What kind of shims for leveling?

ponch37300 · Mon Apr 22, 2013 9:35 am

I releveled the trailer last year and was able to use the shims that were there already, just adjusted things as needed. But was thinking last night if I needed to add a support or was setting up a MH what kind of shims do you use? They only bigger wedge type shims I find locally are cedar shakes. Which from what I know are a softer wood, are these good for supporting a MH? Or do you have to use a hardwood shim and order them online? We have a MH store about an hour away so it's probably cheaper to just order online then pay gas to drive there. I've thought about getting some shims just to have around in case they are needed but not sure what kind to get.

Steve-WA · Mon Apr 22, 2013 10:08 am

1987Commodore · Mon Apr 22, 2013 4:04 pm

Hardwood is best. You could cut them yourself from a board.

JD · Mon Apr 22, 2013 4:46 pm

Actually, hardwood shims or HUD approved alternative is a code requirement. The correct shims are available through almost all of the mobile home parts outlet and probably available through Mark here at mobilehomerepair.com. Pretty cheap actually, then you have the right shims. If your existing shims are in good shape, you could also buy 1 1/2" thick pier pads (HUD approved through the same outlets) to make up the thickness and the shims to dial it in.

ponch37300 · Wed Apr 24, 2013 4:48 pm

Thanks JD. I'll have to order some. I wish I could find some in one of the box stores around here but all they have is cedar, pine, or plastic.

TheCakerator · Fri May 24, 2013 2:46 pm

How do you guys level your own MH? We had someone out for an estimate and it was going to be quite costly ..

Greg S · Fri May 24, 2013 6:39 pm

To level your own home all you need is a water level, a 20 ton hydraulic jack and the inclination to do it yourself.
You can find instructions on the Internet to make your own level.

ponch37300 · Fri May 24, 2013 10:11 pm

Like mentioned already you only need a water level and 20T bottle jack. I got my level at home depot for about 25-30 bucks, think they also sell them on this site. I got a bottle jack at harbor freight for around 40 bucks. Another member mentioned getting a concrete mixing tub from HD for about 7 bucks to drag everything around in, well worth the money. Crawl under the trailer and get readings from all the piers. Figure out what has to go up and what has to go down and adjust. The hardest part is just crawling around under there.

TheCakerator · Fri May 31, 2013 1:27 pm

Hmm .. This seems like a serious job .. Does it require a lot of knowledge in mobile home repair? Are there usually cracks in the drywall on the inside you need to fix after you level it? Is it safe doing it with just one person?

Greg · Fri May 31, 2013 5:11 pm

It's as safe as you make it. The way that I do it is to first plot all of the piers on paper, then go under and do the measurements of each pier as a +/- relative to the starting point (I usually start in the center and write it on the beam next to the pier). Once you get you readings on the paper you can see easily what needs to be done.

If you have any piers that are tipped block the area up near it for support and straighten up the pier. Always try to work on the outside of the beam, that way you have an out should something go wrong.

Greg

Steve S. · Fri May 31, 2013 7:40 pm

I am going to level my MH this summer for the first time since I bought the place in '96. I've already measured some of the piers with a water level before my knees gave out but I can see that one end of the home is over 1.5 inches lower than the middle.
Beware of some of the so-called "hardwood" shims online. I bought some advertised as oak but they are definitely not oak...looks like poplar(aspen) to me. Technically that is a hardwood but pine is just as hard/dense as poplar. I should make some of my own shims from the oaks or hickories on my property. Nevertheless, I'll give the poplar shims a try.
I don't really want to spend $40-50 on a 20-ton jack, so I'll see if I can rent one at one of the local hardware stores. Doesn't look like too difficult of a job...like Ponch said the hardest part is crawling around on your knees in a dirty, dusty environment, and banging your head on the outriggers. I've got the parkside vinyl skirting which has lots of perforations for air movement so I can see pretty well underneath with full sunlight...I don't have to remove any skirting panels.
The water level is a pretty amazing tool to use and I've found many uses for it besides leveling the MH.

Greg · Fri May 31, 2013 8:11 pm

You could cut shims out of hardwood pallets too.

Greg

TheCakerator · Fri May 31, 2013 9:58 pm

Must be because I haven't read the online instructions for leveling homes but this is all confusing to me ..

our cement pads are in the ground and then cement cinder blocks with wood shims sit on top of the piers .. is that what you guys are all working with as well?

Greg · Sat Jun 01, 2013 7:29 am

That's the most common style. If you want to spend the time you can get your home within 1/8" of level by proper re leveling. You would be surprised how far off many homes are, it is not uncommon to have some 2-3" off.

Greg

Greg S · Sat Jun 01, 2013 11:01 am

The last home I leveled was 12" low on the back half at one corner. They propped doors open inside with rocks. Once finished leveling it took 6 months for the frame to settle down on some piers due to the twist in the frame..
As far as buying a proper jack for $20 I consider that a expense well worth every cent. It's the equivalent of one restaurant meal or 3 at McD. You can use it multiple times for many uses in the future. Personally I would by 2 and make the job faster and easier.