Ductwork Under House

Post all other heating and cooling questions here.

Moderators: Greg, Mark

Locked
HouseMedic
Posts: 342
Joined: Fri Apr 06, 2007 9:14 am
Location: Delaware
Contact:

I have a modular home 23 x 40 that was made in two haves and then set on a block foundation as a craw space.(approx. 3.5ft) The ductwork is completely shot and I am going to replace it. The original was aluminum 3 1/4" x 14" run on both haves with a crossover duct. Do you think I could run one line down the side with the heater and just use 6" round to go to the other side right to the registers? I also would like to know about using something like 8" ductwork for the main since finding the original size is hard to come by. Any thought or info would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Ron
User avatar
Yanita
Moderator
Posts: 3369
Joined: Sat Feb 17, 2007 10:16 pm
Location: Eastern N. Carolina

Hi Housemedic,

Welcome to the site!

I am sure there are plenty here that will answer your question, but you should also post it in the HVAC forum. Robert is pretty much the man with the info on HVAC.

~Yanita~
The difference between success and failure is who gives up first!
User avatar
Greg
Moderator
Posts: 5696
Joined: Wed Feb 28, 2007 8:01 pm
Location: Weedsport, NY

Ron, I am going to try moving this to the heating section. Robert is better versed in this type of question. Greg
"If I can't fix it, I can screw it up so bad no one else can either."
User avatar
hvac1000
Posts: 292
Joined: Wed Feb 28, 2007 9:19 am
Location: Cincinnati ohio

((The original was aluminum 3 1/4" x 14" run on both haves ))

You need to maintain the same number of main square inches of duct. You now have a total of 183 square inches of duct. That is both sides times two.
Our homes are marginal at best on duct work supply for forced air furnaces. You will need to maintain the duct exactly the way it was originally installed to maintain the number of square inches and for even heat and A/C distribution. Smaller flex ducts will not work because you are tapping just the one duct at it does not contain the required number of square inch area to service the home.

It would be best to use the same layout as the manufacturer intended but I would seal the new duct with sealer to protect form loosing air at the seams. Usually the factory does not seal the duct.

Good luck with your project and that duct size you have should be available from the HVAC supply house.

Do right so you can enjoy your home in comfort.
God, grant me the serenity
to accept the things I cannot change;
the courage to change the things I can;
and the wisdom to know the difference.
User avatar
hvac1000
Posts: 292
Joined: Wed Feb 28, 2007 9:19 am
Location: Cincinnati ohio

Woops. Greg would you move my answer also. Thank you.
God, grant me the serenity
to accept the things I cannot change;
the courage to change the things I can;
and the wisdom to know the difference.
User avatar
Yanita
Moderator
Posts: 3369
Joined: Sat Feb 17, 2007 10:16 pm
Location: Eastern N. Carolina

Hi Guys,

I am not Greg, but I will put this in the HVAC forum.

Apologies HVAC for not mentioning you as an HVAC person. LOL, since the new site I have not had time to follow the HVAC forums.

Here we go..

~Yanita~
The difference between success and failure is who gives up first!
HouseMedic
Posts: 342
Joined: Fri Apr 06, 2007 9:14 am
Location: Delaware
Contact:

First, Sorry for putting in wrong area. Thanks for moving.
HVAC1000 Thanks for you response. I guess I will be putting it back the way it was. I just didn't know if it could be done another way. I can get the ductwork made but so far I have checked four supply houses and no one has that size. I am going to check more in the area where my home is located, there is allot more manufactured homes in that area. I guess it doesn't matter if it's galv. or aluminum. The original was aluminum. How about where the register branches come off the main duct they just used the joist cavity, Should I or could I use some size of duct work for them?
Thanks again for your help.
Ron
User avatar
hvac1000
Posts: 292
Joined: Wed Feb 28, 2007 9:19 am
Location: Cincinnati ohio

Galv is actually better that aluminum. You can use takeoffs from the main trunk line to the hole. If it is a tall takeoff you may have to cut it down to fit.
God, grant me the serenity
to accept the things I cannot change;
the courage to change the things I can;
and the wisdom to know the difference.
User avatar
Robert
Moderator
Posts: 6413
Joined: Wed Feb 28, 2007 12:07 am
Location: Tennessee

I just wanted to add that if you go with galvanized, be sure you seal and insulate the belly tight and keep that way.

If you get any tears or openings, it increases the warm air contact to duct and creates sweating.

That will cause rust to form on the main duct if galv. .

Thanks,
Robert
Some people are Humbly Grateful, while some are Grumbly Hateful.................... Which one are you ?
HouseMedic
Posts: 342
Joined: Fri Apr 06, 2007 9:14 am
Location: Delaware
Contact:

Robert, Would you try to find aluminum duct? Or just use the galvanized and completely seal the belly?

Ron
User avatar
Robert
Moderator
Posts: 6413
Joined: Wed Feb 28, 2007 12:07 am
Location: Tennessee

Whichever is available and affordable. Galv. must be sealed up tight in belly and remain that way to prevent rust formation.

Aluminum is easier as it is what is there and meets same design factors, so nothing changes.

Thanks,
Robert
Some people are Humbly Grateful, while some are Grumbly Hateful.................... Which one are you ?
HouseMedic
Posts: 342
Joined: Fri Apr 06, 2007 9:14 am
Location: Delaware
Contact:

Hi All,
I am finally getting to the ductwork. I still have some questions tho.
Attached is a drawing of what I am pretty sure was the way that the original ductwork was. I am not sure where the crossover duct was connected. Should it be under the heater or moved up the duct? I guess I am going with the 3 1/4" x 14" main ducts but I think I am going to add take offs with 6" round going to the original floor registers. Other then the crossover duct position in the picture do you see anything that I should change? In the picture the ducts are light blue and the cross over duct is orange. My heater is in the middle with a circle drawn around it. Do you think this will be sufficient?

Thanks,
Ron

If you need to see the picture larger http://www.thehousemedic.com/images/Bea ... worklg.jpg

Image
User avatar
Robert
Moderator
Posts: 6413
Joined: Wed Feb 28, 2007 12:07 am
Location: Tennessee

Hi Ron,

Between this heat wave running me to death and buying a new home and having to work on current one and the new one, I'm behind on the questions some.


Anyway, the a/c went on new one and with it at 100* every day, gotta have a/c to work over there,LOL.


So, give me a couple days to look over the drawings and I'll see how it looks.


I can tell ya the crossover runs beneath or very close proximity to the furnace and then over to other half.



Thanks,
Robert
Some people are Humbly Grateful, while some are Grumbly Hateful.................... Which one are you ?
HouseMedic
Posts: 342
Joined: Fri Apr 06, 2007 9:14 am
Location: Delaware
Contact:

Thanks Robert,

I know how it is to get very busy. We are having the heat here also. It's been killing me at work also. Of course when it's this hot all the work is always outside and never in the AC.

I was also wondering if it would be better to run just one trunk duct and just run longer 6" round duct over to the back rooms. The modular is on a block crawl space and it will not be separated anymore. Would this be just screwing things up?

Thanks,

Ron
Locked
  • Similar Topics
    Replies
    Views
    Last post