite fittings under the sink

On another note all these homes are the same manufacturer, built with in a couple years of each other and all plumbing was done at the factory. 2 of the homes have been repaired by the builder, others have not because we are not the original owners.

Here in Ca. Sharkebite fittings are approved for no access and under ground applications.
I have spent thousands of dollars repair the damage to the particle board floor, the sections I have replaced I used 3/4" OSB installed with silicone and screws.

Jim
I highlighted your whole issue above in RED. They used plastic fittings instead of the metal pex fittings. Not sure what you mean by plastic crimp rings. If these are compression fittings that also would explain a lot. There is NOTHING wrong with the metal pex fittings and metal crimps, either the solid or the "cinch" type. These work great and I've never ever had a leak with them or know anyone who has. Sounds like the manufacturer used a cheap fitting in your home to save a few bucks and now you are paying the price. Hopefully you can get the pictures posted so we all can see exactly what you are dealing with.

I don't know why the pictures come out so big. I posted a couple the other day and had the same issue. The easiest way to post pics is to use a photo hosting site like photobucket or any of the many others out there. Once you upload on that site they have an option to embed in forums and you just copy and paste that code from there onto here. Really easy once you get the hang of it.

I'm also not understanding the not enough room once you cut an inch off the pex? Take for example the undersink plumbing. You can cut your pex an inch shorter and then put a new pex fitting on and use flexible braided steel lines to go up to your faucet. Plus most pex is pretty flexible so losing an inch isn't going to make a huge difference. Can usually just pull it up a little. I've even added new pex on with a coupling fitting and a length of new pex if I needed some more length.

I have nothing against sharkbite fittings other then to use them in a whole house is really expensive. They work good for a quick repair here and there. But I've been using the metal PEX fittings and solid metal crimp rings for 10 years plus now and have made thousands of crimps with zero issues. So PEX with the correct fittings and crimps is very reliable. In my opinion more reliable then sharkbites since it's an actual crimp and not just a piece of spring steel holding the pex in the fitting. I know you have had a lot of problems due to pex fittings leaking but it wasn't the pex fittings that caused the problems, it was the manufacturer cutting corners and using cheap plastic fittings that caused the problems.

Hopefully you get all the bad fittings out and replaced with sharkbite fittings or metal pex fittings and not worry about any more leaks.
jimncheryl
Posts: 52
Joined: Fri Dec 20, 2013 1:12 pm

I found this on the net,,, these are what we have !!

http://www.pplmotorhomes.com/parts/rv-p ... ttings.htm


http://mobilehomedepotmi.com/mh_catalog1/flair-it.html


I agree they used improper products at the factory

Thanks
Jim
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Greg
Moderator
Posts: 5696
Joined: Wed Feb 28, 2007 8:01 pm
Location: Weedsport, NY

OK Problem solved!!! If the line ends up a little short, you can crimp on a coupler and add some tube. Then crimp the proper fitting to connect where you need it.

I have no idea what someone was thinking using plastic, the only thought I have is $$$$.

Greg
"If I can't fix it, I can screw it up so bad no one else can either."
ponch37300
Posts: 622
Joined: Tue Nov 11, 2008 6:12 pm
Location: wisconsin

jimncheryl wrote:I found this on the net,,, these are what we have !!

http://www.pplmotorhomes.com/parts/rv-p ... ttings.htm


http://mobilehomedepotmi.com/mh_catalog1/flair-it.html


I agree they used improper products at the factory

Thanks
Jim
Wow, I've never used those but they just look like they would leak! Found this youtube video on them, http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=04DsT2WRJF0. Did you replace the Tee fittings in the floor joists? Hate to have a leak down there. When you are replacing these with shark bite fittings are you cutting off an inch or so of the PEX tubing? I can't tell how much the fitting flares the tube from the video but if it flares it too much I might be concerned about the PEX being deformed and may cause issues with the new fittings.

But those aren't real PEX fittings. Real PEX fittings are very reliable. If you have a bunch more to replace in your house you might want to look into buying a crimper and using them. Once you have the crimper the fittings and crimps are a lot cheaper then shark bites. If a bunch of neighbors have the need maybe all go together on the crimper, or you buy it and borrow it out for a few bucks. Just an idea.
jimncheryl
Posts: 52
Joined: Fri Dec 20, 2013 1:12 pm

Wow that's a good video those are the ones installed by the factory.
First picture is under the sink, the small blue line is from R/O system to the ice maker.
had lots o mold to clean up.
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jimncheryl
Posts: 52
Joined: Fri Dec 20, 2013 1:12 pm

More Floor pictures

Repaired
I have more pictures to show a lot more steps.
The floor joist are 2x6 on 21 inch centers and run parallel to the side rails, which left no support under a 400lb refer
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1987Commodore
Posts: 383
Joined: Mon Oct 25, 2010 9:53 pm
Location: Steuben County, NY

Wow, no wonder you have issues! Use brass connectors, with stainless steel crimp or cinch rings, with the proper crimp tool for whichever type ring you use. I don't see how all those plastic connectors could be kept from leaking! Then, if you have any stress on that hard plastic fitting, as you will have with the pex curving off toward the fixtures, the joint is going to crack eventually. Do a search on a home center web site for pex fittings, you'll see that the brass fittings are also cheaper than the plastic ones. I think a 5 pack of brass elbows is like $7.59, and I've seen the plastic ones at that or more, EACH. Also, you get real metal shutoff valves, which are sooo much better than the plastic. It does look like the brass compression fitting under the floor may be ok, but I bet they aren't cheap.
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Greg
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Posts: 5696
Joined: Wed Feb 28, 2007 8:01 pm
Location: Weedsport, NY

When it comes to valves use either brass or stainless valves, use either a Gate valve or Ball valves. Don't use stop valves, they use a washer that can disintegrate over time and you won't know until you need to shut the valve.

Greg
"If I can't fix it, I can screw it up so bad no one else can either."
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